Nissan Titan Forum banner

My E-Fan Setup

25K views 59 replies 20 participants last post by  HRTKD  
#1 · (Edited)
My OEM radiator developed a crack and I replaced it with the CSF 3328 radiator. Since I was tearing it apart I decided to have an e-fan created. The folks at Fontana Nissan recommended The Fan Man. I researched them and on a number of forums I found that The Fan Man has a very good reputation. I had the new CSF radiator shipped directly to The Fan Man so there would be no fitment issues. CSF did a lousy job of packaging and the shipping company did a number on the radiator. Consequently, The Fan Man still has the radiator and they can use it to template off of.

My e-fan consists of the custom fabricated shroud, two 13" SPAL medium profile fans, two SPAL Fan Relay Harnesses, a metal radiator hose pipe and a custom temperature probe.

The Fan Man wasn't sure what temperature range the probe should be. They sent me a 210° probe and it turns out that is way too high. The Titan thinks that overheating is imminent at that temperature. I'll be replacing the 210º probe with a SPAL 195° in the next couple of days but I think I'll likely switch over to a 185° probe. Switching to a different probe is fairly easy. It takes just a few minutes.

I think The Fan Man did a great job. They never had the OEM shroud in-house so they went off of measurements of the OEM shroud that I sent them. All the included hardware was stainless steel and the nuts were nylon locking.

This is the setup as it was shipped to me. Sitting on top of the shroud is the radiator pipe and the temperature probe. On top of the right fan is the hose mount plate. The pictures and measurements I sent them were good, but to make it perfect they created the plate and I mounted it exactly where it needed to be. They included rivets but I ended up using bolts that also served to hold the relays and a central negative ground.
Image


The front of the fan. Note the central rib that they put in. I suspect that this serves to isolate the fans and also provide some support to the shroud and prevent deflection. The vent holes in the lower right of the picture align nicely with where the A/C condenser fan blows through.
Image


The next four pictures show the shroud on the CSF radiator. The yellow material between the shroud and the radiator is what the radiator had on it for shipping. I left it on the radiator until AFTER the radiator was in the engine compartment. This keeps the fins of the radiator from getting damaged.

Bottom, passenger corner. Shown is the Qwik Valve F103N from QwikValve.com in place of the CSF drain plug. I highly recommend using this drain valve as it makes draining the fluid a no-mess project. The CSF plug will make a complete mess with radiator fluid going everywhere except where you want it. I speak from experience.
Image


Bottom, driver corner. Note the hose hook. This holds the transmission cooler hose. The yellow covers on the transmission cooler line fittings were added by me to make sure I didn't get any crud inside the piping. They are pipe thread protectors that I picked up from Ace Hardware. They also fit great inside the transmission cooler hoses to keep them from leaking fluid out. All my transmission cooler line connections had these caps on them.
Image


Top, driver corner. Note how close the fan comes to the edge of the shroud. They really did a nice job of getting as large a fan as possible and keeping it all on the shroud. All the corners were welded. Even more interesting is that all the cut edges seemed to be rounded over. There were no sharp or rough edges!
Image
 

Attachments

#2 · (Edited)
Top, passenger corner. The OEM shroud has a hose clamp on this corner. I didn't put one in. Maybe I will eventually.

Image


I had to get a 12v switched power circuit to the the SPAL relays so that the fans would ONLY come on when the ignition was on. This is NOT the main source of power for the fans. It's just a way for the relay to know that the ignition is on. You could make the fans have power all the time but I don't see the need. Plus, there is a way to over-ride the temperature probe and turn the fans on manually.

In the picture is the fuse/relay box that sits to the front of the IPDM box and to the rear of the battery. The red fuse only has power when the ignition is on. This fuse comes out.
Image


The fuse is replaced with an Add-A-Circuit gizmo. The bottom fuse is a substitute for the original fuse and the top fuse is for my new circuit that goes to the SPAL relays.
Image


The fit is really tight. It might work out better if the wire was coming out the left side instead of the right. The wire goes through an existing hole in the bottom of the box.
Image


The shroud with my wiring complete and ready to install into the engine compartment. For wire management I added (metric) bolts into existing brackets on the fans, then attached cable clips to the bolt and then a nut to hold the clip in place. I didn't want any cables coming undone and flopping around.
Image
 

Attachments

#3 · (Edited)
The shroud installed. At the top, center of the picture you can see the temperature probe. It has two lines coming into it. One is a ground and the other goes to the SPAL relay. It's hard to see it from this picture but the radiator hose is a bit kinked. The pipe that is inserted into the radiator hose (after cutting it) is too long. I'm working with The Fan Man to come up with one that fits better.
Image


The underside. The tab of the shroud fits nicely into the bracket on the radiator. Below that you can see that the Qwik Valve has plenty of room. What you can't see in this picture is the transmission cooler pipe that comes down vertically along side the shroud. The fan is in the way so the black plastic bracket at the bottom corner (see the last picture in the prior post) can't hold the line. I'm not sure what to do about that. The only thing holding the line are the hoses at the top and bottom.
Image


Another picture from the bottom. Here you can see how the hook cradles the transmission cooler line.
Image


And finally a picture with the Volant PowerCore intake tube installed. The OEM shroud was firmly against the tube with the CSF radiator in place. The new shroud is thin enough that there is no contact. In the background you can see some of the wiring. The picture was taken before I secured the wires. I also still had the CSF cap on the radiator. After filling the radiator with fluid I switched back to the OEM cap. I don't think it is a good idea to use the CSF cap.
Image


Since I don't have the right temperature probe in place I have been taking it very easy. I put about 30 miles on it today in mixed driving. The fans only came on twice. With a lower temperature probe they would have come on more frequently. I used Uprev Cipher to monitor the internal coolant temperatures while driving.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
I like it, and because I already have the CSF, I think this would be a good addition.
I am wondering why they did not create an air bypass above and below the fan?
 
