Hi ,
I am fairly new here and about 6 months ago installed a procomp 6 inch suspension lift . Right now I am running 285X 17 INCH BFG with Mickey Thompson classic wheels and they fit great .
I will be needing some new tires soon and wanted to buy some 35X12.5X17 tires that everyone says should fit . When I look in the front wheel well it looks like it will be close but buy all means I am NO 4x4 expert . If some people that have gone this route with their titan has gone this route please chime in so I don't waste my money on tires that rub .
Will the 35X12.50X17 inch tires fit if I leave on the stock mud flaps on ? The reason for wanting to do this is I tried removing them and when I did it was not pretty the paint underneath looks like crap and would need to be repainted .
What off set should I get on a new wheel to make this tire fit well inside of the fenders ?
You'll want to purchase a wheel that is as close to the stock wheel size as possible. My wheel/tires do not stick out too far, yet I cannot run the stock mudflap and do occasionally get some rubbing on the inner fender liner at full turn. I think my wheel specs are: -6mm offset, 4.75" backspacing.
17x9" wheels with 35x12.50-17" tires:
Here's a shot so you have an idea how far they stick out.
__________________ 2005 Nissan Titan CC SE 4x4 6" Stage 1 Procomp Lift, SAW Coilovers-Front, Bilstein 5125 Series Shocks-Rear, Total Chaos Shackles, Custom Skid Plates
35x12.50-17 Cooper Discoverer S/T's, 17x9" Xtreme Alloy 1079's, PRG Billet Drive Shaft Spacer, PRG Street Traction Bars, Hella 500 Series Driving Lights
They'll fit on the stock wheels even with just a 2" lift but you'll likely have to remove the mudflaps regardless. If you're buying new wheels, you could get something like the XD Rockstar in 18". Or check out Peytons_Titan08's post about his new sweet looking Jester wheels.
Thanks 54 warrior , your truck looks great . When your removed your mudflaps did you have a lote of paint damage underneath the flaps I took mine off to clean them and the paint looks worse than if I never had them I think my paint looks pretty bad there , was your bad as well ? Do you think the 35's made that much of a difference in heigth than the original 285's . I am looking more for the up high look verses off road performance .
Have any more pics of your truck maybe a side view ?
I have 20x9" +18 offset 2.5" leveling kit and 3" body lift which is about 5.5" lift. and had to do the pinch weld mod to clear the used 35"s I'm running and still rub on full lock on one side. I may just need to redo the pinch weld cutting. but your best bet is getting wheels that don't stick out much. pulling the mud flaps and possibly doing the pinch weld mod... search pinch weld mod or pwm and you'll find the how too's and pix and what not no I don't have mudflaps on anymore. pulled them to clear my 33"s with 17x9" 4.5" BS
__________________
05 xe 4x4
Go: aFe stg2, TBS, TB coolant bypass, flowmaster Y pipe w/borla pro XS muffler, BD PP, DT LT headers
Ext: 2.5" leveling kit, Fabtech add-a-leaf, PRG UCAs, SAW Piggybacks in rear 3" body lift, 35x12.5 toyo MTs on 20x9" +18mm offset ultrawheels titan 6 black, ventshades, headlight covers, 5% tint all around and n-fab steps, PRG traction bars
Int: wet okole seat covers front and back, custom 7" screen cut into last fold down pocket of over head console. active 3 way front stage 8" Peerless SLS woofers in doors, 4" xtant XSC/morel mids at a-pillars in glass pods (gloss black painted) and (Blau VC100 rainbow cal25 based) tweets run off an audio art 260.6xe, preamped via arc audio eq
substage always chaging, single Storm neo/neo 3hp motor'd 10" with FI soft parts in 2.5cubes ported after displacements 6" PSP port tuned to about 38hz.
For 35"s you'll need the PWM also...Or you can go extreme PWM...
__________________
Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...(Step away from the Titan)
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
3.73 Gears and TruTrac for Gription
Born 9/2004
I replaced the factory air in my tires with a Citrus scented air package...
Oh yeh....I replaced the screw that holds on the mirror with a trick black oxide one that nobody will see or care about...
