Best way to find a good price on a Titan

[Barnabus]

I just completed an internet deal in Houston. I bought a Titan LE, CC from the internet manager of my neighborhood dealer. I sent out a quotes RFQ with a 3 day buy period and had 5 people calling me in a matter of hours. Bought at month end after closing hours for $850 under invoice. No trade, no financing. In fact another dealer in Houston had posted on their web site in February all month $3450 off MSRP. It was the bench mark for what I did at 10:30PM 2-28-04. Its worth doing some homework on how the game is played as each dealer has its supply-demand quotient.

[Memphis4x4]

Originally Posted by Barnabus

I just completed an internet deal in Houston. I bought a Titan LE, CC from the internet manager of my neighborhood dealer. I sent out a quotes RFQ with a 3 day buy period and had 5 people calling me in a matter of hours. Bought at month end after closing hours for $850 under invoice. No trade, no financing. In fact another dealer in Houston had posted on their web site in February all month $3450 off MSRP. It was the bench mark for what I did at 10:30PM 2-28-04. Its worth doing some homework on how the game is played as each dealer has its supply-demand quotient.

Was your vehicle in stock and take immediate delivery? Or did you have to order and wait?

[AJfireman]

I bought my Titan LE King with the Big Tow Pkg., splash gaurds and mats for $133.00 over Edmunds.com invoice price. I originaly only wanted an LE King with splash and mats, but after checking dealer inventories here in Arkansas, there were only three in the state. One of the dealers here in AR is advertising $2200 off all Nissan inventory, so I E-mailed the three dealers asking them to beat $2200. Only one E-mailed me with an offer, the other two just E-mailed sales talk. The offer was $2400 of MSRP. I called the dealership to make sure they still had the truck in inventory. Of course the said they did. When I got there, the truck had been dealer transfered. They tried to locate another one. There was only one left in the state. I knew the one they wanted to try to get. I was leaving to visit the other dealer when they offered another $400 off for one they had in stock with the big tow pkg. After I thought about it, the tow pkg. for $450 didn't sound like a bad deal. I bought the truck. When I checked Edmunds with the numbers, it came to $133 over invoice. I am completely satisfied with the deal.

[Iballz401]

I have been reading all the replies to getting the best deal and I think I have the best one of all. I fax all the dealers in my state saying that I am ready to buy the Titan right NOW. I give them the invoice price of the particular model I want, MSRP and all the options as well as letting them know what the holdback is. I do it at the end of the month when they are a little bit more willing to agree to a slim profit deal and sit by my phone and wait for them to fight over who gets my business and in a short time I get the best possible deal at the time. Kind of like PriceLine for cars. I did not originate this concept. I got it from a website called "Fightingchance.com". I never waist my time haggling, I just come in and pick up the car.
As a result, I got a Titan Crew Cab LE fully loaded with everything including NAV system, sunroof, and theater system for 400 over invoice. I sat in my office and let the dealers call me with their offers and picked it up the next day!!! I never met the dealer or walked into their dealership until I picked up the car.

[coco]

I have found this thread to be very informative, and would like to thank everyone for the information and advice given here.

I closed the deal on my new Titan XE with the prefered package last night @ 500 over invoice and will take delivery over the weekend. Very excited.

Using the dealer internet sales seems to be the way to go as they are much more willing to focus on price. Edmunds and several dealers said that in GA the Titan sells for MSRP. Carsdirect.com quoted 2000 over invoice. I found one dealer advertising 750 over invoice but he was trying to stick dealer options on top of this such as origination fee, paint treatments, etc. So I'm happy with the deal I got, plus negotiating via email and phone was much easier than the high pressure stuff onsite.

Thanks again everyone.

[Kyle]

Here is my personal reccomendation: NissanUSA.com is very helpful, because it is typically very accurate of the inventory at a given dealership. If something was sold in the past 2-3 days it typically doesn't show, but items expected to come in in 2-3 days do show. So there may be some vehicles on there that are not physically at the lot.

1. Do your research. Go to edmunds.com and find the invoice of the particular vehicle you are looking at.

2. While at Edmunds, find the value of your trade, if you have one. I have found that edmunds is BY FAR the most accurate at determining trade-in value. It's been dead on for several I have looked at after customers have left.

3. You and whoever else is deciding on the vehicle, determine AHEAD of time values you find acceptable. Realize that a dealer will rarely go below invoice, and typically $100 over is the lowest you will get. Pick a LOW, MED and HIGH number. Say maybe, if they get to MED or LOW we will take it, if they get to HIGH we will think about it.

4. Your best chance to get a deal like this is to go in. Some dealers are hesitant to let their best deals go on the internet, because people will print it off and go to the closest dealer and get that price.

5. BE FRIENDLY! Sales Associates and Managers are much more likely to give a good deal to a friendly person than a rude person. You may think it all comes down to money, but if someone's a jerk, they're not going to get a car at invoice.

DON'T BE SCARED!! It's not a hard thing if you do it right. Good Luck!!

[Boone-Titan]

Originally Posted by Half Shovel

For those looking to get good information about what you should pay for your new Titan, go to kbb.com (kelly blue book). Click "build a car" on the left frame, and price out your Titan. Make sure you turn off any popup blocking software, as it is part of the site's engine for calculating prices. You should be able to find out exactly what invoice price is. Frankly, there's no reason to pay any more than 3-400 over invoice these days.

