I was thinking that this would be a worthwhile upgrade of the Titan's cooling system. Its a Lincoln MK VIII stock electric fan and it flows up to 4500 CFM. This would be more than enough air flow even for those off-roaders and heavy haulers. It would save gas but keeping the strain off the engine that the mechanical fan causes. Here's a link.... http://www.mustangforums.com/m_5093499/tm.htm
What do you guys think?
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2005 Galaxy black XE 4X4 - NCD 2.5" leveling kit - K&N Drop in filter and airbox snorkel "chop off" mod - Goodyear Wrangler tires with Silent Armor
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For the applications you listed they work well. For those looking for extra HP it isnt the best idea. They do keep the engine from getting heat soaked at the track.
Way to expensive to be worth it and, aftermarket fans tend to be overrated on their CFM claims. I couldn't find one on the one you posted, but I would guess its somewhere at 1240 CFM. The ford fan is way cheaper, covers more area over the radiator and flows 4500 CFM.
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2005 Galaxy black XE 4X4 - NCD 2.5" leveling kit - K&N Drop in filter and airbox snorkel "chop off" mod - Goodyear Wrangler tires with Silent Armor
The dimensions are 22" X 18.5" X 6" so says a post on another site. It doesn't quite look like 6" deep. If so, it might be pretty close to the engines pulleys.
What are the dimensions for the Titan radiator?
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2005 Galaxy black XE 4X4 - NCD 2.5" leveling kit - K&N Drop in filter and airbox snorkel "chop off" mod - Goodyear Wrangler tires with Silent Armor
The M8 fan IS 6" deep, a co worker put one on the V8 S-10 that i sold him, and the fan is wicked. You better have your P&Q's right when you do the wiring because it pull's 50+ amps on start up.
I have a Lincoln MK (?) Fan in the shed. Single large steel fan. I bought it from another Titan owner, but never installed it. Wasn't quite so impressive looking in the shroud fabrication, so set it aside.....
I'd like to get a Stillen and a Permacool Fan combo as 1 purchase.
What disadvantages do Electric fans have?
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2006 XE CC Pref Pkg BT with AEM Brute Force CAI, PowerAid TB Spacer, TB Reversed Valve ByPass Mod, 2007+ Intake, JBA Headers, MagnaFlow 24" Muffler, 2008+ Rear Axle, Stillen: F & R Sway Bars, Black Diff Cover, Engine Dress Up Kit, 4 pc StreetScene SS Mesh Grille, PRG End Links, Street Traction Bars & Shackles, UpRev Osiris Tuner 93 Performance Tuned, 18" SE Rims, Functional Hood Scoop ...
If the fan is too weak, you will over heat. A 130 amp or higher alternator is required. I can't remember what ours is, but IIRC it's higher.
Quote:
Originally Posted by titanss
You better have your P&Q right when you do the wiring because it pulles 50+ amps on start up.
Remind me what P&Q means.
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2005 Galaxy black XE 4X4 - NCD 2.5" leveling kit - K&N Drop in filter and airbox snorkel "chop off" mod - Goodyear Wrangler tires with Silent Armor
It's kinda funny to me how people think that removing the engine driven frees up horsepower so much. Don't you know that the electric fan has to be powered by something. That something is your engine... driving your alternator(which has mechanical to electrical energy conversion losses).
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'02 Subaru WRX:--------~380whp T67 STI Engine/ STI Trans swapped *SOLD*
'95 M3------------------modded suspension *SOLD*
'04 Mustang Mach 1:----31 splined, 4.30 geared and Watts Linked/Tri Linked *SOLD*
I guess if our trucks had come from the factory with electric fans we would be replacing them with clutch fans. The clutch fans are more reliable and move more air. It's too bad we can't "mod" our trucks with clutch fans since they already have them.
yeah we run those and the 88-95 3.8 liter taurus fans on our stangs. you have to run a 150amp relay. the taurus fan uses the same motor on 16" fan instead of the17.5" fan on the mark VIII style. but it still pulls like 3800cfm. the mark VIII fans cost $50-100 at most junkyard where as the tauarus fans only cost about $20-30 at the junkyard.
