leveling lift kit

[Taylor]

I am extremely interested in any feedback on the leveling kits out there. I have a 4x4 non off road package. I've got to get rid of the stink bug look.

[dirtydozen]

i have the offroad package, but i too am interested in lifting it and making it level...i want to put 36" tires on it...does anyone have info on who has the best kit....

[Big Platinum]

If you just want to level, a lot of people have been putting on the 2.5" Daystar or the 2" Rough Country kit, but you might want to do a little research because some people are complaining about blowing their shocks from the Daystar due to overextending the shock.

Do a search, you'll come up with plenty of info.

[Sammy Sandbag]

The 2" Rough Country Kit is actually the 2.5" Daystar kit, as is the Skyjacker 2.5" kit, and I'm pretty sure the CST 2.5" is as well.

[BossHogg]

Well, in spite of all the warnings; I have installed the 2.5 inch Skyjacker leveling kit (IE Daystar). I usually work on all of my own vehicles, but since I knew it would need alignment right afterwards, I let a shop do this one. Cost of alignment and the install was 175.00.

Sanity of having a level truck; well, priceless. It rides level, handles the same on the highway, over bumps, and I have noticed no real added wind noise or stiffness. In fact, the front end feels a little more forgiving now? Of course, I haven't tried it on the trail yet, but I am not into rock crawling or anything that would require max articulation, so I am not really concerned about the front struts blowing. If and when I do blow a strut. I am hoping that bilstein or another good strut company makes something adjustable to lose the spacers.

I will say this: the feeling of not sliding off your seat during hard braking is worth the risk of the struts. It feels like a new truck, a real 4 wheel drive, not a truck in the rear and a car up front. Plus there is nothing like pulling up next to a Dodge, Ford, or Chevy and towering over it with 33inch tires and, thanks to the new space in the fenderwells, a level nose.

[michiganmade]

I do not want to sound to incredibly dumb, but why does this install require an alignment? It has upper and lower control arms. The strut does not effect alignment in this case.… or does it?

[Sammy Sandbag]

Any time you do suspension work you run the risk of knocking something out of spec, it is just advisable to have the allignment done. I believe the vast majority of the spring spacers installed by members have not effected allignment.

[BossHogg]

I agree with Virnoche on the topics of how much better a level truck, and how it easy it would be to do yourself. Good on ya, btw, I cannot believe that I drove mine around with the front end dragging for almost two weeks.

I will disagree on the issue of suspension travel. The sway bar does nothing to limit travel if both wheels get compressed at the same time; and the steering is designed to move with the wheel, not stabilize it. The A-arms are pinned longitudinally, and can move freely in this range, with the exception of the strut limiting travel. The strut has an internal bump stop to limit how far down the A-arms can travel, and the sway bar aids in this motion by limiting this range. This internal bump stop in the struts is the key. If you go over a bump hard enough, the recoil of the coil springs forces the strut down, but because the 2.5 inch spacers have "pre-loaded" the coils. The force hitting the bump stop is almost doubled because of the kinetics of a spring being Force=(1/2)*spring constant*distance moved^2 . So, with each distance "x" of spring load, the equation ends up being exponential.

Translated - A whole lot more force hits that bump stop that was only designed for "x" amount. It slowly, or rapidly depending on the bump; starts to allow the seals to leak in the strut. Sooner or later, as with all struts, they will start making a clunking sound; they are no longer absorbing shock, and are now just a noise maker as air escapes easily from one side to another.

However, I end this discussion on this note. I don't care. If I have to replace the struts every month until a company releases a set with more travel - so be it. The most important part of the above equation is simple. I have a level truck.

[ensclark]

I've been looking into the lift too, if I go with the lift, I will have to replace the struts/shocks when they blow. If I wait to get a lift I will have to replace them any way. What kind of lift could they come up with that would not cause these problems and keep the stock shocks? Or is it going to have to replace it all anyway? I hate the stink bug look too and can't wait to get rid of it.

[Sammy Sandbag]

If the lift is like the CST lift, it uses a strut/spring tower to lower the top mount of the strut by the size of the lift. Most lifts would require this type of setup or an all together replacement of the strut/spring, a la coilovers.

[Le_Titan]

Hey Guys

Does anyone know why they don't make the trucks level to begin with. Aerodynamics or what? Or some mechanical engineering reason? Its the only thing for now I would change on the Titan. I hope the next ones come leveled.

I'm looking to level mine pretty soon

[Sammy Sandbag]

They are not level because the back end is higher to compensate for loads, so you aren't frame on axle.

[BossHogg]

Yeah, they do it for load reasons and also for handling. When the front is higher, or level with the rear and you take a sharp turn, it increases the roll rate. IE, the Center of gravity. Not so noticeable when not carry a load, but put a heavy trailer or 1200 lbs in the bed and it won't handle like the same truck.

I don't want to encourage those out there thinking about this leveling kit, it can cause problems, but damn, this is a sweet truck now. I was worried about it affecting how well it would track on the road, or any wierd noises, but nothing so far. I am curious as to how my CV joint angles will be affected for my 4wd. I haven't tried the 4wd since I bought the truck. The angle didn't look too bad. I just hope that I don't get into a money pit with lowering the front axle if I have problems. I am sure I can expect some accelerated wear if I am running 50+ mph, but I don't see it causing any failures.

Anyone out there with this kit and 4wd care to comment on how well it has been working?

[Le_Titan]

Wouldn't the increased center of gravity be balanced by wider tires and perhaps a little wider rims? I don't see why it would be different for a truck. Most SUVs are level. Even the Armada is level ( or is'nt it?).

Cheers

[BossHogg]

Well, the Armada is counting on the fact that you are going to be towing less frequently in my opinion.

The Titan would be level like the Armada, but the rearend is raised 2 inches in the Titan. The CG for the rear is not affected as much, because there is a whole lot less weight above the frame rails; when towing it compresses and rides nearly level. Wider tires and wheels, or I should say more offset, helps, but any time you raise the front of a vehicle the CG changes more dramatically. This CG shift has been my observation with short wheel based Jeeps but should also apply to LWB as well.