Third time's a charm! I tried a mod suggested by a member here to make my own O2 simulator using Radio Shack capacitors and resistors... no workie!
Tried a unit I bought on line.. no workie!
Almost gave up, was buying brake fluid at dealer, SAW O2 SIM. ON THE WALL!!!
Bought, installed, works great, NO MORE MIL on the straight pipes!!!!
I used an OBDII scanner to delete the MIL code and it hasn't come back on since, at least half a dozen restarts and several hundred miles later. It used to show up after TWO Trips so I know for sure it is working.
From Mossy Nissan in Oceanside, Cali, the part number is
"02x/104052" (intended for Nissan Sentra)
JetTech was receiving the MIL with his straight pipes. Come to find out that the bung was thicker than the factory one and covering part of the O2 sensor.
O2 simulators allow you to eliminate the catalytic converters without turning on your Malfunction Indicator Lamp (like the check engine light on other makes).
For whatever reason, when I removed the factory resonators and replaced them with 3" straight pipes (HAS NO AFFECT ON THE CAT's), the MIL turned on.
I cleared the ECU several times and the light would always come back within 2 or 3 drives.
An OBDII scanner showed the trouble code belonged to the secondary O2 sensor on Bank 2 (passenger side).
I replaced the sensor thinking that I banged it on the ground or something and broke it, but the same thing happened on the same bank again.
Installing the 02 simulators fixed the problem by leading the ECU to believe that whatever the emissions are like after the Cats, everything is working properly.
This makes room for future mods, like eliminating the Catalytic converters and replacing those with straight pipes also.
Another benefit might be for those of you that want to try out the Octane Boosters that are available.
When you go to the track, you will be able to use the octane boost without being afraid of fowling the sensors. Even if they get fowled, the O2 simulators will still show a clean signal to the ECU and you won't get a MIL.
It is not wise to discuss criminal activity on a publicly viewed forum. Tampering with the emissions systems in California is a big bust. I have read fines in excess of $2500 to $10,000 can be levied against someone who removes their Catalytic converter.
I'm also sick of the draconian smog rules in California. I spent almost $300 trying everything to get my Ram to pass smog. It turned out that the cat hollowed out on it's own. Before replacing the cat, smog testing showed my truck to be a "gross polluter." After replacing the cat, I had numbers that were far lower than the average. The numbers don't lie, the cat works to reduce emissions.
I drove the truck before the cat was replaced and after it was replaced. I did notice a small reduction in my acceleration, and a reduction in my exhaust sound. Even if the mod is worth a "few horsepower," in my opinion it's not worth turning your new truck into a "gross polluter.
Thanks for the warning. I had removed the cat on my old car and didn't really "feel" any gains, but it was a 4-banger Honda Prelude with not much power to begin with.
I really think with our bigger motors and more restrictive exhaust (if you get under and look the piping bends are embarassing (but standard to the industry, no worse than any other make), coupled with the up-and-coming supercharger, having straight pipes at the track would be alot of fun and 'gains.'
When I got a ticket for my exhaust on my old car, I had to take it to an inspection station to have a police officer put the car on the lift to make sure I had put the OEM exhaust back on. I put the exhaust back on but left the "test pipe" on. The cop didn't sign off the ticket, I had to come back and pay ANOTHER $10 after putting the cat back on for him to reinspect and sign off the fix-it ticket.
I had no idea there were such fines. That might be for offendors who don't fix the problem or something, but as far as I have experienced and been lectured by police officers, it is just the inconvenience of having to pay a $10 fix it ticket and find an inspection station to sign it off once removed.
Maybe the fines were threatened but not inforced ya know? Like one of those scare tactics or something. It would probably deter some people.
If I drove the truck every day I wouldn't consider removing the cats because of the stink (the Prelude stank badly without a cat, I can't imagine this motor at over twice the displacement and twice the power).
I only drive the truck on the weekends for fun, so removing the cats does have some fun-factor appeal to me.
were the color codes of the o2 sensors correct as per the diagram? and where did you mount the simulators?
