syn oil =hp gains

[kmonto]

I run AMSOIL 0w-30 in both of my nissans and AMSOIL 5w-30 in my chevy truck. I have no doubt in the quality and performance of the oil.

[vioc]

Guys,

I have been in the quick lube/oil business for 20 years. Synthetic oil is definately superior from the day it is installed. It is the best protection against wear, it does give you cooler engine temp. It does give you an increase in horsepower, these are all proven facts in the industry. There seems to be some thinking among members that the benefits of full synthetic don't "kick in" till after some mileage has gone by since installed. The additive package in synthetic oil breaks down over time just like conventional oil. Remember that the "base stock" of a quart of oil makes up 80% of that quart. The additive package (anti foaming agents, inhibators, etc) makes up the remaining 20%. Therefore in conventional oil the base stock is natural oil, in synthetic the base stock is 100% man made and by far superior in protection and longevity. But the burn off of the base stock during the life of the oil is what affects performance, including affecting emissions therefore affecting computer managed fuel and emissions systems, like our Titans.
Remember that your trucks computer makes adjustments in the fuel and air mixture based on the information the oxygen sensor (among others) gives it. Then it only makes sense that synthetic, that does not cause by products of the burn off will make a much better choice. Concluding in better protection against wear, cooler engine temps, more horsepower.
Valvoline, in my opinion is the best product both conventional and synthetic avaliable in todays market.

PS. A drain interval over 7500 miles is absurd and a marketing ploy by companies like Royal Purple and Amsoil. Take apart one of those amsoil motors and it will not make you and amsoil believer.

[rawze]

great post-thanks

[roadtoad]

The Amsoil site and its forums are a fine place to separate opinion from fact. Owning a trucking line, I've done oil analysis after many miles between changes enough times to find their claims believable. Amsoil is the #1 synthetic choice of long-haul truckers Amsoil

[kmonto]

86 K20 long bed 4x4 with 350 V8, I have it on the 25K oil change interval that is why I am using the 5w-30 on it. Which means at 1/2 way point, 12.5K, I change filter and add one quart. 167K miles and I use it for offroading, towing, and pretty much bang the crap out of it. Still does not burn any oil - compression is strong... Life is good.

On the Sentra and Armada I am on a 7500 mile full change interval with the 0w-30.

Main thing to remember is run what you want... If you think your stuff is better, go for it. Don't listen to anyone else, just yourself...

[JKB]

Do your homework on synthetic oil and you will always come up with the same conclusion, it is far superior. Engine wear takes place on start up, the faster you get oil pressure the less wear. Now check the flow index for synthetic and the dino, no comparison. I spent months doing research as I was told not to use synthetic in my ATV as it would ruin the wet clutches. This was proven to be false, friction modifiers that are added to dinol oil that is listed as Energy Conserving have friction modifiers, they are used to produce better fuel economy and these will damage wet clutches. Synthetic does not require these modifiers to procduce energy conserving oil. If you look at the success of Shell Synthetics in the trucking industry ask yourself why in an engine that is worth a great deal of money, why would most fleets be switching to syn.
jim

[pciley]

Synthetics are of course more "slippery." That's the point. That is why they offer less friction and a more efficient motor. Its good to reitterate the accurate points.

Merceds Benz says keep their oil in for a few thousand miles before switching to synthetics, the car breaks in better and everything "seats" properly. They said if you switch to syn. right away, you COULD have long term problems due to the improper break-in.

MBZ likes to do a 10k - 12k interval, but they have had some sludging problems and law suits. Some manual adendums have been sent out to owners of previous MBZ models.

They swear by Mobil-1.
I disagree with their service intervals, ESPECIALLY the first one, leaving in the factory oil for over 10k, and in some cases, 15k. Thats alot of break-in mung flowing through your motor. My local MBZ dealership's service manager agrees. He recommends you switch over to syn. about 3k-5k. He also likes AMsoil better than Mobil-1, but the dealership is required by MBZ to use the Mobil-1...

that's just a preference thing, I use them both and don't see any difference between Amsoil and Mobil-1.