Just picked up mine last Saturday for $400 over invoice and negotiated the Gold preferred extended warranty 7yr/100,000miles for $1300. It is all about knowing where you stand in the deal and not getting over excited until after the deal has closed. Walking away must be a real option your willing to take if the sales manager will not make your deal. Just remember nothings free and they have to eat to so have a realistic offer and the information to defend it.

[goathead]

ok, listen up. i dont pretend to be an expert negotiator or anything, but what i do know is if you want to get the best deal possible(who doesnt) then all you need to know is www.fightingchance.com . now i do not work for them but i have used their system twice and each time i saved 4 grand ($4,000) off sticker. the reason this is better than anything that i have found elsewhere is it not only gives you the invoice price, which by the way is available on most sites. it also gives you info on holdback(the percentage the dealer makes from the manufacturer), incentives(as listed in Car Deals, a bi-weekly printout of all manufacturers and current rebates/financing info) as well as depreciation, crashtests etc... the best thing about this is it tells you how to negotiate this great deal. im sure we have all seen the internet banking commercials "when banks compete, you win" well it can work that way when you buy a vehicle also. i faxed every dealer in Missouri and they called me with offers. when round one was done i called them back to tell them what the low bid was and they either will deal some more or say good luck. And when all is said and done you KNOW that you did everything you could to make an informed purchase and got the best deal possible.

[ChuhBaca]

I've seen Consumer Report advertise a service that sounds very similar to fightingchance. I don't know how detailed their report is, but if I remember correctly, the cost is around $10-$12. Should be on their website.

[Bonefish]

I just ordered an LE. All I wanted was the tow package and the bed divider. I couldn't find it. So I called around and one dealer took my order at tissue (invoice). Same number that came up in www.KBB.com. Hopefully it comes in the 6 to 8 weeks as promised. This is now week 4.

Small dealer in Hightstown NJ took the deal.

[FRD ETR]

goathead: could you pm me or post the dealers you found the best deal from? I live in the bootheel so I plan on checking a couple of states starting in late april. But it would be nice to have some "suspects" to start with.

Thanks in advance for the help.


Trent

[TRUTITAN]

Originally Posted by JetForeman

If I came back to see you, chances are you wouldn't be there anyway. Besides, why would I want to come back and see you??? If I have a problem my new best friend will be the service manager, now he/she is the one that can make or break the ownership experience....Car salesmen that stay more than a few months with one dealer are rare. Most everyone I've ever dealt with had only been there a few months and only doing it until they can get a better job. The reputation of the car salespeople is their own fault. While they're smiling and shaking your right hand, their left hand is digging in your wallet, low balling you on your trade-in, playing games with the price of the vehicle, interst rates, service plans, etc. etc. Now tell me that you've ever told anyone in the past that "they could do better if they held out a little longer"??? The only "rude" buyers are those who know better.......

SOMETHING TELLS ME YOUR ONE OF THE ONES THAT" KNOW BETTER "
THE BOTTOM LINE IS PICK A CAR SALESMAN LIKE YOU WOULD ANY1 ELSE THAT YOU DO BUSINESS WITH... THERE ARE BAD ONES AND A GOOD ONES JUST LIKE IN ANY OTHER PROFESSION...BUY FROM A SALESMAN AND DEALER THAT WAS REFERRED TO YOU BY SOME1 YOU TRUST... I AM A SALESMAN FOR A NISSAN DEALERSHIP, SO I CAN TELL YOU THAT MOST DEALERS PAY SALESMAN $100.00 FOR A SALE THAT RESULTS IN $800 OVER INVOICE, SO WHEN YOU GUYS ARE BEATIN US UP FOR YOUR BEST DEAL, WHICH IS WHAT I WOULD DO(AND HAVE DONE) IF I WAS BUYING A CAR...BACK TO MY POINT AFTER TAXES AND FICA AND ALL THE OTHER STUFF WE NET ABOUT A 60-65 DOLLAR COMMISSION FOR THAT SALE.. FOR $65.00 I DONT PUT UP WITH MUCH CRAP AND NEITHER WOULD YOU... DONT FEEL SORRY FOR ME I MAKE A LIVING... BUT DONT EXPECT PEOPLE TO KISS YOUR AXXES AND THEM NOT MAKE ANYTHING....THE EASIEST WAY TO BUY A CAR IS TO MAKE AN OFFER THAT YOU FEEL IS ACCEPTABLE AND STICK TO YOUR GUNS(BE A LITTLE FLEXABLE)...ANYWAY THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS OUT THERE BUYING TITANS, NO MATTER HOW MUCH WE MAKE...WE APPRECIATE YOUR BUSINESS

PS: I HAVE TOLD PEOPLE ABOUT BETTER DEALS WHERE I MADE LESS MONEY... i.e. SPECIALS ADVERTISED THAT THEY DIDNT KNOW ABOUT

PEACE

[Bassman3]

just picked up my Titan LE loaded and got it for 3000.00under msrp without a hassel i was happy and so was my sellsman

[TRUTITAN]

Originally Posted by ChuhBaca

I've seen Consumer Report advertise a service that sounds very similar to fightingchance. I don't know how detailed their report is, but if I remember correctly, the cost is around $10-$12. Should be on their website.

REMEMBER TO NEGOIATE WITH THEM BEFORE YOU PAY THE $10-$12...ASK THEM WHAT INVOICE IS FOR THEIR SERVICE...LOL

[TITAN305]

Does anyone know about or bought thru the Business Associate Vehicle Purchase Program or VPP I qualify but I don't know anything about it.