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It's kinda funny to me how people think that removing the engine driven frees up horsepower so much. Don't you know that the electric fan has to be powered by something. That something is your engine... driving your alternator(which has mechanical to electrical energy conversion losses).
You don't know what you are talking about. The extra draw on an alternator is a minute fraction of what it takes to rotate a belt driven fan at a couple thousand RPMs.
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2005 Galaxy black XE 4X4 - NCD 2.5" leveling kit - K&N Drop in filter and airbox snorkel "chop off" mod - Goodyear Wrangler tires with Silent Armor
You don't know what you are talking about. The extra draw on an alternator is a minute fraction of what it takes to rotate a belt driven fan at a couple thousand RPMs.
Let me know how you know this. When it comes to fans.... flow is flow with an equally designed set of fan blades. Energy conversion is always less efficient. I hate to tell you but I'm right. However, the good thing about an E-fan is the ability to control it. You can put a switch on it so that you can leave it on constantly before a run to reduce fluid temps and then turn it off for the dyno run or strip run(this is how they test for "gains"). Also if you have a belt/clutch driven fan it can't be controlled and can have a catastrophic clutch failure which can tear up a radiator and/or a hood.
There are very good things about an E-fan. But flowrate for flowrate it isn't any more efficient.
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'02 Subaru WRX:--------~380whp T67 STI Engine/ STI Trans swapped *SOLD*
'95 M3------------------modded suspension *SOLD*
'04 Mustang Mach 1:----31 splined, 4.30 geared and Watts Linked/Tri Linked *SOLD*
It's kinda funny to me how people think that removing the engine driven frees up horsepower so much. Don't you know that the electric fan has to be powered by something. That something is your engine... driving your alternator(which has mechanical to electrical energy conversion losses).
I Think, in the race application, and even on the hills of a street, E fans offer 1 advantage. Increased power can be drawn from stored (battery) source, as oppossed to direct source. So, a fully charged battery gets the load, not the Pulley. So its overall load is more spread out over time engine is running, less peak load at any one moment. Thus, more HP, lower ET's.
The E Fan setup is probably lighter than the Clutch Driven Fan, so less mass turning=more wheel spinning.
FYI: Our Alternators are rated 130A. Don't recall at what RPM. There is a chart somwhere for this.
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2006 XE CC Pref Pkg BT with AEM Brute Force CAI, PowerAid TB Spacer, TB Reversed Valve ByPass Mod, 2007+ Intake, JBA Headers, MagnaFlow 24" Muffler, 2008+ Rear Axle, Stillen: F & R Sway Bars, Black Diff Cover, Engine Dress Up Kit, 4 pc StreetScene SS Mesh Grille, PRG End Links, Street Traction Bars & Shackles, UpRev Osiris Tuner 93 Performance Tuned, 18" SE Rims, Functional Hood Scoop ...
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Last edited by TitanBlue; 06-21-2008 at 03:03 PM.
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Let me know how you know this. When it comes to fans.... flow is flow with an equally designed set of fan blades. Energy conversion is always less efficient. I hate to tell you but I'm right. However, the good thing about an E-fan is the ability to control it. You can put a switch on it so that you can leave it on constantly before a run to reduce fluid temps and then turn it off for the dyno run or strip run(this is how they test for "gains"). Also if you have a belt/clutch driven fan it can't be controlled and can have a catastrophic clutch failure which can tear up a radiator and/or a hood.
There are very good things about an E-fan. But flowrate for flowrate it isn't any more efficient.
You still don't get it. The resistance on the engine to physically turn the fan is many times greater than the extra load on an alternator when an electric fan is used.
I don't know what kind of fan clutches have a "catastrophic" failure, but obviously that is cause by using improper clutch or improper installation.
The electric fan set-up that I am talking about is a Ford OE product, and the intended use would be for a daily driven vehicle. If one wanted to use it for performance benefits on the strip, more power to them, but that's not the main point here. The main point here is to replace the annoyingly load stock clutch fan, gain a couple MPG, and possibly gain a little bit of power.
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2005 Galaxy black XE 4X4 - NCD 2.5" leveling kit - K&N Drop in filter and airbox snorkel "chop off" mod - Goodyear Wrangler tires with Silent Armor
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