This thread are for the folks which purchased DT long tube headers and about to install them themselves.
Your experience, handy tricks that helped out etc.
Place to post ideas, documentation, and pictures. (yes, the search feature is there but this will get DT group moving along).
I've seen guides for 4x2, but not 4x4 installations. Any 4x4 takers would be helpful here as well.
Thanks... i will be posting up pics and any tip i may have found during the install... i dont know when exactly i will be installing these... hopefully this weekend.
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***Dynod before headers @ 272hp 334tq***
*2004 Galaxy Black SE CC
*Rockford Fosgate Punch 200 a4
*One 10" Kicker Comp down firing
*Omega MAX-E Remote Start/Alarm with pager remote
*ECO Systems Fuel Enhancer
*Volant PowerCore CAI / Ram Air Scoop
*AIRE TBS
*2 Degree Timing advance
*Doug Thorley LT Tri Y's
*Used to have AT3030XL muffler / 3" exhaust piping from MF "Y" back ... Now back to stock exhaust
*Magnaflo HF CATS #94165
*Hoppy EasyLift Tailgate Lift Torsion Bar
*Black Alteza style tail lights
*Lund S.S. bug deflector
*NCD 2" Leveling Kit W/ Bump Stops
*Ikon shocks with 1" block in the rear and Bilsein 5100's in the front ( adjusted to middle notch)
A couple days before install, go to your local parts store(or walmart) and pick up some "PB Blast" or "Liquid Wrench" and start spraying down the studs/nuts that bolt the manifold onto the head and the manifold to the B-pipes. Do this several times throughout the day. It should help with the knuckle busting that you're in for!
mine have progressed from the front yard to the back porch we call them lanai's here... I'm leaving for honolulu tonight to go fetch my wife an 07 expedition so when I come back tuesday having mine installed is on the top of my to do list gonna check a place today, but I'm thinking I wanna get ARP locking studs and new gasket... plus I'm supposed to be getting an 08 stock exhaust with a muffler swap while I'm there so I'll have that to install in two weeks
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05 xe 4x4
Go: aFe stg2, TBS, TB coolant bypass, flowmaster Y pipe w/borla pro XS muffler, BD PP, DT LT headers
Ext: 2.5" leveling kit, Fabtech add-a-leaf, PRG UCAs, SAW Piggybacks in rear 3" body lift, 33x15.5 Swamper TSL/Sx on 16.5x14" Weld mountain crushers polished, ventshades, 5% tint all around, n-fab steps, PRG traction bars
Int: wet okole seat covers front and back, custom 7" screen cut into last fold down pocket of over head console. active 3 way front stage 8" Peerless SLS woofers in doors, 4" xtant XSC/morel mids at a-pillars in glass pods (gloss black painted) and (Blau VC100 rainbow cal25 based) tweets run off an audio art 260.6xe, preamped via arc audio eq
substage always chaging, single Storm neo/neo 3hp motor'd 10" with FI soft parts in 2.5cubes ported after displacements 6" PSP port tuned to about 38hz.
A couple days before install, go to your local parts store(or walmart) and pick up some "PB Blast" or "Liquid Wrench" and start spraying down the studs/nuts that bolt the manifold onto the head and the manifold to the B-pipes. Do this several times throughout the day. It should help with the knuckle busting that you're in for!
YES, and its much better if you do this for a week or around 3 days. LOL
you don't really need to torque since you can't really get a torque wrench in there... just tighten as much as possible... and in a few days or about 300 miles try and re-tighten them since the heat will lossen them up...
enjoy fellas!!!
__________________ 2005 Blizzard White Nissan TitanIRC CREW MEMBERInternational Racing Club VK56
YES, and its much better if you do this for a week or around 3 days. LOL
you don't really need to torque since you can't really get a torque wrench in there... just tighten as much as possible... and in a few days or about 300 miles try and re-tighten them since the heat will lossen them up...
enjoy fellas!!!
The statment in BOLD goes for any install that you do on your truck's engine or suspension!
I put in the recommendations from the opinions of several mechanics and the torque patterns for tightening then down. My self and others will not be responsible if proper torque is not applied to each nut/bolt. Uneven tightening could cause a warped or stressed heads. If I'm wrong correct me.
I'm going to make this VERY CLEAR right now. If this thread goes south I will make sure its locked and deleted. This is a fair warning and I will not be subject to what happened to 04 in the other thread (Thank you again 04 for your hard efforts and work on the group buy). I will not tolerate this, period.
This is thread is to help the folks that have purchased and are doing the installs themselves. Its not to bash folks.
Which way is best to get to the bolts to spray them, from underneath, up top, or through the wheel wells? Also does the heat shield have to be removed to get at the bolts .or can it stay on?
If the heat shields have to be removed, how would I go about doing so?
__________________
***Dynod before headers @ 272hp 334tq***
*2004 Galaxy Black SE CC
*Rockford Fosgate Punch 200 a4
*One 10" Kicker Comp down firing
*Omega MAX-E Remote Start/Alarm with pager remote
*ECO Systems Fuel Enhancer
*Volant PowerCore CAI / Ram Air Scoop
*AIRE TBS
*2 Degree Timing advance
*Doug Thorley LT Tri Y's
*Used to have AT3030XL muffler / 3" exhaust piping from MF "Y" back ... Now back to stock exhaust
*Magnaflo HF CATS #94165
*Hoppy EasyLift Tailgate Lift Torsion Bar
*Black Alteza style tail lights
*Lund S.S. bug deflector
*NCD 2" Leveling Kit W/ Bump Stops
*Ikon shocks with 1" block in the rear and Bilsein 5100's in the front ( adjusted to middle notch)
Which way is best to get to the bolts to spray them, from underneath or up top? Also does the heat shield have to be removed to get at the bolts .or can it stay on?
If the heat shields have to be removed, how would I go about doing so?
Will need to remove the fenderwell linings. They are attached by clips. Once removed you can remove the heat shields so you can spray the bolts.
I would give more advice on the install if i did it myself.
With the headers on my truck, you can see all the goodies from the top of the engine bay. I posted pics of the headers from under the truck in the original thread and the bolts are nice and visible from below as well.
Here are the pics that i have from the bottom of the truck.. you can kind of see the bolts.
ya, you don't need those heat shields if your gonna remove the manifolds. i sprayed my bolts from the fenderwell area... you can see all the bolts, but you cant get the wrench in there the whole like that...
__________________ 2005 Blizzard White Nissan TitanIRC CREW MEMBERInternational Racing Club VK56
I'm Ready!!! ( as sponge-bob would say)
i didn't know which NUT BUSTER to buy... lol ( insert joke here)
should i have gotten the blue threadlocker instead of the red?
__________________
***Dynod before headers @ 272hp 334tq***
*2004 Galaxy Black SE CC
*Rockford Fosgate Punch 200 a4
*One 10" Kicker Comp down firing
*Omega MAX-E Remote Start/Alarm with pager remote
*ECO Systems Fuel Enhancer
*Volant PowerCore CAI / Ram Air Scoop
*AIRE TBS
*2 Degree Timing advance
*Doug Thorley LT Tri Y's
*Used to have AT3030XL muffler / 3" exhaust piping from MF "Y" back ... Now back to stock exhaust
*Magnaflo HF CATS #94165
*Hoppy EasyLift Tailgate Lift Torsion Bar
*Black Alteza style tail lights
*Lund S.S. bug deflector
*NCD 2" Leveling Kit W/ Bump Stops
*Ikon shocks with 1" block in the rear and Bilsein 5100's in the front ( adjusted to middle notch)
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