Jet 69138 Powr-Flo Mass Air Sensor

[Leadsled124]

Originally Posted by TitanBlue

QShip is correct. No surprise there ...

JET advertises it as a drop in replacement, not needing any tuning. That is exactly what makes it controversial. If no tuning, then what is different? The higher flow unit UpRev sells, needs immediate tuning. OEM is about 4.5 Volt, where the Hi Flow is 2.3 or 2.6 something Volt for same near max flow...

Mine shipped to UpRev today, they will have it Tuesday, EOB.

We will have all the facts as soon as they report them. An OEM vs JET output curve. Nothing more to say until then...

Well thats cool their gunna test it. I figured it would be similar to uprevs, just not as good (after all uprev is nissan specific). Sounds likw Jet turned into an ebay company. Selling crappy products and advertising phony huge gains. No wonder why my MAF sensor i bought from then for my silverado for $370 didnt do &%$!

[Toomnymods]

Originally Posted by Leadsled124

Well thats cool their gunna test it. I figured it would be similar to uprevs, just not as good (after all uprev is nissan specific). Sounds likw Jet turned into an ebay company. Selling crappy products and advertising phony huge gains. No wonder why my MAF sensor i bought from then for my silverado for $370 didnt do &%$!

I thought you said it DID DO SOMETHING?? hehe it blew up ur engine didnt it or was it due to a other reason?

[Leadsled124]

Originally Posted by Toomnymods

I thought you said it DID DO SOMETHING?? hehe it blew up ur engine didnt it or was it due to a other reason?

Well, it may have been a contributing factor lol

[roy365]

Originally Posted by TitanBlue

QShip is correct. No surprise there ...

JET advertises it as a drop in replacement, not needing any tuning. That is exactly what makes it controversial. If no tuning, then what is different? The higher flow unit UpRev sells, needs immediate tuning. OEM is about 4.5 Volt, where the Hi Flow is 2.3 or 2.6 something Volt for same near max flow.

I thought it was around. 4.0 V for OEM at WOT? I have always wondered if i was trully going WOT now.

[TitanBlue]

Originally Posted by roy365

I thought it was around. 4.0 V for OEM at WOT? I have always wondered if i was trully going WOT now.

Oh, don't qoute me Roy, I just drive the thing! UpRev put out a number in one of these threads. I'll qoute it here if I find it. Notice I sad "about"

I always thought it would be 5 V, as 5 V is a common value in power supplies, but hey, I am just a driver.

[TitanBlue]

Hey Roy, here is part of what UpRev stated on another site:

"Sorry to break the news guys. The MAF is just a sensor, it doesn't make power. It doesn't allow for more air to get to the motor.

The only time you'd need or want to upgrade your MAF sensor on these trucks (or cars) is if you needed one that would read stable air flow over the 400whp range. Every car and truck is a little bit different, so there is no exact HP number the stock MAF will read correctly too, but it's right around the 400whp range.

You can watch it in Cipher, if you get to the 4.8v area on your MAF the ECU will fuel cut on you and the vehicle stumbles. The aftermarket PMAS MAF sensors we have are going to show roughly 2.3v at that same power level.

We recommend using the PMAS sensor for forced induction vehicles that are running over 400whp so that you have stable and reliable voltage coming from the MAF.

Side note: Nitrous kits are not going to affect the MAF reading as nitrous is an oxidizer and adds oxygen so that you don't have to flow more air to make the same HP, you just need to flow the fuel to support it.

If your truck is running any differently after you plug in this MAF, it will be because the MAF sensor voltage readings stray from the stock sensor. Those voltage readings are the direct link that all other calculations are based on in the ECU. This is not only uncontrollable, it is completely unsafe. Use that MAF sensor at your own risk.

If there is any verifiable (read that as Engine Dyno proof, not Chassis Dyno) then it is only because the truck would be running outside of tuned parameters (ie. lean)

We will not be making a MAF calibration curve for that MAF sensor at any time as it wouldn't increase power or efficiency in any way. As state above the only time you'd need to go to a different MAF sensor is if the vehicle was making more power than the stock MAF could support safely.

...Based on how the ECU calibrates every function, the MAF voltage being the base unit of measure for nearly everything, the only thing this MAF could possibly do to change the way the truck runs would be to skew things towards lean.

If your truck runs lean... what damage could possibly be done?!

...Send us a unit, we'll send you back exactly what the difference is in the curve for this MAF vs. Stock. It's pretty simple to display.

I'm telling you now though you won't be happy with the results. Hitachi makes the MAF, they only make it one way. The only thing that could be done to it to make the sensor show different voltage output based on flow (do you understand how a MAF works?) would be if they etch the sensor surface, the same thing PMAS does for our calibrated MAFs, so that they will support more flow. But to run our MAF you need to re-tune the ECU as the MAF voltage curve will be totally different.

So the only possible outcomes are:

1. Stock Hitachi MAF, you suckers are getting duped.
2. ECU would need to be retuned to safely run on the many different trucks out there.

The MAF sensor is only a sensor. It does not add or reduce power. Power is a function of the physical properties of the hard parts that comprise the drivetrain. Tuning simply allows for making those hard parts run more efficiently. Sensors simply tell the ECU what they are reading. If the ECU has not been adjusted for a change in hardparts, then it cannot react appropriately. If the ECU is fed incorrect information by a bad or changed sensor, then it cannot react safely."