I've now done this twice, so I figured I should post up some pictures that might help someone else out. It's kind of a pain, but not all that bad once you figure out what you are doing. Getting the factory amp out of the way makes replacing the actuator much easier. I couldn't figure it out the first time I did this. I also purchased the wrong actuator, so I just took the old one out and left it that way. My defrost didn't work all that well, so I decided to get back under there and finally replace the actuator.
Here's how I replaced the actuator. My truck is a 2006 LE with NAV and the rockford fosgate system
1. Remove the front seat by removing the trim pieces and the four 14mm bolts. Mine also had 3 harnesses connected underneath.
2. Remove factory sub
3. Unbolt gas pedal by removing three 12mm nuts.
I threw a pillow down there the driver's seat was and did the rest of this with my head under the dash and my feet hanging out the driver's side door. I had a decent sized work light laying in the floor beside me to get some light under there.
4. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the black box in, then disconnect the three wiring harnesses and set the black box off to the side.
5. Remove the three or four 10mm bolts holding the amp in place then disconnect the two wiring harness on the amp.
6. Getting the amp out is the trickiest part. You need to push it up and towards the driver's side of the truck to get it off the rails. It's a really tight fit, but it will go. This is how it will look off the rails. Sorry for the blurry pic.
7. Remove the amp. You may have to disconnect a few more wiring harnesses that are in the way and slide the gas pedal around. Here's what that thing looks like when you finally get it out.
8. You should have easy access to the actuator now. There are two 9/32 screws and one 7/32. The wiring harness is on the top of the actuator. I had to use an open ended wrench on one of the screws because the amp rail was in the way.
9. I ran my truck for several months with no actuator in place. In that time, the white piece that the actuator gears go into had come out of place. I removed the two 7/32 screws that are just below the actuator for better access. You can see one of them in the bottom left of the above pic. I also unplugged the lower actuator because its wires are attached to the piece I needed to move. Here's what it looks like.
10. It took me a while to figure out how to get the white piece lined up because it actually controls two levers. After getting the greasy white piece back in place and the two levers on track, replace the black piece that covers it and insert the two 7/32 screws.
11. Now you need to get the gears on the actuator turned the right way, so that it will line up with the gears on the white piece. Look at the gears on the white piece and figure out where the keyed piece needs to be on the actuator to get it in there. I had to plug in the black box from step 4 to get the truck to turn on. I then plugged in the actuator and turned the key. When the actuator got where I wanted it, I disconnected the actuator wiring harness and turned the truck off. If you just turn the truck off, the actuator will sometimes keep spinning. I then mounted the actuator by replacing the 3 screws, then plugged its wiring harness back in.
12. Replace the amp, black box, gas pedal, and any other wiring harnesses you had to disconnect.
13. Replace the sub then the front seat.
14. Your airbag light will probably be on, so you will need to go through the procedure outlined here to get it off.
Air bag light?
This took me about 2 hours this time. I think I could get it done in an hour and a half or so if I had to do it again. Getting that amp out of the way makes it much, much easier to get to the actuator.