i just saw on tv where they did a dyno on a camaro and got a 8hp increase by just running sythetic (oil, tranny, and rear). that was very interesting by cutting back the friction made so much difference. they were running purple something.
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RICK : TITAN NO MORE
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its true...i saw it too. But the only way you see gains is going from an over used oil thats crap to begin with, and then using something like that royal purple which is a synthetic. so it does work, but only after neglect.
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04 Titan XE CC 2WD Born July 31 2004
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Worst case versus best case
Quote:
Originally Posted by rawze
<SNIP> cutting back the friction made so much difference. they were running purple something.
Rawze,
They were probably taking worst case (cheap oils past change, additives all depleted) to best case (flush, clean oil, drain and replace all) so that they could have the very absolute maximum difference.
However, it is possible. When the railroads were entrenched with 'sliding' bearings, Timken built a locomotive with all roller bearing technology. One publicity photo showed a number of 'secretaries' (boy would we get in trouble calling them that today) pulling the locomotive. Rolling frictions were reduced by that much.
By reducing the amount of horsepower it takes to overcome rolling (sliding) resistance, it is surprising how much you can gain. My old Dodge truck got a for-sure 1 MPG gain by switching to synthetic, so there is something to it.
Could they have cheated by injecting some 'magic stuff' like molybedinum disulfide? Sure.
__________________ Steamguy
Deepwater Blue ...(when it's not Dirt Brown)
Trailer-puller, thrill Ride for Sheltie-dogs
Born 11/11/03, still the original owner.
Finally found an appropriate sig pic. It's good at least through August...
I saw that to, What a load of CRAP!!!!!!!! What does that tell you about the oil that was in that engine!!! Maybe a slight inprovement,but NOT 8-10 H.P. I use Mobil-1 in every Engine I own, But not for the HP,For the protection
My last truck was a 1996 Ford F150, I drove it for 8 years, 176,000 miles. the temp gauge had the word normal in the face of the gauge. The temp always ran on the "r" in normal. The last time I changed oil I change from Castrol GTX to Mobil 1. I imediately noticed that the temp was on the "n" and not the "r". That would be 5-10 degree temp drop from using the syn oil. If the lesser friction can lower the temp that much, there could be some hp gain.
there is always going to be something of a difference when changing lube's, whether its better or worse. but the point is is that the only way to see a 5% or so increase in HP or TQ is going from overdone lube's to fresh lube's.
i don't know if the lubes were shot at first or not but it still did 300 stock
__________________
RICK : TITAN NO MORE
I like the sound when i push the pedal down!!
I GET BORED UNLESS IT'S FLOORED
TRADED FOR A LIMITED 4X4 1999 4RUNNER
SILVER KC SE 4x4
rf w/captains
chrome bed rails
air box mod w/kn drop in
jba exhaust
wade bug shield
side window ventvisors
billet lower grill
line x liner
factory step rails
AVS headlight accents
I am actually not a big fan of synthetic oil. i recently had a chevy 2500 hd. i ran pennzoil for about 25,000 miles then switched to mobil 1 with all the talk about how much better it was. within 5000 miles my cam was bad, and a hydraulic cam should hardly ever go out. the tech guy told me that synthetic was so slick that in some cases it is harmful to an engine. i guess that is why they say not to break an engine in with synthetic oil. so i quit using it, i have used pennzoil for 15 years and never had a problem, so the sying goes if its not broke dont fix it.
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lol if you want, but all i know is that about a month ago i was going to switch to synthetic actually it was royal purple. my dads buddy runs late model dirt car, 406 c.i. pushing about 750- 800 hp. he is a motor guru. he knows about everything when it comes to engines, he told me not to run full synthetic, but instead a syntec blend. he gave me a bunch of reasons why. thing is i just didnt really understand what he was talking about, way over my head. he said that bearings and stuff didnt seat good with full synthetic.
so todd tell me where my buddy is wrong and ill go back and tell him.
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Galaxy Titan KC LE 4x4
Trenz billet
Painted bushwhackers
15% tint
prg front and rear kit
You can actually dyno with higher results with lower weight oils. Try running Ow-30 oil. YOu will dyno a few hp more, but I'd personally take the power loss for more protection. Also, keep in mind your drivetrain oils. For example, on SE-R's, the trannies are notoriously weak. When you get big power, they like to blow up and one of the ways we've been able to postpone this is by using Redline Heavyweight Shockproof oil, which is like 150W. It takes like 45 minutes to put in 4 quarts of the stuff. It's like Pepto Bismol. This stuff robs easily 5-6 hp.
Ask your dad what makes synthetic more "slippery". Then ask him what makes synthetic oil "synthetic" and how that could possibly make it more "slippery".
Next, ask him what Energy Conserving I and II mean on an oil and if these are more "slippery" than a non EC oil.
Now, get two slipnslides. Put synth oil on one, and dino on another (same weights). Do 5 test slides per slipnslide and measure which one makes you go further.
Finally, ask him why Porche and other high performance cars come from the factory with synthetic in them.
The only reason to use dino for break in is because it's cheaper and you'll change more often.
I've used Amsoil synthetic in diesel and gas trucks for years. It's JMO, but the mileage and HP gains are slight in gassers, yet 35,000 between oil changes and no sludge and varnish to dry out gaskets is my reason. Like the Tundra before it, I'm running Amsoil 0w-30 in this Titan with confidence it'll do the job.
__________________ '04 Titan KC LE 4x4 Amana White
OEM: Big Tow, Offroad, Utilitrak, Extender, Step rails, Mudflaps, Captains, XM Satellite Radio
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