Broken Tailpipe Leads to Big Problems - What Now?

Synchro · 07-14-2010, 10:20 AM

Hey guys, for the last few months I noticed an occasional rattle underneath the truck but didn't think much of it. Last weekend, en route to a campground pulling a travel trailer, I pulled over at a rest stop for a short break. On the way back from the restroom, I noticed my tailpipe was practically dragging on the ground. The mounting flange had completely rusted away from the muffler, which is apparently a common problem. I threw the tailpipe in the muffler and kept on driving.

Throughout the weekend, the SLIP and ABS lights were on, which I had seen before when I had the brakes replaced. Fast forward to Sunday, towing the trailer back home. After pulling up a big hill on the interstate, all of the gauges went dead, the engine cut out, and 4WD was engaged. Luckily I made it up the hill and pulled over in a safe spot. I crawl under the truck and find all of the wires melted on the right rear side, downstream of the muffler. The trans was locked in park, the engine tried to turn over but couldn't start, and the hazard lights wouldn't turn on.

So now the truck's in the shop, needing a fix for the exhaust and probably a new ECU, since the mechanic said he couldn't get the diagnostic computer to communicate with the ECU.

My question is, should I get a stock replacement tailpipe, or should I go all the way and get an aftermarket exhaust system? I use the truck mainly for towing, so I don't want to lose any low end torque, and I'd like to increase my mileage if possible, because it is really terrible when towing the trailer.

yelton720 · 07-14-2010, 10:29 AM

Dang that sucks man, but since your going to need new exhaust system I say go ahead and run true duals.... depending on the sound you want I have FM 50 but I got a dynomax bullet on its way..

baseballfanz · 07-14-2010, 10:42 AM

You can go with aftermarket and not loose any low end. Just make sure the pipes are not too big (the JBA seems to be a good stock replacement).

I'm sure once you fix the melted harness the ECU will be OK. If not you might just need a new ECU relay or IPDM board.
Highly doubt the ECU is fried.

Synchro · 07-14-2010, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baseballfanz

You can go with aftermarket and not loose any low end. Just make sure the pipes are not too big (the JBA seems to be a good stock replacement).

I'm sure once you fix the melted harness the ECU will be OK. If not you might just need a new ECU relay or IPDM board.
Highly doubt the ECU is fried.

That's good to hear about the ECU. About the exhaust, I was under the impression that larger diameter tubing will only help high-RPM performance, but I'd rather have a bump in the low end range.

On a side note, the trailer I pull is just over 7,000 pounds, and I usually get 6-7 mpg when towing it, even keeping it under 60 mph most of the time. Does that sound about right? Because it seems pretty awful to me.

baseballfanz · 07-14-2010, 12:35 PM

Yeah thats why i stated to make sure the pipes are not to big as that will cause low end lost.
I dont tow pn not sure if 6mpg is home or bad but i only get about 11 to 12 around town.

sudden urge · 07-14-2010, 01:20 PM

If you are towing a lot, most, if not all aftermarket catbacks will drone badly in the cab and drive you insane. Have a local muffler shop install a 4" long sleeve over the section where the rusted flange used to be.

Synchro · 07-14-2010, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sudden urge

If you are towing a lot, most, if not all aftermarket catbacks will drone badly in the cab and drive you insane. Have a local muffler shop install a 4" long sleeve over the section where the rusted flange used to be.

If that's the case, then forget the aftermarket exhaust. I had planned on having the tailpipe sleeved in the event that an aftermarket setup wouldn't be the best. Good to hear the same advice. I wouldn't want to throw the money into a new exhaust if I didn't have to, especially since I'm considering trading up to a new Ford Super Duty.

electricjohn · 07-16-2010, 07:06 PM

Had the same thing happen to me about 2 years ago, but not with the catastophic results you had. Used the truck for about a month without a tail pipe. The only wires that melted on me were the 2 going to the wheel spin sensor, setting off the ABS and SLIP light. The heat also damaged the plastic conduit around the harness too. Was able to make all repairs myself.

johnnyscarecrow · 07-18-2010, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synchro

Hey guys, for the last few months I noticed an occasional rattle underneath the truck but didn't think much of it. Last weekend, en route to a campground pulling a travel trailer, I pulled over at a rest stop for a short break. On the way back from the restroom, I noticed my tailpipe was practically dragging on the ground. The mounting flange had completely rusted away from the muffler, which is apparently a common problem. I threw the tailpipe in the muffler and kept on driving.