#5 ·
I think the last picture in the second post should answer that question. :)
 
#6 ·
That looks awesome.

L
 
  • Like
Reactions: gweasel77
#7 ·
I've got WOOD!!! :eek:ral:

Friggin' SWEET setup, HRTKD!!!!!

This is great info!!!!!!

Nice touch on the QuikValve!

I want to do this Mod for this Summer!!!! :bandit:
 
#8 ·
That is a nice setup. I believe my permacool Efan kit is set to rite around 180-185. I can sit with truck idling and using the cad radiator my fans only come on for a min then back off for a bit. The Evans def keep the rad cooled very well.
Question, maybe I missed it but do you not have them tied into the ac compressor at all? I have mine wired so that when the compressor has 12 volts it serves as a switch to engage the fans.
I used this a ton this past year being in the west Texas desert in temps over 110. Just an FYI. I will never go back to that hell hole they call midland/Odessa area in Texas. Just had to through that out there


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#11 ·
I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post prices. Even if I did, it may not help that much. The Fan Man gave me a discount because I was the guinea pig. They will give you a complete kit. Mine was essentially complete, I just added the second SPAL relay. They spec'd it out to use just one and that probably would have worked. I went with two relays because the SPAL installation instructions for a multi-fan setup called for two relays.
 
#13 ·
Thanks! for the Great write up that is,,, that really looks great, the Purtyest fan shroud I ever saw!
 
#14 ·
Nice looking setup for sure!
Do you know if those 13 inch fans are the same ones in the other kits that are out there?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
  • Like
Reactions: gweasel77
#15 ·
Nice looking setup for sure!
Do you know if those 13 inch fans are the same ones in the other kits that are out there?
I don't know how they compare. It appears to me that you couldn't put a larger set of dual fans in the shroud unless they hung over the edge.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gweasel77
#17 ·
The fans are more efficient with a shroud. If you're sitting in traffic you need to get airflow over the entire surface area of the radiator.

Here's more info I found in a quick Google search: Custom Fan Shrouds | The Brassworks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gweasel77
#18 ·
I'm no expert on cooling systems, but it seems to me that if you put a flat sheet of metal on the back side of the radiator and put two fans on that then you may be wasting your time. The shroud I'm using stands the fans off of the radiator by about 3/4". That makes it possible for the fans to pull air through the entire radiator surface, not just a circle of air where the fans are.
 
#19 ·
Your exactly right. The same goes for mechanical fans w/o a shroud, the fan is then just slinging random air around the engine bay. I've got to find someone who can make a kit for me that's affordable. I just can't justify $600 for fans when the stock one works just fine. I've gotta guy that makes all of our ductwork for a/c systems and he makes absolute art. I may talk it over with him and see how it can happen. I think he does weld some (not usually for us) but what would you think about maybe just using rivets? Seem like that'd be plenty strong enough...


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#20 ·
If I had a choice I would take welded joints over rivets every time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nightowl
#22 ·
I know I have seen it, but I can't remember where. I saw a dual fan setup where the fans were against the radiator and they were just sent in with a frame. It was not on a Titan but I can't remember where. Wonder how well this would work.

I think it was on a Tractor (Peterbilt or Kenworth) and they sit idling for hours.
 
#23 ·
There is a thread here with that exact setup.
 
#26 ·
Talked to them today about a single Efan instead of dual. They are going to send me a drawing of it. I'll let ya know what happens.
 
#29 ·
I just completed an 800 mile round trip to Wyoming. The e-fan did fine as long as I was moving. With the 210° temperature probe the engine temp just gets too high when not moving. The e-fans do kick on at 213° as I said before.

My SPAL 195° temperature probe came in but it doesn't fit the bung in the pipe that is in the radiator hose. I spoke with The Fan Man and they are going to send me a new pipe and a SPAL 195° temperature probe. The new pipe will be shorter that the original one so I think it will fit in our radiator hose better.

During the trip I had my son log using Cipher. The sweet spot with the OEM thermostat appears to be about 188°. Meaning that it likes to stay right about there while on the highway. There was only about a 3° change either way.
 
#30 ·
Great info guys!!! Keep it coming! :hi:
 
#32 ·
Obviously i dont have one so my opinion is just that. But given how the VK56 is with everything else, 1 maybe 2 mpg for us 4x4 guys
 
#33 ·
On my recent trip I had my LT tires instead of my normal P rated tires. They are very heavy tires and I usually see up to 2 MPG decrease. I averaged 16.1 MPG. This was on winter fuel which also brings down my MPG. If Ron Davis is local to you then give that a go. I did my project remotely (Colorado vs California) and it was time consuming, but worth it. If you go with The Fan Man they've already built one so it won't take long and it will fit a CSF 3328 radiator for sure.
 
#34 ·
Still waiting for my Fumoto Drain Plug...

I can't wait to get it installed along w/ my Nismo T-Stat!!!