Heater valve part number and... - Page 2

Luke · 10-28-2009, 09:31 AM

Interesting....titan_dork let me know for sure if replacing it fixes the heat one hundred percent for you.

**Scott@FontanaNissan** · 10-29-2009, 09:59 AM

Ok...the part came in...I'm about to ship it out to ya!

Here's a pic...this is the updated verson:

Scott

titan_dork · 10-29-2009, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@FontanaNissan

Ok...the part came in...I'm about to ship it out to ya!

Here's a pic...this is the updated verson:

Scott

Ummmm, updated version? Looks different, but looks like it will work.

Updated... as in nissan realizes there is a problem with the old style. (recall?)

Well, i'll try it out.

**Scott@FontanaNissan** · 10-29-2009, 08:19 PM

They are actually made by Bosch. Its pretty common practice for parts to become updated through production...its not a recall, just improving their product!

Scott

Luke · 10-30-2009, 04:56 AM

I wonder what part of the assembly they improved on...

what is the part number for this Bosch piece?

**Scott@FontanaNissan** · 10-30-2009, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@FontanaNissan

Hey Guys...

This is a tough one to match up...the part i'm coming up with is the Hose Assembly Inlet (aka Heater control valve) -- Part number 92400-7s52a. It lists for $125.87. My price is $100.70 plus shipping.

Scott

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luke

I wonder what part of the assembly they improved on...

what is the part number for this Bosch piece?

see post attached!

Scott

wrecks8 · 11-02-2009, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@FontanaNissan

see post attached!

Scott

left you a message:

Hi,

I'd like to order the replacement heater valve. Please send me your contact information so I can call you to place an order.

Thanks for helping out on the posting.

Rex

**Scott@FontanaNissan** · 11-04-2009, 10:49 AM

I'm about to hop on another plane... will be at the office this afternoon and tomorrow!

Scott

909-574-2288 x2253

titan_dork · 11-04-2009, 07:55 PM

Got the part in today. Looks like this one is direct drive... with a significantly larger motor (gonna have to check amp draw and see if i need bigger fuse/wires or even a relay, gonna have to figure out if it is the same voltage i guess too). It does have the same plug though it seems, so i'll probably just hook it up and see if it works (my truck is still under warranty anyway; but dealing with my local nissan stealership sucks!). Atleast this one doesn't have the double helix volkswagen engineered overly complex ridiculously inept and overthought design the original one had. This one will be a bit more involved to manually open it... or atleast more screws; star screws. Either way this one looks much stronger/better than the original design. The clamp that holds the bolted-to-firewall part to the valve/motor is a bit cheesy; and kinda looks like it is meant to have a plastic cover over it all... maybe i'll check out and 09' or 10' and see what it looks like on new vehicles... probably not though.

Don't have time to install it today/tonight, but maybe tomorrow. But first i reckon i'll take it apart and see how it works!

As far as "bosch part number" perhaps: 1 147 412 187 or 050527 B. Made in France. Bosch.
These numbers don't cross to anything as far as i have found.

Seems it comes as an assembly with the hoses because of the plastic hose clamps... not likely able to install these without equipment, and removing them would destroy the clamps. (and that would cost you a whopping $2 at the local auto store for regular hose clamps, $8 for anodized ones). So i can't just look inside it and see what type of valve is in it (cuz i don't have $2).

titan_dork · 11-05-2009, 03:47 PM

Part fits great.

But the electrical connection is different!

Bummer.

Think i need part #: 92400-A60003 ?maybe? or 92400-A60005 ?maybe?

But i'd rather not get the same junk part as original. I guess i'll have to find out what voltage this thing is and find a plug for it, and wire in a relay for it......

Took it apart today. This new one is a solenoid, not a motor. And since the motor is energized for +/- 20 seconds on heat call... a solenoid won't work. Definitely don't get this part; totally incorrect. I'm gonna bring her in and get it fixed under warranty now; i'm done. $100 lesson.

