Heater valve part number and... - Page 3

Luke · 11-17-2009, 08:55 PM

I'm shocked it's only been us chiming in with this problem on our Titans. Too many people live in nice weather year round!

Thatsgr8 · 11-18-2009, 05:53 AM

I have the same problem, the only difference is when I feel both hoses, they are hot. I get very little heat, if any. I have the new style valve. Can that valve be manually opened for heat. What part did the dealer replace, and did that fix the problem? I am tempted to cut the hoses, and bypass the valve. Has anyone tried that yet?

Scott

Luke · 11-21-2009, 10:15 PM

See, with what info you provided and the recent strings of bad actuators/cam gears associated with our cabin ventilation systems, I'm thinking the two problems may be linked and possibly piggybacking one another.

titan_dork · 11-24-2009, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thatsgr8

I have the same problem, the only difference is when I feel both hoses, they are hot. I get very little heat, if any. I have the new style valve. Can that valve be manually opened for heat. What part did the dealer replace, and did that fix the problem? I am tempted to cut the hoses, and bypass the valve. Has anyone tried that yet?

Scott

If you have hot water on both sides of the valve... then the valve isn't the problem... atleast not the main problem.

Is the other hose (the one that returns from the heater back to the engine) hot also? If it is, then you're not getting airflow over the heat coil... either a very dirty coil (not likely) or the air flap isn't opening fully.

You have the new style valve? What year/model do you have (if it is in your sig and i missed it, nevermind).

My heat is working great now; they replaced it with the same one as original. Warranty is done now though.

Time for some mods.

Thatsgr8 · 12-03-2009, 04:57 AM

It almost sounds like the thermostat is not staying closed to allow heat to build up. After 20 minutes or so, maybe longer it will start getting somewhat warm.

Thatsgr8 · 12-18-2009, 05:57 AM

The other problem I notice is when I put it on heat the air flap makes noises like the gear that moves the flap is skipping over broken teeth. That would suck, the only way to get to it is remove the dash. Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions for a solution?

Luke · 12-20-2009, 06:26 AM

my ventilation actuator or gear grinds too, even when I leave the climate knobs alone (as I do in winter anyway). I took apart my motor assembly yesterday and it works correctly so I'm thinking the same thing-that the flap isn't opening up all the way. I don't really want to tear into the dash but it looks like I may have too

rynomx785 · 12-20-2009, 08:06 AM

Mine is doing the same thing. No heat at all. It made living in Lake Tahoe last winter miserable! lol I'll have to check and see if it is getting hot on both sides of the valve. I took it to the local Ford dealership last week (no Nissan dealer in my area). They told me that it was the heater actuator behind the dash and the whole dash had to come out to fix it. I called the closest Nissan dealer to price out the actuator. Its a $39 part so I had the guy transfer me to the service department to price out the install. . .$900!!!! So I'm hoping that maybe I am having the same issue that you guys are and my whole dash doesn't have to come out.

GT2 · 12-20-2009, 08:59 AM

I have a 06 CC 4x4 with manual heat controls. I too had the no heat prob,
I took the glove box facia off and checked the two metal tubes going to the heater core, razor hot!
Thru much investagation I found the problem was that the air door actuator mechinism on top of the heater box had linkeges derailed ( they switch two air doors from heat to cool ). I re-assembled the linkeges and tried operating the system again. The linkeges imedately derailed again.
After further investagation I relised the motor actuater was over clocking ( turning too far ) and putting load on the arm stops and causing them to de rail.
I took the motor apart and cleaned the contacts ( not anything inside you can really fix ) and tried again, same prob.
So I figured bad motor? Wrong, I bought a new one and it did the same thing, stoping in the wrong place.
Well I did some more investagation and it turns out there is a thin plastic stop piece on top of the heater box that stops the motor from turning, the motor senses the stop and shuts its self off.
The problem is this thin plastic stop "strip" is cracked and leaning back at an angle allowing the motor to spin the linkage too far, causing the linkage to ride up the stop a bit, and then the linkages pop out.

So.. this means a new heater box.

