Location: DirtKing's fab shop,Sant Maria,and Woodlan Hills Ca.
Posts: 4,828
Thanks: 4,158
Thanked 2,261 Times in 1,400 Posts
iTrader Score: 12 reviews
Re: 2005 TITAN Prerunner Build
hope everything is ok man.
__________________ www.DirtKingFabrication.com http://legitaccessories.com/ Recognizing that I volunteered as a Ranger, fully knowing the hazards of my chosen profession, I will always endeavor to uphold the prestige, honor, and high esprit de corps of the Rangers.
Yeah its fine, its just that i have to relocate the battery to the bed, and i got a new K&N intake. The reason being, i dont have bump stops for my truck right now, so the UCA smacks the inner fender, and is really putting some big dents (It had the battery touching the hood)
So im moving the battery to the bed, i got rid of the air box and stuck a K&N filter on it, then i can cut the inner fenderwells, get some glass and measure up where the bump stops need to go!
Another big problem with it, which is why its parked in the driveway, my brake line is GUSHING fluid out on the driver side, and it needs to be replaced. So i emailed greg to see if i can order just one, or if i need to buy a pair. So for now, i have a lot to do... including finish my bumper... lol
Wish me luck!
__________________
2005 Titan XE KC 2WD w/ Dirt King Mid Travel Kit: Weighing in at 4200lbs
Truck Build:
Time to cut out the sub core support. You'll wonder why you didn't do it from the start.
Moving the battery is a 30 minute job if you still have the bed.
Do you have a Hose shop in you're area? If so take the brake line of and bring it in with you and tell you need a steel braided line in"X" length and you'll be on you're way
I think im a little in over my head, unless i start pulling body panels and checking out how im going to do it.
The battery is easy, i got the battery box, going to go get some 0 gauge from my friend at a stereo shop, and a 250 watt fuse block then just gonna run it from the standard power wire in the engine bay back to the battery.
By hose shop do you mean a normal brake shop? The line is fine, I have the extended 21" stainless steel braided lines from PRG, its just where it connects from the line to the fitting, here:
__________________
2005 Titan XE KC 2WD w/ Dirt King Mid Travel Kit: Weighing in at 4200lbs
Truck Build:
Just another update, I emailed Greg about my brake line, and he said if its one of his, then its free, if its a CST, then I can get a single one for $35 so that's not bad at all, I hope to have the truck back up and running soon!
__________________
2005 Titan XE KC 2WD w/ Dirt King Mid Travel Kit: Weighing in at 4200lbs
Truck Build:
Location: DirtKing's fab shop,Sant Maria,and Woodlan Hills Ca.
Posts: 4,828
Thanks: 4,158
Thanked 2,261 Times in 1,400 Posts
iTrader Score: 12 reviews
Re: 2005 TITAN Prerunner Build
sweet, you should post up a how to when you relocate the battery looks like ill be doing the same when i get my LT kit from DK.
__________________ www.DirtKingFabrication.com http://legitaccessories.com/ Recognizing that I volunteered as a Ranger, fully knowing the hazards of my chosen profession, I will always endeavor to uphold the prestige, honor, and high esprit de corps of the Rangers.
sweet, you should post up a how to when you relocate the battery looks like ill be doing the same when i get my LT kit from DK.
Its actually very simple, i got all the wire and fuse block today, gonna do it tomorrow, heres a basic run down:
Parts List:
Battery Box ($14 at Oreilly's)
0/1 Gauge Wire (atleast 15ft, i picked up from a stereo friend for $45)
200-250 Amp Fuse Block w/ Fuse (another i picked up from a friend for $16, reg $37)
Battery Terminals ($?)
1. Bolt your battery box to your bed (or wherever of your choosing)
2. Run the 0/1 gauge from the stock positive wires to the battery box
3. Wire up your fuse block atleast 2ft away from the battery, the closer the better.
4. Ground your battery with the 0/1 gauge anywhere of your liking, as long as it has no paint etc.
Done
__________________
2005 Titan XE KC 2WD w/ Dirt King Mid Travel Kit: Weighing in at 4200lbs
Truck Build:
Sounds like you got the battery relocation down... Only thing I did different was run an additional 2ga wire from the neg terminal of the battery to the OE negative terminal in the engine as well as the direct ground to the frame under my bed... oh yeah, I didn't throw in a fuse block, just straight 0ga wire from positive terminal to OE positive terminal...
... as for having to cut out the fender's inner metal panels, the only area you need to be cautious with is to be careful of the brake lines under the Master Cylinder... I found that one of my lines has actually been slightly crushed oval by the prior full impacts, causing the UCA to push the inner fender well up against the brake lines... I'm eventually going to re-run those OEM brake lines away from under the Master Cylinder... but that's waaaaay down the road...
Sounds like you got the battery relocation down... Only thing I did different was run an additional 2ga wire from the neg terminal of the battery to the OE negative terminal in the engine as well as the direct ground to the frame under my bed... oh yeah, I didn't throw in a fuse block, just straight 0ga wire from positive terminal to OE positive terminal...
... as for having to cut out the fender's inner metal panels, the only area you need to be cautious with is to be careful of the brake lines under the Master Cylinder... I found that one of my lines has actually been slightly crushed oval by the prior full impacts, causing the UCA to push the inner fender well up against the brake lines... I'm eventually going to re-run those OEM brake lines away from under the Master Cylinder... but that's waaaaay down the road...
I would do that, but i think its too much hassle to run it all the way up front just to ground it to the block, i think its a waste of wire, but thats just my 0.02
And i heard you need the fuse within 2 feet of the battery or else bad doo doo will happen.
And yeah ill be careful of the brake lines, i think im just going to double check where im cutting, then take the plasma cutter to it .
Did you move your ecu stuff at all? Im thinking about it because cutting out the inner fender will get rid of the mounts for the box etc, but im not entirely sure how im going to do it right now.
__________________
2005 Titan XE KC 2WD w/ Dirt King Mid Travel Kit: Weighing in at 4200lbs
Truck Build:
Didn't move anything on the passenger side... I just cut off the bottom post off of the little relay/fuse box that's connected to the battery box, then zip tied it to the ECU harness... then pull the entire battery tray out...
See but my a-arm smacks right underneath my ecu I had to unbolted and move it while I smacked the fender with a hammer to bend it back to where it was suppose to be.
__________________
2005 Titan XE KC 2WD w/ Dirt King Mid Travel Kit: Weighing in at 4200lbs
Truck Build:
considering the coilovers your running + the arms you got from nick, i'm not surprised. lol, your gonna be hacking it up the front end anyways, might as well do it now
__________________ 2011 White CC pro4x
Flowmaster Y
Banks Muffler
Airaid MXP 4" Intake
PRG UCA's
Extended travel Sway-Away 2.5 coilovers
PRG Camber Bolts
Homemade Traction Bars
Fuel Boost 18x9
Nitto Terra Grapplers 295/70 18
Front BORA 1.25 Wheel Adapters/ Pinch Weld Mod
6K HID's
10" Sub/Kenwood Amp
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.