Roadmaster Active Suspension - Page 2

LoveHammer · 10-27-2009, 12:07 PM

I have the Roadmaster AS system on my truck. I do just "normal" offroading. You know, getting to fishing spots, driving on the hunting lease, across pastures, rain ruts, creeks, dirt roads, occasional muddy dirt road, that kind of thing. I'm not desert running or flexing it out rockcrawling or anything hardcore. Just letting you know how I use my truck so you know where I'm coming from. I've been trying to think of a downside to the setup and I really can't come up with one. It doesn't make the ride stiffer when unloaded (FYI the damn 5100 rear shocks DO make the ride stiffer). If anything it helps handling, it almost feels like there's a swaybar on the back. I've put a quad in the bed, along with hunting gear, 200lbs of corn, and an ice chest full of beer (most important item) and had little to no squat. I also tow fairly heavy livestock trailers without any sway or squat. I was going to go with the airbags (firestone or similar), but I got a deal on the AS system on ebay, $60 new. I took a gamble and bought it and I'm glad I did.

Jiro · 10-28-2009, 09:55 AM

Thanks for the review lovehammer. Exactly what I was looking for

Nuke · 10-28-2009, 11:26 AM

Nothing bad to say about the RAS, I looked into them. In the end, I decided to get air springs (Air Lift Ride Control) instead. My reasoning was that I wanted to be able to have the factory spring rate for daily driving. In your case, for continuous light hauling I wouldn't hesitate to try the RAS. The Ride Control kit costs about 200 bucks. RAS is about 225. Just another idea.

krickett · 10-28-2009, 01:27 PM

I have to echo all of the positive reviews about the Roadmaster system. I've been quite impressed with it and it's probably the best ~$270 i've spent on the truck. I picked up the HD version of the kit.

First, why the springs as opposed to airbags. Easy. Simplicity. I didn't want to have to deal with the maintenance of airbags and have to install a compressor to easily adjust truck height. I wanted something i could basically set and forget. I got enough to worry about each weekend loading the race trailer. Airbags also provide no stabilization/sway control like the roadmaster springs do. Hauling loads in the bed i'm glad to have the springs because i can safely make the emergency maneuvers i need to make to avoid the many stupid Seattle drivers on the roads around here.

I installed the kit and adjusted per the instructions. It did lift the back of the truck about .75" as a result, but i really don't mind. The feel of the truck without a load is awesome. Feels like an oversized sports car around the corners, haha. Body roll has been almost eliminated and the ride feels very firm and solid, just the way i like it. If you're used to nice soft ride, this may not be the kit for you. Me personally i'm used to my previous truck that i lifted with 33's so i'm used to a harsh ride. By no means is the titan+roadmaster harsh, but it is certainly firmer than stock and thus you feel more of the road.

I hauled a 2000 lb pallet loaded with rolls of carbon fiber a few weeks ago and i was EXTREMELY happy i had the roadmaster kit. The body roll with this load stacked above my roof would have been scary at best if i didn't have the roadmaster springs. With the roadmaster, truck handling felt same as usual, but of coarse slower accel from the load.

I often tow a 28' race trailer weighing anywhere from 7,000 lbs to 11,000 lbs when we travel to Michigan or California. Yes, i know, it's over the limit of the truck, but oh well, the truck hauls it without issue. With the trailer being so long and heavy and the titan with it's relatively short wheelbase and weighing only 5100lbs, i have to run about 1000 lbs tongue weight otherwise i get some nasty sway coming down the hills with the trailer pushing the truck. The addition of the equilizer hitch has made the truck and trailer much less sensitive to low tongue weight induced sway. Previously i was using a WD hitch, but it had no sway control. Before the roadmaster springs, i was close to bottoming out the suspension in the rear and as a result, the ride was very rough with the trailer. Not anymore though. The ride feels great!