You dont need a pinch weld mod for 35's with a 6" lift
yamatitan is correct tom, you dont need the pwm to fit 35's on a 6" lift. you will though probably have to take your mud flaps off. get a rim that is 4.5mm backspacing with little to no -offset. you should be fine. im running 38.5's on a 17x8 4.5bs no offset. i have 11"s of lift, but these rims had 35s on them on a 6" lift previously
__________________
2007 KC 2wd White
modswanted: UPREV ECU FLASH
BIG BRAKE UPGRADE
STEEL BRAIDED BRAKE LINES
MASTER CYLINDER STIFFNER
REMOTE START
REPLACEMENT BUMPERS
BULLETPROOF FRONT CLIP
SHACKLE FLIP THE REAR
MODS DONE!
REMOVED ALL THE DECALS,TINT, CAI, STRAIGHT PIPE EXHAUST, BALLISTIC OFFROAD JESTER'S 17X 9 -12MM OFFSET, 6" BASIC FABTECH LIFT, STACKED LEVELING KIT, 37x13x17 SUPER SWAMPER BOGGERS, 3"BODY LIFT, HITCH, 1 - 15" KICKER SOLO BARIC L7, CRUNCH 1500.1 AMP, THROTTLE BODY SPACER, PAINTED INDIGO BLUE INTAKE COVER,BURNOUT MOD,LED 3RD BRAKE LIGHT, BLUE LED'S UNDER DASH, WHITE FACE GAUGES, TB COOLANT BYPASS, AXLE VENT MOD, 2* TIMING ADVANCE, SUPERCHIPS PROGRAMMER, BLUE L.E.D. DOME LIGHT, CUSTOM MADE ROCK SLIDERS, DDM 35W 8000K LOW BEAM, DDM 35W 8K HIGH BEAM, MILE MARKER 12,000LB WINCH, 8-6" 100WATT OFFROAD LIGHTS, MY MADE LIGHT BAR, MY MADE FRONT BUMPER WITH WINCH MOUNT, LINE X BEDLINER, LINE X ROCK SLIDERS, LINE X ROCKER PANELS AND BOTTOM OF THE BED,
10.5" INGSIGNIA MOTORIZED FLIP DOWN SCREEN, SONY XPLOD W/ BUILT IN BLUE TOOTH AND AUX PORT, BACK UP CAMERA
When i first got my 6inch lift i put 35inch BFG's 12.50 on my 17inch rims with no rubbin at all, when i got my 20x10 rims with 35's i had to bend back the metal behind the finder well plastic to keep from rubbin, now it will only rub when turing and hittin a bump or what not.
When i first got my 6inch lift i put 35inch BFG's 12.50 on my 17inch rims with no rubbin at all, when i got my 20x10 rims with 35's i had to bend back the metal behind the finder well plastic to keep from rubbin, now it will only rub when turing and hittin a bump or what not.