Throughout the weekend, the SLIP and ABS lights were on, which I had seen before when I had the brakes replaced. Fast forward to Sunday, towing the trailer back home. After pulling up a big hill on the interstate, all of the gauges went dead, the engine cut out, and 4WD was engaged. Luckily I made it up the hill and pulled over in a safe spot. I crawl under the truck and find all of the wires melted on the right rear side, downstream of the muffler. The trans was locked in park, the engine tried to turn over but couldn't start, and the hazard lights wouldn't turn on.

So now the truck's in the shop, needing a fix for the exhaust and probably a new ECU, since the mechanic said he couldn't get the diagnostic computer to communicate with the ECU.

My question is, should I get a stock replacement tailpipe, or should I go all the way and get an aftermarket exhaust system? I use the truck mainly for towing, so I don't want to lose any low end torque, and I'd like to increase my mileage if possible, because it is really terrible when towing the trailer.

I don't mean to laugh, but the EXACT same thing happened to me when we moved from SC to MA. I was towing the car loaded up with the last of our stuff on 77N, we made it to mile 3 in VA and the whole truck shut off.

They replaced a sensor for the throttle, the rear harness and the tailpipe. $1200 at the dealership in Wytheville, VA.

We ended up dropping the other car off the trailer, driving that North and I flew back to VA a few days later.

Titan410 · 07-24-2010, 01:41 PM

I just had a similar issue. Got back from a 600 mile round trip and pull in the driveway. 15 minutes later I go out to pull the truck out of the drive and back it in to unload the bed. The gear selector wouldn't come out of Park. So i pop the access cover and stick a Leatherman down to manually allow the selector out of park. Take the truck to the Dealer and they said the rear wiring harness had melted and, "Oh, by the way, your tailpipe is not connected to your muffler."
Good news is the new wiring harness was covered by the Gold extended warranty, but the bad news is the tailpipe wasn't covered. Dealer wants $875.00 to fix the tailpipe!

Truck is an '05 with 52,000 miles.
First picture is my truck. The second is from another thread/truck with a $20 fix I am going to try.

VK56DEHAN · 07-24-2010, 01:59 PM

ya screw that...even if you were not to do the quick fix, you could buy a VERY nice full catback system for a little less than 875.

hawkeye35 · 10-19-2010, 12:39 PM

I had a similar issue with the exhaust weld breaking and the tailpipe came up into the fender and caused over $1000 worth of damages (melted plastic, etc). If I would have had combustibles in the bed, the truck would have been a total loss.

The design of the tailpipe and exhaust hanger is flawed.

My recommendation is everyone with this problem to contact NHTSA at https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ and file a complaint. If enough complaints are received, a recall may happen which would allow you recourse of getting your expenses reimbursed.

GreyStorm · 10-25-2010, 11:13 PM

i just bought a jba catback when mine went and the muffler shop wanted 150 to fix that one section.

BobNYC · 10-26-2010, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawkeye35

My recommendation is everyone with this problem to contact NHTSA at https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ and file a complaint. If enough complaints are received, a recall may happen which would allow you recourse of getting your expenses reimbursed.

My flange rusted through a couple of weeks ago. Fortunately no other damage resulted as I caught it in time. Nevertheless, I have requested the form and plan to file a complaint with the DOT.

Complaint filed: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complai...e&refurl=email

jlacey77 · 05-28-2011, 07:58 AM

I was recently taking a trip up 77 north from SC to OH. I noticed I was getting terrible gas mileage, but paid no mind because I was pulling an 18' enclosed trailer (but it was empty). Not far from the VA state line I noticed my abs, slip light was on and became concerned because I just installed power stop full ceramics and drilled/slotted rotors ( I love em btw ). Next thing you know I was headed up the mountain when I lost power, all kinds of idiot lights came on and I pulled over. The truck would not start back up at this time. I exited the truck and found my tail pipe hanging w/ all of my wires melted together in the harness. After aprox 30 min i tried to start the truck and it started but would not go into gear or increase rpm(limp mode). I called a rollback to take me to Nissan in Mt. Airy, NC ($100). The dealership said $1000 to replace the harness and then they could check for other probs such as ECM($100). Hotel across the street ($115). So rollback guy hauled truck and trailer back to Lancaster, SC($350). I spliced all wires together after I disconnected the battery. Truck is in fail safe mode still. Anyone know how to reset this? Please help. Anyone know how long it takes to replace the chasis harness?