Went and looked at an 09' to see if it had a different valve. Same valve... but it had been crushed somehow (salesman started believing my story at this point). Test drove another 09', the heat didn't work (lol); didn't look at that valve though. Looked under hood of a 10'; same old valve; that one worked. It's being fixed on mine; under warranty (one month left on warranty).

Luke · 11-10-2009, 05:38 AM

Knights of Columbus what is the deal with this friggin piece? Thank you for the update T.D., I'm sorry it came by way of you throwing away $100, can't Fontana take it back? Or did you mangle it?

TD, I don't understand how you mean that a solenoid would present a problem if energized for +/- 20 seconds? Isn't that the function of almost all solenoids, just to energize for a duration to allow whatever medium to flow through.

How can this replacement part not have the correct wiring plug? Can you splice over the one off the original? That is, if I'm following you correctly in assuming it was the plug you meant when you said "electrical connection"....

titan_dork · 11-10-2009, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luke

Knights of Columbus what is the deal with this friggin piece? Thank you for the update T.D., I'm sorry it came by way of you throwing away $100, can't Fontana take it back? Or did you mangle it?

TD, I don't understand how you mean that a solenoid would present a problem if energized for +/- 20 seconds? Isn't that the function of almost all solenoids, just to energize for a duration to allow whatever medium to flow through.

How can this replacement part not have the correct wiring plug? Can you splice over the one off the original? That is, if I'm following you correctly in assuming it was the plug you meant when you said "electrical connection"....

The plug: very different (and that is what i meant basically). Sure it could be chopped off the original wiring harness (not something i want to do) and solder/crimp in a new one.... but where to find such a plug... that's the problem. And then i don't even know if the voltage and ampacity of the circuit is the same anyway.

Typically a solenoid would be energized (or de-energized) for the duration of medium flow, not just for 20 seconds. Such as a liquid line solenoid valve on an air conditioner... energizes to open the duration of runtime, de-energizes when a/c not running (and during pumpdown cycle blah blah blah); and also serves to remain closed during a power loss to prevent liquid migration of refrigerant to crankcase.... blah blah blah blah.... So basically a solenoid energizing for 20 seconds would not be a problem; if this were it's intended purpose; such as on a pump out cycle on an a/c (which would close a valve, typically the txv, for a brief time to reduce the pressure in evaporator and therefore boil off any migrated or settled liquid in evaporator; therefore preventing the liquid from entering the compressor and destroying it). (btw: i work on a/c stuff; and i'm sure this whole paragraph just bored you to tears.)

Solenoid vs valve: The original valve was driven for approx 20 seconds. On a need for hot water it would drive it open for 20 to be sure (heh) it was open, and then it remained open. And on a call for no hot water it would send opposite polarity for 20 seconds to ensure it closed (heh) and remained closed. This solenoid; which by my estimation is normally open (that is, the 'valve' is open when power is not applied); well this solenoid, if only energized for 20 seconds (reverse or normal polarity) would close the valve for only twenty seconds, and then reopen. (from my brief peek at this new valve i figured it was normally open; and closes by the solenoid magnet pushing the valve in; by way of attracting a larger metal mass at the 'other' end. So basically this solenoid would act same as manually opening the original valve (clockwise to open per my original thread)... except with a monkey under the hood closing it for 20 seconds at initial heat or initial cool call.... basically useless in this application. Oh and btw: this new valve flows considerably less fluid than the original valve (according to my approximations).

My guess is this new valve is for a vehicle with a completely different a/c heat controls package... i don't know.

As far as returning the part: no i haven't mangled it. But i did use it. And I very rarely ever return something... unless it's just plain broken. I bought it, i assumed the risk, and i lost this time. (although it would be nice if Fontana offered it...) (but i haven't asked directly, and won't. and perhaps he/she hasn't seen this thread again since my last posting(s).) (no biggie)

**Scott@FontanaNissan** · 11-10-2009, 07:00 PM

Send it back. I'll return your money! I'm sorry for the inconvenience it has caused ya...we were all a little unsure about the part. Please accept my apology and ship it back for a full refund.