hey what is the bs/ offset on your wheels, im looking into some moto metals, and a 6 inch pc, and dont really wanna cut the body if i dont have to? sorry dont mean to thread jack:P
with a 10 wide wheel you're gonna need a pwm regardless. you guys don't have wide wheels or hard negative offsets. I've owned/run 2 sets of tire/rim combos on my titan.. YES you will need a pwm+ to clear 35"s depending on wheel width and/or offset. if you have a 10" wide wheel like the guy above with 0 offset you get 5.5" back AND front. go look at the wheel/tire and offsets threads and see for youselves there are LOTS of guys who have 6" lifts WITH coilovers who had to do the pwm and still rub full lock. IF you have wide wheels you're gonna rub bottom line. MOST guys who lift run wider wheels or negative offsets as they like the aggressive look of tires sticking out. so imo we're both right. no you don't NEED to do the PWM IF you have the right rims... IF you don't like that crappy selection of skinney or high backspace wheels you'll buy something that requires a pwm.. and if you get something that doesn't you may rub the frame or spindles... I rub the frame with my 35"s w/20x9 +18mm wheels with 35x12.5 toyo MTs NARROW wheels are the best bet. they're also the ugliest option of all... so I didn't bother elaborating my +18mm 9" wide wheels with 35x12.5s are ugly enough imo... tall and skinney and they don't stick out wortha crap. BUT I chose them to minimize rubbing and get harassed less by cops... I don't like the real wheels with the stretched boggers 20" wide sticking way the hell out look the toyota guys run. but I don't like them fully tucked either. these wheels I have now stick out 1.25" less than my old wheels and they definitely don't look as animal.. price I paid to run taller tires. I wanted more ground clearance so I did a little more lift and taller tires... thus this result of it looking
__________________
05 xe 4x4
Go: aFe stg2, TBS, TB coolant bypass, flowmaster Y pipe w/borla pro XS muffler, BD PP, DT LT headers
Ext: 2.5" leveling kit, Fabtech add-a-leaf, PRG UCAs, SAW Piggybacks in rear 3" body lift, 35x12.5 toyo MTs on 20x9" +18mm offset ultrawheels titan 6 black, ventshades, headlight covers, 5% tint all around and n-fab steps, PRG traction bars
Int: wet okole seat covers front and back, custom 7" screen cut into last fold down pocket of over head console. active 3 way front stage 8" Peerless SLS woofers in doors, 4" xtant XSC/morel mids at a-pillars in glass pods (gloss black painted) and (Blau VC100 rainbow cal25 based) tweets run off an audio art 260.6xe, preamped via arc audio eq
substage always chaging, single Storm neo/neo 3hp motor'd 10" with FI soft parts in 2.5cubes ported after displacements 6" PSP port tuned to about 38hz.
with a 10 wide wheel you're gonna need a pwm regardless. you guys don't have wide wheels or hard negative offsets. I've owned/run 2 sets of tire/rim combos on my titan.. YES you will need a pwm+ to clear 35"s depending on wheel width and/or offset. if you have a 10" wide wheel like the guy above with 0 offset you get 5.5" back AND front. go look at the wheel/tire and offsets threads and see for youselves there are LOTS of guys who have 6" lifts WITH coilovers who had to do the pwm and still rub full lock. IF you have wide wheels you're gonna rub bottom line. MOST guys who lift run wider wheels or negative offsets as they like the aggressive look of tires sticking out. so imo we're both right. no you don't NEED to do the PWM IF you have the right rims... IF you don't like that crappy selection of skinney or high backspace wheels you'll buy something that requires a pwm.. and if you get something that doesn't you may rub the frame or spindles... I rub the frame with my 35"s w/20x9 +18mm wheels with 35x12.5 toyo MTs NARROW wheels are the best bet. they're also the ugliest option of all... so I didn't bother elaborating my +18mm 9" wide wheels with 35x12.5s are ugly enough imo... tall and skinney and they don't stick out wortha crap. BUT I chose them to minimize rubbing and get harassed less by cops... I don't like the real wheels with the stretched boggers 20" wide sticking way the hell out look the toyota guys run. but I don't like them fully tucked either. these wheels I have now stick out 1.25" less than my old wheels and they definitely don't look as animal.. price I paid to run taller tires. I wanted more ground clearance so I did a little more lift and taller tires... thus this result of it looking
well long story short, to help you out hawaiian the reason why you have to do a pwm on a wider tire, but still the same height is cause the outer part of the fender is actually smaller than the inner finder, so thus providing rubbing with wider tires. you can run 35x12.50's all day long on 6" and no rub.
__________________
2007 KC 2wd White
modswanted: UPREV ECU FLASH
BIG BRAKE UPGRADE
STEEL BRAIDED BRAKE LINES
MASTER CYLINDER STIFFNER
REMOTE START
REPLACEMENT BUMPERS
BULLETPROOF FRONT CLIP
SHACKLE FLIP THE REAR
MODS DONE!
