radar hardwire

[greg w]

1. Remove overhead console. Five screws then pull down carefully - snaps in.

2. Locate tape wraped wire running side to side , ( see photo ).

3. Splice in wires from radar cord. I also cut the coiled part of the cord off and used the red and black wires in photo.

4. Run the wire under headliner and out at windshield.

5. Remove telescoping channel that runs from headliner to mirror mount, (see
photo), by sliding upper portion down over lower portion. Snap tabs at
mirror mount I think but I didn't remove when writing this.

6. Make sure you have enough cord from channel to radar unit and place radar detector onto windshield. Make sure that you can see it's display around the mirror from your driving position and that sunvisor and extender will open. Also make sure your not pointing the detector into black grid in windshield and hiding your signal.

7. Re-assemble

Now everytime you open your door you will hear detector come on,if it's like my Cobra you'll hear system ready as you get in.

DRIVE CAREFULLY!!!!!

[Keven]

Excellent information, greg ... many thanks! Someone else suggested this to me when I was inquiring about hardwiring my V1. I decided it best (being I'm blonde at this stuff) that I take it in and let a pro do it for me. He wired directly to the fusebox and just ran the wire up the A pillar and under the headliner. It's a pretty clean install and makes use of the V1's inline fuse.

Thanks again! I learned much here.

[greg w]

The thing I like about this is it shuts off with the auto power down of the truck so I never have to turn it off.

[Dude]

Excellent information, greg ... many thanks! Someone else suggested this to me when I was inquiring about hardwiring my V1. I decided it best (being I'm blonde at this stuff) that I take it in and let a pro do it for me. He wired directly to the fusebox and just ran the wire up the A pillar and under the headliner. It's a pretty clean install and makes use of the V1's inline fuse.

I did the same thing. My radar detector turns on when the car starts and shuts off when the car is turned off(Passport 8500). By going to the fusebox, you can have whatever you want. Whatever way you want to go should be fine. It took me about 15 minutes to run the wire as mentioned above.

[bvstone1]

My RX65 uses that stupid "smart cord" like a telephone wire. I am pretty sure I can find the right wires to use and just use normal phone plug and wire, but I'd hate to mess it up. And the cig. plug also has controls and lights on it... I don't mind the chord so much..

BTW, the POP sensor works VERY good on this unit.

[FLfinfan]

Good info, thanks!

[love1u0]

This post would be good in the FAQ/Howto Area.

[Dude]

My RX65 uses that stupid "smart cord" like a telephone wire.

So does mine. The cord merges into standard wires after about the first foot(from the telephone wire to the regular 2 wires). I simply cut off the cigarette lighter plug and connected the ground, and then connected the hot wire to the fuse box.

[bvstone1]

Originally Posted by Dude

So does mine. The cord merges into standard wires after about the first foot(from the telephone wire to the regular 2 wires). I simply cut off the cigarette lighter plug and connected the ground, and then connected the hot wire to the fuse box.

The funny thing is, you can buy a hardwire kit for $30. IT's just standard phone wire. I even tested the plug. I opened up the cig plug to find which wires are ground and 12v.. pretty easy to do. Maybe I can move the LEDs and mute button from the cig plug to somewhere else on the dash, or maybe a switch blank. That would be pretty cool.

[bvstone1]

Originally Posted by greg w

The thing I like about this is it shuts off with the auto power down of the truck so I never have to turn it off.

I just did this and the wires I found that you said to use were always 12v... didn't do anything with the doors. Are you sure your detector doesn't just autopower off after a certain time (sensing voltage drop, ie car not running).

I tested first, but used them anyway. May move them and just rund the power lines to the fuse block.

[ZIPPY]

How are you guys hooking into the fuse box? I have my wire ran that far but don't want to screw it up now.

[Dude]

How are you guys hooking into the fuse box? I have my wire ran that far but don't want to screw it up now.

I simply wrap the hot wire around 1 end of the fuse I choose to use and push it back into the fuse box. I usually wrap it around twice. I ran the ground to one of the bolts in the door if I remember correctly. I always connect to a fuse that is not hot unless the key is turned on. This way my detector turns off when the car turns off and turns on when the car turns on.

May not be the best way, but I have been doing it this way for about 15 years and never once blown a fuse or had a problem of any kind with my electrical system.

[syntrix]

Wrap a 12+ wire around a fuse blade? Ummm, try some insulated connectors before you actually have a problem!

[pciley]

12+?? the wires inside the cord on my radar detector can't be heavier than 18 guage. Looks like what's INSIDE the phone line if you cut it open. Really tiny wires. Would fit fine on a fuse blade, but still wouldn't do it.

Just splice into an ignition-hot wire. Use the probe on your multitester to find one. The easiest is the cigarette lighter outlet that is NOT always hot. The passenger side 12v outlet is only powered when the ignition is on.

I also ran from under the dash, up the pillar, under the front of the headliner, and down the mirror channel. Looks/works great. Probably takes no longer than 20 minutes if you have NO idea what you are doing.

[miniracer26]

Originally Posted by bvstone1

I just did this and the wires I found that you said to use were always 12v... didn't do anything with the doors. Are you sure your detector doesn't just autopower off after a certain time (sensing voltage drop, ie car not running).

I tested first, but used them anyway. May move them and just rund the power lines to the fuse block.

mine did the same thing