I'm about to install some HIDS I just bought and have a few questions.
I noticed the bulbs are in a plastic container, Do I take the round casing around the bulb off prior to installation?
Also does the spade connecters power the hid kit itself? ( yes i read the installation guide )
Heres my step by step in my head, correct me if i'm missing any steps.
Remove fender liners, Take old bulb out with the harness, I then put HID bulb inside. This is where I get confused, Do the spade connectors go to the ballast or the wires dangling from the bulb? Also do any of the wires dangling from the bulb connect to the ballast?
When you disconnect the old lights, it will make sense. The spades connect to the same wires as the old bulbs (They are sending power that went to the headlight to the ballast.) Trace that wire - the plug on the end of that goes into the ballast. Then the ballast comes back to the lead on the actualy HID bulb. (smaller round connector).
You don't have to pull the whole fender liner either - just cut the wheel (front in) and remove two screws (you'll see them).
__________________ Radiant Silver 2004 SE KC 4X4
Popular w/Bench, Utili-Bed, Little tow, Fog Lights, Chrome step tubes, and 1 3/4" PRG kit
i guess i did mine the hard way, i pulled my grille off, i found it to be alot easier, lots of room to work with when your standing and not kneeling..... i did my fogs too, it will come to you like mentioned above, it can only go together a few ways. hardest part is finding a spot for ballasts. You'll get it.
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2006 LE, CC, BT, 4x4-Blizzard White
Debadged,4 piece billet grille, Diamond plate truck Box, 20"Akuza wheels, tech12's w/ Memphis PR1-1000 amp / M-10's, Kenwood 7019 DD,DVD HU, Line of Fire LED light bar, LED third brake light, ADJURE crystal eyes tails, EFX HID lows and fogs, painted to match MADA air dam / inchannel window visors, Stillen Billet aluminum cap covers, 15% front tint, Non BT mirror swap.
Debadged,4 piece billet grille, Diamond plate truck Box, 20"Akuza wheels, tech12's w/ Memphis PR1-1000 amp / M-10's, Kenwood 7019 DD,DVD HU, Line of Fire LED light bar, LED third brake light, ADJURE crystal eyes tails, EFX HID lows and fogs, painted to match MADA air dam / inchannel window visors, Stillen Billet aluminum cap covers, 15% front tint, Non BT mirror swap.
its got to be the stock power wire, using 80 watt halogens kindve fried the power wire if i remember right, it was working fine when i left. I would continue to wiggle all your wires from the bulb to the ballast and then to the factory power,.............. honestly know that i had a chance think about it, that 80watt bulb you had it there screwed it up when it obviously overheated. lets start over, maybe the best thing to do is take it to the dealer, before you do that put your stock bulbs back in, and all the screws to your fender well, take it in and say your lights went out, they will see the fried wire and get it replaced for free under warranty. I think that is your best bet. your drivers side is working fine and your passenger side with the fried wire is the one causing the problems.. ok duct tape was just temporary until you got some some velcro tape or double sided 3m tape.. remember what we were talking about.
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2006 LE, CC, BT, 4x4-Blizzard White
Debadged,4 piece billet grille, Diamond plate truck Box, 20"Akuza wheels, tech12's w/ Memphis PR1-1000 amp / M-10's, Kenwood 7019 DD,DVD HU, Line of Fire LED light bar, LED third brake light, ADJURE crystal eyes tails, EFX HID lows and fogs, painted to match MADA air dam / inchannel window visors, Stillen Billet aluminum cap covers, 15% front tint, Non BT mirror swap.
Definitely gonna get some velcro or double sided tape, it's working fine now. Thinking about doing what you suggested, might have to do that later down the road though.
Did your kit not come with two little black or gray slip on connectors(caps) that adapt your spade terminals to your OEM harness? Usually most kits have these, makes life alot easier rather than using duct tape or velcro. If not the tabs on the connectors can be pulled out a bit to make them "click" or stay in the OEM connectors better.
oh yeah, it came with those, used the velcro to mount the ballasts onto the metal tray. 1 more questions, My passenger side only stays on when the trucks on, otherwise it will shut off within seconds any reason why?
oh yeah, it came with those, used the velcro to mount the ballasts onto the metal tray. 1 more questions, My passenger side only stays on when the trucks on, otherwise it will shut off within seconds any reason why?
That could be a few things.
Brand of kit used (some ebay kits dont work well)
ballast construction (is the igniter, relay & fuse built in)
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