Changing out LCAs - Nissan Titan Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 10:32 PM
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Changing out LCAs

Hey all,

Been reading up on LCA ball joint replacement threads and anything to do with LCAs. I'm getting ready to replace my LCAs with some new ones. I'm thinking this should be much easier than changing out the ball joints (as far as tear down) no?

Looks like all I need to do is:

Remove coilover from lower mount
Loosen where the ball joint meets the spindle
Remove/Sawzall the cam bolts

Am I missing anything else? I shouldn't have to remove the CV shafts (4X4) to replace the LCAs do I? I read that they have to be removed when changing out the ball joints (not enough room). Anything else anyone can think of, shoot away.



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#2 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 11:01 PM
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Re: Changing out LCAs

Yes, you will need to remove the CV shafts. There is no way you will get the new ball joint into the spindle without removing the CV axles. You shouldn't have to Sawzall the cam bolts, just spray them with lots of penetrating oil in advance. And take note of the orientation of the little notch on the cam bolts so you can line it up properly after you put it back. Basically, if you read my DIY ball joint thread, you will have to do everything except press out the old ball joint and install a new one. So really it won't be much easier to change the LCA as it would to change the ball joints. Clearances will be your biggest issue, and that's why you have to tear everything apart.


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#3 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 05:20 PM
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Re: Changing out LCAs

Thanks. bummer. I thought I might be able to get away without taking off the CV shafts. Oh well, not too big of a deal.
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#4 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grpape View Post
Thanks. bummer. I thought I might be able to get away without taking off the CV shafts. Oh well, not too big of a deal.
When i did my ball joints i just pushed them back enough to get them out of the spindle and bungee up and out of the way and popped them back in when i finished

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#5 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 07:54 PM
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Re: Changing out LCAs

NB, you wouldn't have the torque specs for the ball joint and camber bolts?


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#6 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 08:11 PM
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Re: Changing out LCAs

Sorry, I don't have the service manual right in front of me (I'm not at home). But I downloaded it from a link on this forum, so if you search the forum you might find it if the link is still available.

Quote:
When i did my ball joints i just pushed them back enough to get them out of the spindle and bungee up and out of the way and popped them back in when i finished
I did the same thing when I changed out my hubs. But when you are taking the LCA out, it's just as easy to set the CV shaft aside rather than bungee it in the mix with your spindle and all that.


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Radiant Silver with charcoal leather interior, black Nissan OEM brush guard, 33x12.50r17LT Hercules Trail Digger tires on OEM OR 7-spoke 17" rims, Rough Country 3" lift, 1" rear block, Bilsteins 5100s front and rear, Hawk LTS brake pads, MOOG lower ball joints, 2011 Pro4x rear end, Axle vent mod, 2 degree timing advance, NGK Iridium spark plugs, Stock Airbox mod with K&N filter, Magnaflow 14" SI/SO muffler on stock pipes with T304 stainless double-wall tip, Optima Yellow Top D34 battery, OEM Rockford Fosgate audio system, Protecta chrome tool box, 6000K HID headlights, TomTom GO 920 Navigation system.

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Last edited by NBhunter80; 01-16-2013 at 08:14 PM.
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#7 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 08:33 PM
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Re: Changing out LCAs

You only need to Sawzall the cam bolts if they're seized up too bad inside the bushing sleeves. I almost permanently bent my breaker bar trying to get mine off... If they are seized, there's a trick... 1) Make sure that the Ball Joint will seperate from the Spindle first, mine wouldn't budge with a 1/4 can of PB Blaster over 2-days, heated with a Propane Torch, AND the entire weight of the truck sitting on it so I had to take it in to have that stupid balljoint blow torched out of the spindle, I would've been hosed if I had already cut the cam bolts off. - 2) don't use cheaper blades, you need high quality STEEL cutting blades, I picked up a pack of the best Milwaukee (Milwaukee's Best ) - 3) cut the Bolt HEAD side first then tighten the Nut as tight as you can until the Head pops off and goes flying, - 4) cut the Nut side off last.

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#8 (permalink) Old 01-25-2013, 02:00 PM
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Re: Changing out LCAs

Thanks for all the tips guys. I did have the hubs changed out, so I'm pretty sure the ball joint can separate from the spindle. I'm just worried that I might mess up a seal when removing the CV shaft. Still deciding if I just want to get it done by the shop that did my hubs (quoted about $200 for the job).
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#9 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 11:36 AM
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Re: Changing out LCAs

You won't mess up a seal because the cv shaft has a flange that you just unbolt. You don't need to mess with any seals, just remove the six bolts, remove axle nut and tap the shaft in with a hammer.


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Radiant Silver with charcoal leather interior, black Nissan OEM brush guard, 33x12.50r17LT Hercules Trail Digger tires on OEM OR 7-spoke 17" rims, Rough Country 3" lift, 1" rear block, Bilsteins 5100s front and rear, Hawk LTS brake pads, MOOG lower ball joints, 2011 Pro4x rear end, Axle vent mod, 2 degree timing advance, NGK Iridium spark plugs, Stock Airbox mod with K&N filter, Magnaflow 14" SI/SO muffler on stock pipes with T304 stainless double-wall tip, Optima Yellow Top D34 battery, OEM Rockford Fosgate audio system, Protecta chrome tool box, 6000K HID headlights, TomTom GO 920 Navigation system.

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