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Old 12-07-2004, 11:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Unbelievable....Brakes warped again in 500 miles

My brakes warped again! I had them serviced by the TSB, and after 500 miles, they are vibrating again when I press on the brakes. I am starting to get fed up. I like the truck, but can't stand the brakes doing this every time.
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Old 12-07-2004, 11:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If my rotors warp, I'm buying some aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors. No reason to waste time letting Nissan attempt to fix the problem.
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Old 12-07-2004, 11:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endurance56
My brakes warped again! I had them serviced by the TSB, and after 500 miles, they are vibrating again when I press on the brakes. I am starting to get fed up. I like the truck, but can't stand the brakes doing this every time.
Hang in there. They know theres a problem and they are working on it. I've seen some rumors of a brake recall in early spring.
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Something to try?

Just a quick question to those people who are having frequent rotor warping problems. Are you making frequent moderate to hard stops, then holding the brakes? For example, you hit the brakes moderately hard coming up to a stop light, then keep the brakes depressed until the light turns green. If so, this could be exacerbating the warpage problem. If you hit the brakes hard, you heat up the discs. Once you come to a stop, the areas of the disc that are open to the air cool off faster than the area under the clamping forces of the *also* hot disc pads. This uneven cooling can accelerate, or even cause, the warping of already weak (translation: el cheapo) factory rotors.

This was a very common problem with the VW model I owned before buying this truck. I went through 2 sets of rotors before I read a tip suggesting that I lift up on the brakes after hard stopping to let the rotors cool evenly. After I started implementing this tactic, I went 50k miles without even a hint of rotor warp. Of course, YMMV, but it's at least something to try.
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endurance56
My brakes warped again! I had them serviced by the TSB, and after 500 miles, they are vibrating again when I press on the brakes. I am starting to get fed up. I like the truck, but can't stand the brakes doing this every time.
What did they do to the brakes exactly? Replace rotors, pads, grease parts?
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Old 12-07-2004, 12:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endurance56
My brakes warped again! I had them serviced by the TSB, and after 500 miles, they are vibrating again when I press on the brakes. I am starting to get fed up. I like the truck, but can't stand the brakes doing this every time.
Are you certain they performed the whole TSB? Try looking at the invoice and see if there is a list of items replaced and work performed and match it with the TSB. Did they also perform the procedure to seat, burnish the pads you know the one where they drive and stop and drive and stop for a number of times and miles?
To have this repeated after 500 miles may be they did not perform the whole procedure or something else may be causing the problem. I got 10K on mine and it brakes excellent no vibration no soft pedal. Sorry to hear about your problem I can imagine how you feel I would be upset. Let us know how it goes.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you warp your rotors you must replace them to effectively reduce the chance of the rotors warping again.

Turning rotors and having them resurfaced will not fix the problem. It will merely flatten a bad rotor. Bad rotors will only get worse with more time. Thus, you will have shuddering brakes again in no time at all. Replace the rotors, check your lug-nut torque and drive. Thats the only thing you can do.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I throw my car in neutral at lights where I had to brake even slightly harder than normal and let off the brake pedal. 250 miles so far and im not taking any chances. If a light is at a gentle slope, I put the ebrake on with the car in neutral.

I hate hate hate letting anyone else touch my cars, even for warranty work. I like to do all the wrenching period. Hopefully if I ever need something replaced, they will be content with giving me the new parts and let me be on my merry way.
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Old 12-07-2004, 01:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How many miles before brake judder, I'm at 5600 miles another guy at work has 12k and no brake problems yet. Our trucks where built in July 04. Hope we don't have an problems.
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Old 12-07-2004, 02:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Got it first at 10K.
Did revised TSB (revised pads/new torque member/resurface rotors/KY jelly) at about 12K.
Have 21K and no hint of judder. The lug nuts are properly torqued. I believe this point to be key.
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Old 12-07-2004, 02:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eraz3r
...check your lug-nut torque...
I agree with this one!
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Old 12-07-2004, 02:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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We've seen these rotors warping in less then 6 months!

The popular magazines gave the Titan high marks on it’s hauling capabilities however, they did stay long enough to see how the brakes hold up to stopping these loads month after month.

Removing metal from the fiction surfaces to re-true the rotors is only a quick fix. But, it’s the only way to re-true the friction faces. When the brakes are subjected to the same stopping forces that caused the problem in the first place and now with less mass in the rotor, although small, there is a reduction in rotors’ ability to absorb the heat generated.

Not many owners understand the problems with cast-iron. ART doesn’t see these factory parts as "defective". However, Nissan is not using the latest sciences and technology to reduce “Austenite” in the cast-iron.

Deep cryogenic is a Cryo-Treating process. It's a complex process but, performed properly it promotes better heat absorption in cast-iron by reducing the properties of Austenite and porosity by changing these weaker deposits in the iron into more uniform particles know as" Martensites". With the addition of gas-porting the friction faces of the brake rotors and employing brake pad materials like Carbon or Kevlar the stopping power will dramatically improve.

Owners who don't use their trucks to tow trailers, carrying work tools or heavy loads are experiencing warped rotors too. This is nothing new to truck owners.

Last edited by JayC; 12-08-2004 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 12-07-2004, 02:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ever notice that some tire stores have signs in the service area stating "we hand tighten wheel lug nuts", but then you see the mechanic hammering away with a heavy duty impact driver? Since you just about can't loosen the nuts by hand, you can bet the torque was in excess of 85-95ft-lbs! I hate when that happens.
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Old 12-07-2004, 02:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Your correct Tony, torque is very important!
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Old 12-07-2004, 06:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Titan
Are you certain they performed the whole TSB? Try looking at the invoice and see if there is a list of items replaced and work performed and match it with the TSB. Did they also perform the procedure to seat, burnish the pads you know the one where they drive and stop and drive and stop for a number of times and miles?
To have this repeated after 500 miles may be they did not perform the whole procedure or something else may be causing the problem. I got 10K on mine and it brakes excellent no vibration no soft pedal. Sorry to hear about your problem I can imagine how you feel I would be upset. Let us know how it goes.
Here is what the paper work shows..

41060-7S027 pad kit = disc
41014 - 7S010 member - torque
41005-7S000 BOLT
40135 - 7S025 BOOTKIT - FRONT

And I never had warped rotors on any car except this one.
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