Scott

Luke · 11-11-2009, 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by titan_dork

The plug: very different (and that is what i meant basically). Sure it could be chopped off the original wiring harness (not something i want to do) and solder/crimp in a new one.... but where to find such a plug... that's the problem. And then i don't even know if the voltage and ampacity of the circuit is the same anyway.

Typically a solenoid would be energized (or de-energized) for the duration of medium flow, not just for 20 seconds. Such as a liquid line solenoid valve on an air conditioner... energizes to open the duration of runtime, de-energizes when a/c not running (and during pumpdown cycle blah blah blah); and also serves to remain closed during a power loss to prevent liquid migration of refrigerant to crankcase.... blah blah blah blah.... So basically a solenoid energizing for 20 seconds would not be a problem; if this were it's intended purpose; such as on a pump out cycle on an a/c (which would close a valve, typically the txv, for a brief time to reduce the pressure in evaporator and therefore boil off any migrated or settled liquid in evaporator; therefore preventing the liquid from entering the compressor and destroying it). (btw: i work on a/c stuff; and i'm sure this whole paragraph just bored you to tears.)

Solenoid vs valve: The original valve was driven for approx 20 seconds. On a need for hot water it would drive it open for 20 to be sure (heh) it was open, and then it remained open. And on a call for no hot water it would send opposite polarity for 20 seconds to ensure it closed (heh) and remained closed. This solenoid; which by my estimation is normally open (that is, the 'valve' is open when power is not applied); well this solenoid, if only energized for 20 seconds (reverse or normal polarity) would close the valve for only twenty seconds, and then reopen. (from my brief peek at this new valve i figured it was normally open; and closes by the solenoid magnet pushing the valve in; by way of attracting a larger metal mass at the 'other' end. So basically this solenoid would act same as manually opening the original valve (clockwise to open per my original thread)... except with a monkey under the hood closing it for 20 seconds at initial heat or initial cool call.... basically useless in this application. Oh and btw: this new valve flows considerably less fluid than the original valve (according to my approximations).

My guess is this new valve is for a vehicle with a completely different a/c heat controls package... i don't know.

As far as returning the part: no i haven't mangled it. But i did use it. And I very rarely ever return something... unless it's just plain broken. I bought it, i assumed the risk, and i lost this time. (although it would be nice if Fontana offered it...) (but i haven't asked directly, and won't. and perhaps he/she hasn't seen this thread again since my last posting(s).) (no biggie)

Funny you discuss this, as I've been EPA universally certified since my days in the Navy and currently work on hermetics, centrifugals, and reciprocating units at my current job.

I guess I would have to dissect the unit myself to get a better grasp on the internal workings because it's hard for me to envision the solenoid being normally open and then closed upon energization. I'm used to a typical solenoid operating the exact opposite, opening upon energization and closing when power is off. But from an automotive engineer's thought process your explanation makes sense. I would assume that regardless of location of the vehicle and weather characteristics of a region, the fail safe of the solenoid would be the open position to allow for engine coolant medium to flow in the event of part malfunction.

And I appreciate your approximations, so evidently this new part is a catch 22. The old valve fails and only allows minute amounts of engine coolant to pass, yet the new "improved" part doesn't flow at the same capacity as the old failed part. Quite the quandary here. Syracuse, NY tonight's low? 28 degrees. I may have better luck eating garlic tonight and defrosting my windshield tomorrow am with my breath.

titan_dork · 11-11-2009, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott@FontanaNissan

Send it back. I'll return your money! I'm sorry for the inconvenience it has caused ya...we were all a little unsure about the part. Please accept my apology and ship it back for a full refund.

Scott

Thanks for the offer. No worries though, i'll keep it as a momento; it looks good hanging on my shed's wall; next to a plethora of other parts that never quite worked out.

Who knows, maybe i'll need the screws out of it, or the hoses off of it some day.