The usual towing trip is Seattle to Tacoma and back each weekend. This stretch of I-5 has a nice stretch of road with lovely expansion joints that, without the Roadmaster system, made for a miserable stretch of road to travel with a loaded trailer and truck. With the roadmaster you of course still feel the joints but instead of harsh, sudden jolts over each joint, i just get a consistent movement of the suspension. It feels like everything is doing its job as a result. Very nice.

Overall, i wouldn't be comfortable using (and abusing) my truck in the way i do without the roadmaster springs. I bought this truck to do just about everything and i've been extremely impressed with this beast. Like i said, 11,000 lb trailer to Michigan and back with no issues. To California and back through the grapevine, again without issues. You won't be sorry with the roadmaster springs.

I hope that helps you make your decision.

To cope with the excessive tow loads i subject the truck to, i have made some modifications to the truck beyond just the springs. I've replaced the old shackles with the updated gusseted and completely welded versions. Have the PML diff cover (w/ .75 wts extra fluid capacity) and PML transmission sump with addition 3.5 qts of fluid capacity. Replaced and upgraded all my soft transmission lines to prevent failure. Installed Load Range E 10 ply tires. Using the Tekonsha P3 brake controller.

Pictures of what i tow:

Jiro · 10-29-2009, 04:27 PM

Great info. Thanks for the replies

Yahooligan · 11-06-2009, 10:06 PM

Those of you that installed the RAS, how did you cope with the u-bolts being too short once the bump stop was put back in place on top of the RAS bracket?

krickett · 11-06-2009, 10:12 PM

Just picked up some longer u-bolts from the trailer supply store.

ColemanJ · 11-08-2009, 07:20 PM

Not sure what you mean.

No problem with the included u-bolts that came with the kit. Do you have a lift kit on your truck? The photo in the beginning of this thread looks just like the install should be except removing the small rubber roller bolt and roller froom the leaf springs as the instructions say to do to keep the RAS from bottoming out on the roller bolt. My '06 stock Titan 4X4 w/tow King Cab rides great with the heavy duty RAS kit. No body sway and the regular ride has not changed except a little lift in the rear but nothing drastic. I will be towing my TT during Thanksgiving and will post a follow-up after we get back. So far though I am VERY satisfied with the RAS.

Yahooligan · 11-08-2009, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColemanJ

Not sure what you mean.

No problem with the included u-bolts that came with the kit. Do you have a lift kit on your truck? The photo in the beginning of this thread looks just like the install should be except removing the small rubber roller bolt and roller froom the leaf springs as the instructions say to do to keep the RAS from bottoming out on the roller bolt. My '06 stock Titan 4X4 w/tow King Cab rides great with the heavy duty RAS kit. No body sway and the regular ride has not changed except a little lift in the rear but nothing drastic. I will be towing my TT during Thanksgiving and will post a follow-up after we get back. So far though I am VERY satisfied with the RAS.

Your kit came with u-bolts? Mine didn't. Came strictly with what was needed to install the RAS itself, nothing extra like longer u-bolts.

ColemanJ · 11-09-2009, 08:04 AM

Sorry, I meant to say that the u-bolts on the truck worked just fine. You are right, there are no u-bolts in the kit and no you should not need longer ones to install the RAS. After installing the RAS bracket, it did shorten the number of threads on the bolts by approx. 1/8" but once you retighten the nuts there should be plenty of threads left for the nuts to tighten.

Yahooligan · 11-09-2009, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColemanJ

Sorry, I meant to say that the u-bolts on the truck worked just fine. You are right, there are no u-bolts in the kit and no you should not need longer ones to install the RAS. After installing the RAS bracket, it did shorten the number of threads on the bolts by approx. 1/8" but once you retighten the nuts there should be plenty of threads left for the nuts to tighten.

Not for me. The u-bolts would have to stretch by a good 1/4" in order to get all the threads on the nut.

In any event, I need to get my truck and trailer loaded for action and take it for a drive. I may end up taking the RAS off as it may be overkill and making the ride too harsh while loaded. Unloaded it's great, towing the trailer home for the first time was pretty harsh but the trailer weight was also less than ideal due to the fresh water tank (rear-most on the trailer) was full of 45 gallons of water.