Thanks,
Quote:
Originally Posted by pciley
Third time's a charm! I tried a mod suggested by a member here to make my own O2 simulator using Radio Shack capacitors and resistors... no workie!
Tried a unit I bought on line.. no workie!
Almost gave up, was buying brake fluid at dealer, SAW O2 SIM. ON THE WALL!!!
Bought, installed, works great, NO MORE MIL on the straight pipes!!!!
I used an OBDII scanner to delete the MIL code and it hasn't come back on since, at least half a dozen restarts and several hundred miles later. It used to show up after TWO Trips so I know for sure it is working.
From Mossy Nissan in Oceanside, Cali, the part number is
"02x/104052" (intended for Nissan Sentra)
man how are you going to get that thing smogged in CA???
Just like everyone else. Unless I'm reading this wrong, he didn't touch the cats. By replacing the resonators with straight pipes it probably messed with the exhaust pulses enough to make the O2 sensor throw up a red flag even though they weren't touched. And since he's only dealing with the second sensor, its not affecting his closed loop tuning or anything like that. So absolutely no changes to his emissions.
Sure, if you go to a place that's going to visually map out your entire electrical schematic and ensure no tampering, then yes, he'd fail the visual just by the modification. But there's about as much chance in winning the lottery as having your normal Joe Schmoe smog tech do that.
just had a chance to look under the truck when i installed the banks exhaust. the cats are part of the exhaust manifold and there is a separate ~1 foot section of piping that connects to the rest of the exhaust (y pipe, muffler, tailpipe). in this section, there is a resonator and an O2 sensor on each pipe. thus the restriction would still be there even after installing a normal catback bolt-on system. basically, he has not done anything illegal. alternatively, you can fab test pipes to remove the resonators AND add (thinner) bungs for the sensors.
Another benefit might be for those of you that want to try out the Octane Boosters that are available.
When you go to the track, you will be able to use the octane boost without being afraid of fowling the sensors. Even if they get fowled, the O2 simulators will still show a clean signal to the ECU and you won't get a MIL.
I ll bet you still get a MIL for fouling out the front o2 sensors and/or the spark plugs. Octane booster is snake oil IMHO. If you really want a boost in octane, get higher octane gas, or make your own.
__________________
Scott
2004 White Titan SE CrewCab 4x4 - (SOLD)
2002 SOM Z28 - For haulin' arse
I ll bet you still get a MIL for fouling out the front o2 sensors and/or the spark plugs. Octane booster is snake oil IMHO. If you really want a boost in octane, get higher octane gas, or make your own.
I really wish I could find some higher octane UNleaded gas! The 76 stations around here don't sell higher than 92. When I was in high school, there used to be a 76 station that you could get higher octane gas from for those Friday night races, but that was years ago. The only guys I know of by me are VP racing fuels and they are leaded, that I know of. They sell a 110 octane gas I use sometimes in the quads, when I can afford it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by markislive78
pciley,
were the color codes of the o2 sensors correct as per the diagram? and where did you mount the simulators?
Thanks,
Mark, sorry for the slow response. The color codes are accurate to the TOP diagram on the sheet I scanned.
But, you have to guess which white wire to use. I am not very good with a multitester, but when I hooked up to both white wires, they both read the same. I accidentally hooked into the "heater" wire first and still had the MIL. Once I switched white wires, the problem went away. Unless it was just poltergeist... Again, both wires had the same voltage. I didn't check Amps or anything. I'm not an electrician so maybe someone else can explain why I had to switch wires to get it working properly.
Pciley; Have you ever thought of using avgas. That is avation fuel?
I don't know if it is good for car engines, but when I fuel up our plane (172 skyhawk xp) sometimes there are people asking us to to fill their 5 gal. cans so they can put it in their race cars. They claim it really makes their engines haul butt. We have two grades at our little airport. I for the life of me can't remember the octane ratings. We have what amounts ro regular and ethyl. I run the regular in my plane, I think the ethel was rated in the mid 90's.
Anyway, that was just a thought.
__________________
2007 Tundra Limited DC 4X4
5.7L,NAV,TRD,TOW
Xlerator Exhaust
aFe Stage 2 CAI
Desert Sand Mica
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.