REMOVED ALL THE DECALS,TINT, CAI, STRAIGHT PIPE EXHAUST, BALLISTIC OFFROAD JESTER'S 17X 9 -12MM OFFSET, 6" BASIC FABTECH LIFT, STACKED LEVELING KIT, 37x13x17 SUPER SWAMPER BOGGERS, 3"BODY LIFT, HITCH, 1 - 15" KICKER SOLO BARIC L7, CRUNCH 1500.1 AMP, THROTTLE BODY SPACER, PAINTED INDIGO BLUE INTAKE COVER,BURNOUT MOD,LED 3RD BRAKE LIGHT, BLUE LED'S UNDER DASH, WHITE FACE GAUGES, TB COOLANT BYPASS, AXLE VENT MOD, 2* TIMING ADVANCE, SUPERCHIPS PROGRAMMER, BLUE L.E.D. DOME LIGHT, CUSTOM MADE ROCK SLIDERS, DDM 35W 8000K LOW BEAM, DDM 35W 8K HIGH BEAM, MILE MARKER 12,000LB WINCH, 8-6" 100WATT OFFROAD LIGHTS, MY MADE LIGHT BAR, MY MADE FRONT BUMPER WITH WINCH MOUNT, LINE X BEDLINER, LINE X ROCK SLIDERS, LINE X ROCKER PANELS AND BOTTOM OF THE BED,
10.5" INGSIGNIA MOTORIZED FLIP DOWN SCREEN, SONY XPLOD W/ BUILT IN BLUE TOOTH AND AUX PORT, BACK UP CAMERA
All you guys telling him he will get no rub with 35x12.5 tires really need to give him your rim and tire specs. Otherwise he'll be rubbing.
I've got a 6" pc lift with 35" tires and cut and beat the hell out of my pinch weld. I still rub at full lock or while turning into a ditch or a curb. Its a truck , you might as well do some intentional damage to it (pinch weld) cause its gonna happen anyways (if you really use it offroad)
All you guys telling him he will get no rub with 35x12.5 tires really need to give him your rim and tire specs. Otherwise he'll be rubbing.
I've got a 6" pc lift with 35" tires and cut and beat the hell out of my pinch weld. I still rub at full lock or while turning into a ditch or a curb. Its a truck , you might as well do some intentional damage to it (pinch weld) cause its gonna happen anyways (if you really use it offroad)
17x8 4.5bs 0mm offset
__________________
2007 KC 2wd White
modswanted: UPREV ECU FLASH
BIG BRAKE UPGRADE
STEEL BRAIDED BRAKE LINES
MASTER CYLINDER STIFFNER
REMOTE START
REPLACEMENT BUMPERS
BULLETPROOF FRONT CLIP
SHACKLE FLIP THE REAR
MODS DONE!
REMOVED ALL THE DECALS,TINT, CAI, STRAIGHT PIPE EXHAUST, BALLISTIC OFFROAD JESTER'S 17X 9 -12MM OFFSET, 6" BASIC FABTECH LIFT, STACKED LEVELING KIT, 37x13x17 SUPER SWAMPER BOGGERS, 3"BODY LIFT, HITCH, 1 - 15" KICKER SOLO BARIC L7, CRUNCH 1500.1 AMP, THROTTLE BODY SPACER, PAINTED INDIGO BLUE INTAKE COVER,BURNOUT MOD,LED 3RD BRAKE LIGHT, BLUE LED'S UNDER DASH, WHITE FACE GAUGES, TB COOLANT BYPASS, AXLE VENT MOD, 2* TIMING ADVANCE, SUPERCHIPS PROGRAMMER, BLUE L.E.D. DOME LIGHT, CUSTOM MADE ROCK SLIDERS, DDM 35W 8000K LOW BEAM, DDM 35W 8K HIGH BEAM, MILE MARKER 12,000LB WINCH, 8-6" 100WATT OFFROAD LIGHTS, MY MADE LIGHT BAR, MY MADE FRONT BUMPER WITH WINCH MOUNT, LINE X BEDLINER, LINE X ROCK SLIDERS, LINE X ROCKER PANELS AND BOTTOM OF THE BED,
10.5" INGSIGNIA MOTORIZED FLIP DOWN SCREEN, SONY XPLOD W/ BUILT IN BLUE TOOTH AND AUX PORT, BACK UP CAMERA
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