Thank you for the compliments. The tent only weighs about 125lbs, so not much difference is noticed in handling outside of rear end droop when everything is loaded, planning on installing a 4" lift this winter and looking at options to increase rear spring support, either with re-arched springs w/overloads or air bags.
I was very happy with the Thule rails, makes it so I can easily remove the roof rack if i want. The Thule and Yakima rails are the same so it doesn't matter which is used. I originally ordered Yakima, but they were out of stock so i went with Thule.
The only installation complaint was that the nut zert tool broke on second zert I was installing, but I had access to a regular installation tool for the nut zert and it worked great. I would highly recommend purchasing the right tool or seeing if one can be rented instead of using the one that comes with kit. The tool I used is similar to a rivet gun and made the installation much faster and produced better results with a tighter seal than the one supplied in kit. I will post some pics of rails soon.
I used the defender rack muti mounts attached to the rails with Yakima tower installation kit. It is essentially just large square flat nuts that slide in rail and holed to muti mounts with Allen head screws. The Allen bolts that came supplied with Yakima kit were too long for this installation, so I cut them shorter with a dremel tool.
Thank you for the compliments. The tent only weighs about 125lbs, so not much difference is noticed in handling outside of rear end droop when everything is loaded, planning on installing a 4" lift this winter and looking at options to increase rear spring support, either with re-arched springs w/overloads or air bags.
I was very happy with the Thule rails, makes it so I can easily remove the roof rack if i want. The Thule and Yakima rails are the same so it doesn't matter which is used. I originally ordered Yakima, but they were out of stock so i went with Thule.
The only installation complaint was that the nut zert tool broke on second zert I was installing, but I had access to a regular installation tool for the nut zert and it worked great. I would highly recommend purchasing the right tool or seeing if one can be rented instead of using the one that comes with kit. The tool I used is similar to a rivet gun and made the installation much faster and produced better results with a tighter seal than the one supplied in kit. I will post some pics of rails soon.
I used the defender rack muti mounts attached to the rails with Yakima tower installation kit. It is essentially just large square flat nuts that slide in rail and holed to muti mounts with Allen head screws. The Allen bolts that came supplied with Yakima kit were too long for this installation, so I cut them shorter with a dremel tool.
so who makes the channels that you mounted between the rain gutter and door (3rd picture above)? is there an install manual online? i'm interested in seeing how they keep the holes you put into the roof from getting water (gasket underneath?).
They are Thule rails, although Yakima are the same. It requires drilling 1/2" holes through the roof and using nut zerts that compress into the hole similar to how a rivit would, but leaving a threaded hole to install the bolt into. The nutzerts have gasket material already bonded to them to provide the seal between them and the sheet metal. A liberal amount of silicon is then inserted into the threaded hole the bolt screws into before installing the bolt.
I read many reviews of these products before I opted to try it myself. I did not find any negative reviews regarding leaks if they were properly installed. But like anything, I'm sure the results are dependant on the quality of the install.
I also primed and painted the edges of the holes I drilled prior to installing the nut zerts to help prevent rust from forming.
What winch are you running and does your license plate swing away to give you access to the winch line? I looked around for a spring loaded license plate but couldn't find one for my setup.
I just used mag light clips and a plastic license plate frame with slotted mounting holes. The clips bolt right on to the frame and you're done. I'm good as long as no one steals the plate! lol
I don't have a roller fairlead. When I switched to synthetic rope I ditched the roller and went with the one below. It is lower profile and a lot lighter. I haven't found a license plate accessory to fit it.
As far as the max load rating, I have not experienced anything that would indicate I have overloaded the racks. I'll let you know if I ever wake up on the ground, until then, I'm confident it wont be an issue.
I may be bringing this thread back from the dead but, I am wondering how your Nissan racks and utilitrack system have been holding up to the weight? I am planning on installing a roof top tent within the next couple months and would like more info on this. If possible could you please take pictures of how the tent mounts to the factory racks. Thanks.
I really like the quality, very stout, body lines match perfect and nice bends and welds. The only thing I didn't like was the quality of the paint job, but it didn't matter to me because I had it color matched to my truck after I recieved it. It has been great and I would by again.
It makes sense that you don't have the tent mounted now. I'm sure I will figure it out. My goal is to find a used set of OEM racks and have the tent mounted in the spring. Your Titan is is sick.
If you have any updates or reviews of the things you installed let us know.
Just dropped off my template to have a dual battery tray made of stainless today. Should be done in a couple weeks. I started making the mold for a switch pod that will go in the upper dash tray. Have more lights to install but no room for switches. Also just installed a CB so I can talk with others I wheel with. Planning on installing a water tank this spring along with a hot water heater and shower. I'll keep posting updates as I progress.
I also installed the factory off-road light switch. It took some figuring on the wiring part but it looks great and took up my last factory switch location.
If I have time tomorrow I will take pictures of the tent mounts. The won't be on the rack, but you should be able to get the idea.
I dont have the P/N for the roof tracks. Just google Thule or Yakima roof rails. They are both the same. I cut about 3" off the length so I wouldn't have to make the sharper bend toward the front of the roof line.
I dont have the P/N for the roof tracks. Just google Thule or Yakima roof rails. They are both the same. I cut about 3" off the length so I wouldn't have to make the sharper bend toward the front of the roof line.
I purchased some overhead racks on ebay and they should be here next week. If you have time in the next month before I get my rtt could you please post pics of your tent mounts.
I have added four lightforce lights to the roof rack and made the wiring harnesses. I am still looking for a nav bezel to mount my switches in. The last deal I was working on fell through.
I just got a call yesturday that my dual battery tray was finally completed. The fab shop was running behind so it has taken them almost three months to get to it. I will be installing it next week along with the battery isolator and front and rear anderson plugs for the bumpers. I'll try to post some pictures soon, although once I start working on it I hate to take the time to snap any pictures. I should be mounting the tent in the next couple of weeks and will post some pic of the mounting brackets. Next on my list is to install an upgraded alternator and then I will be getting a lift. I already have the deaver packs and 5100's for the rear but need to order the front coil overs.