Just bought the rough country 4 inch suspension lift kit does anyone have it or heard any reviews on it coming in this week will post pics when done
What do you think of the rigid led grill and light bar combo
to be totally honest, i have a 3" level on the front of my truck... and it looks alot more beefy in the pics from that post, it could be because of the tires hes running... mine are stock size, but i am digging the look of it!! but to be honest, if youre going to do it... whats another 2"? i would just go for the 6" lift if its around the same price.. and since its rough country aka "Rust country" what we call it here (we have alot of salt, i live on an island) i would Por-15 the S,hit out of it just to make sure that it stays looking new
I'm doing 4 instead of 6 because I like the wheel well gap. I'm leveled right now with 33's and if I go with the 4" and 35's I'll have the same gap size just sitting up a little higher.
All done have to get new tires and rims cause the back spacing is off and my tires are to wide and it rubs pretty happy with it though any ideas on what to do next?
Take a picture of where the tires rub, you may just be hitting the pinch weld. A sawzall with a good metal cutting blade and a cordless drill will fix it.
Stoked on how it came out though 4 wheel parts is installing 4 new pro comp rims and wheels for me tomorrow so they don't rub but the quote says its for 305's it had to do with the backs pacing on my rim and the width I guess they're 10's and I need 8 inch wide
I hope they're bigger though gunna look sick
It almost looks like the inside of the rim is hitting your spindle if thats even possible. You dont need a narrower rim you need a more negative offset to widen your stance. I would find out your wheel specss and your tire specs and post them up here.
Exactly what I was going to say. It's hitting the spindle so you need more negative offset. Wheel spacers will take care of it, but if you want to go wider on tires you may want a wider wheel anyway.
Don't buy rough country went to 4 wheel parts with the specs rough country gives on wheels that will fit and they ordered me some they didn't fit went back a second time with a larger wheel still didn't fit so now I have to spend 2700 on 20 inch rims that won't rub
It has nothing to do with the lift. The problem is whoever ordered your wheels the first time fukt up and didnt order wheels with the right offset/backspacing. If a shop did it they need to eat the cost, if you ordered the wheels then its on you.
I know this is an old post but I am looking through the forum and wanted to reply to this. Whom ever installed your lift did not swap your tie rod ends. Your rim is rubbing on the tir rod end. On this lift you have to swap tie rod ends from left to right and visa versa. If you do this, you will have no rubbing. I just installed this kit and the install instructions call for this change.
Do the new tie rods come in the lift kit? I ended up getting 20 inch rims and now they don't rub although there is a lot of squeaking when coming to a stop and a slight ticking noise when I am turning
You use your stock tie rod ends. Just swap sides. The rubbing could be your brake dust shield. Clicking not for sure. Could be that you have a cv joint going out in one of your front drive shafts. Just a guess though.
You could use wheel adapters . The the issue is the offset and back spacing. The post it in the fitment specs. It's because the suspension is literally bowed and causes certain rims to cause the issues your mentioning. I'm running 18" wheels with the 6" RC lift and 35s but I had to get the pitch weld mod done.
You need to have at least 4.5-5"!back spacing and -12 offset. You don't have to get 20s or spend a pound of cash to make it work. But I would look at the back spacing on the wheels you have now. The 33s should clear because I was running 20s on my KC posted in their gallery the red alert one. But I also added a 3" body lift as well.
Does it rub at full tuck and are you sure it's the rim?