Well Im not doing that. What I did was disconect the front air flap arm and close the flap almost all the way to the heat side. I left the rear flap arm hooked up to the motor/actuator, then I never put the climate controll to full cold and it stays hooked up.
Come summer time I will move the front air door to mostly cool position.
Also I plan to try to move the bent/broken heater box stop to the upright position and build up some epoxey behind it. Hopefully that will stick.

Ok.. now for the really bad news

, It is almost impossible to get axcess to the top of the heater box.
I have very skinney hands,arms and long fingers, and it was very painfull and frustrating to work on. If the heater box is hot, let it cool, I burned my self more than a few times. I see why the dealers rip out the dash.
I was barely able to get to all the fastners with a 1/4 drive set.

If you havent opened up the dash befor: take the four outer screws out of the glove box suround and remove the glove box latch ( 2 screws). The suround and glove box assembly is still held on with spring clips so you have to pull/pry it off, start on the left side.
When you get it off, about in the center top front of the box is a white plastic piece with one wire going to it. Reach in and gently pop it straight up a little bit and then spin it 180%( I think its a temp probe). Doing this will allow you to look back through there and see the linkage in action. Turn the key on and play with the controls, you will see what is happening.

I found that if you take off the black cap over the heater core it allows a smidge more room to get in there, but if you have fat hands etc. prolly not going to happen

!

Luke · 12-20-2009, 09:54 AM

wow, excellent post! I'm going to try that but not sure when as it's already zero degrees and below here. I may have to wait until spring. This stop strip is a part of the heater box obviously and cannot be ordered/replaced on it's own. Sounds like the epoxy idea will work if you can get in there to place it correctly.

Thatsgr8 · 12-22-2009, 05:25 AM

I'm not to sure about epoxy though. If I am going to remove the dash I will have to devise another way to stop the flap. I was thinking a screw and a nut with a plastic sleeve on on it. Not sure though. I live in Phoenix, so the temp is not freezing. It is still bearable here. Sorry to hear about the Titanians who are in zero temps.

GT2 · 12-22-2009, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thatsgr8

I'm not to sure about epoxy though. If I am going to remove the dash I will have to devise another way to stop the flap. I was thinking a screw and a nut with a plastic sleeve on on it. Not sure though. I live in Phoenix, so the temp is not freezing. It is still bearable here. Sorry to hear about the Titanians who are in zero temps.

I'm not sure about the epoxy ether. The plastic is kind of slick, not to mention the fact that there is grease all over the parts. Might be hard to clean it perfectly.
I had also thought about driving a screw behind the stop, and then adding epoxy around it.
My plan is to try and do it without ripping off the dash, but it will be tough.

When you say "a screw and a nut with a plastic sleeve on on it" are you talking about through bolting it? If so that will entail removing the box and taking it apart.
Tim

**walleeme** · 12-22-2009, 08:01 AM

Get a load of this: Godzilla lost the heat on his 06 Titan.
He just bypassed the little valve thingy bolted to the cowl, left the dead thingy plugged in, and his heat works perfect.
I took pics but can't post them right now.

rynomx785 · 12-22-2009, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thatsgr8

I'm not to sure about epoxy though. If I am going to remove the dash I will have to devise another way to stop the flap. I was thinking a screw and a nut with a plastic sleeve on on it. Not sure though. I live in Phoenix, so the temp is not freezing. It is still bearable here. Sorry to hear about the Titanians who are in zero temps.

I'm about an hour from you so if you figure it out will you please let me know. I refuse to give the dealership $900 to install a $39 part!

Vadelli803 · 12-25-2009, 12:46 PM

Hey Guys I'm new to TT. I do have a CT account though. I think I might have the same problem. I googled and found this post so I figured I could just jump in. With my truck the heat only works under throttle. If i'm idling at at a light or just warming up the truck my heat doesn't warm. I dunno if this would be the same thing as everyone elses problem. I havent had a chance to check the coolant level. We got 2 feet of snow here and its cold. Need this fixed asap cuz I have a 3 month old. Any helped would be greatly appreciated.