I know Mercedes and Nissan are completely different cars, no need for any one to yell about that, but its just a case in point .. food for thought..

[todd92]

Mercedes comes with Mobil 1 from the factory, so there is no 'switching over'. The Mercedes sludging problems were from people who changed the synthetic to conventional and then ran that for 12000+ miles. 12000+ mile change intervals are not an issue for synthetics. BMW comes with synthetic, Porsche comes with synthetic, Corvette comes with synthetic. Every top level race team, be it Formula 1, CART, IRL, NASCAR all use synthetic.

Can we just stop with the ignorant posts once and for all? The facts are out there for those that care enough to do some research. The rest can do whatever they please, but should keep thier opinions to themselves.

[SOCAL SE]

Originally Posted by drags1998

I saw that to, What a load of CRAP!!!!!!!! What does that tell you about the oil that was in that engine!!! Maybe a slight inprovement,but NOT 8-10 H.P. I use Mobil-1 in every Engine I own, But not for the HP,For the protection

That makes two of us

[MagLeto]

Originally Posted by todd92

Can we just stop with the ignorant posts once and for all?

Umm.... what planet are you on?

Seriously, though, most forums are driven by ignorance. If I wasn't ignorant about a great deal of mechanical wisdom, I wouldn't be here in search of knowledge from those of you more gifted in that area.

We all have our specialties.

Cheers!

[roadie]

My dealer said NEVER use synthetic in a Titan you could spin a bearing. He said that the walls are coated with something where you never need synthetic even after the break-in period. ???????????????

[GETSOMZ28]

Originally Posted by roadie

My dealer said NEVER use synthetic in a Titan you could spin a bearing. He said that the walls are coated with something where you never need synthetic even after the break-in period. ???????????????

Your dealer is an idiot! Synthetic is superior to dino oil (read the above posts or go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and read up some more). The cast iron cylinder liners (walls?) are not coated with anything, but the pistons are coated with molybdenum to reduce friction.

[lcbrownz]

Originally Posted by roadie

My dealer said NEVER use synthetic in a Titan you could spin a bearing. He said that the walls are coated with something where you never need synthetic even after the break-in period. ???????????????

Who is "the dealer", a mechanic, a salesman, a service writer? Whom ever is was probably doesn't use synthetic.

[rawze]

i can't believe he said that -i have always heard syn was the way to go. i'd like to run it in the titan but i have free oil changes up to 60k and i'm going to take advantage of it

[SupraTitan]

Originally Posted by 92SE-R

You can actually dyno with higher results with lower weight oils. Try running Ow-30 oil. YOu will dyno a few hp more, but I'd personally take the power loss for more protection. Also, keep in mind your drivetrain oils. For example, on SE-R's, the trannies are notoriously weak. When you get big power, they like to blow up and one of the ways we've been able to postpone this is by using Redline Heavyweight Shockproof oil, which is like 150W. It takes like 45 minutes to put in 4 quarts of the stuff. It's like Pepto Bismol. This stuff robs easily 5-6 hp.


Terrin
92 SE-R
13.2@104

I agree with part of what you say, but remember a 0w-30 is still a 30wt, case and point- GC syntec 0w-30 is a slightly heavier oil than Mobil 1 10w-30. SUS viscosity at 210 deg. F GC 0w-30 is a 67.6, mobil 1 5w-30= 60.3 and 10w-30 is 58.3, mobil 1 0w-40 is a 72.6 and actually closer in viscosity to the GC 0w-30 than mobils 30 wts. To be a 30wt oil its viscosity must be between 58-68. Just remember the first number has nothing to do with the oil viscosity at the measured 210 deg. F. There is a difference as the temp of the oil drops however. Thats why I really like the GC 0w-30, I wouldn't touch any other castrol syntec oil but the 0w-30 is good stuff its a PAO base vs. the rest of the syntec line which are comprised of group IV oil. Thinner the lube the more power and effieciency, thicker the lube gives an added layer of protection when up to temp. Its just a matter of finding the sweet spot. You must suprise alot of people with that SE-R, impressive numbers, I can see why you need such a thick gear lube.