I just mounted a set of Fox 8" remote reseivoir shocks on the rear of my truck. I valved them just for my truck and the ride is 10x's better than stock. If you valve your own stuff, pm me for what im running. If you want to do the same here's what I found. 1) the upper mount has 1.65" between the ears and the "inner" side of the tab needs to be ground shorter to allow for shock movement. 2) the lower mount is 1.90" apart. An 8" Fox is the perfect replacement length, A 10" will be great using a 4" block. You will need to have custom spacers made, and also the factoy bolt is 14mm, therefore you need to use a 1/2 bolt that, if it gets loose, will make noise rattling in the mount. Going to a 2.5" shock using a 5/8" uni-ball you could use the stock bolts using a custom misalignment spacer and grade 8 1/2 bolt. Hopefully this info is useful to someone.
Huh?... to all of us who don't anderstand, can you explain what is what you did, and what is the benefit?.. also, how much it cost... but more important, what is the truck not doing after the mod. I mean what have you improoved.
Thanks
Greg,which shock did you use(part# etc).Do they have compression and rebound adj?
Do you do this sort of thing as part of a business?Would you?I think you need special tools to change the valving on most shocks,is this correct??
What does a set of Fox shocks go for?
I see your truck is the lifted one in the icon?How do you think they would work on a stock truck(I'm just looking for a more compliant ride-too stiff now).Thanks,Charlie
Cali, i was just metioning that to mount an aftermarket shock in the stock loacations you need to make custom spacers.
Im not sure of the part number, but its just your garden-variety Fox 8" travel x 2" smooth-body reservoir shock. You dont need any special tools to revalve these shocks, but you do need to disassemble them to access the valving (shim stacks), I guess a micrometer is about the only speacil tool. The results are that you can get very good bottoming resistance yet still have a very compliant ride. Freeway expansion joints no longer buck and no bottoming on drainage crossings. The truck should kinda float off speed bumps when valved right, it dosent "fall" off the back side.
These shocks typcally sell for around $190 each. There is no twin-tube or non-rebuildable shock that works like a properly valved race shock. The Bilstien 5100 series is great and with some modifications can be made tunable, they usally sell for around $65 each. But Im not sure if they are available yet to fit the stock mounting points.
As for setting up shocks "professionally", I help about 5 off-road racing teams with their suspension programs, but "professional" is a far cry from "dirty shock guy". The pic in my icon is my old ranger, i would never treat my titan like that. My titan is all stock except for the leveling kit and the fox shocks.
As for the front, my factory shocks are just too soft. I found and old set of Tunda 2" fox replacemnt shocks, they should fit perfectly. But i need to make the lower coil mount as they were free, but not complete. the other option on the front is to use a Tunda 2.5" coil-over from Donahoe Racing (basically a Sway-away 2.5" x6" coil-over, no reservoir) that is the perfect replacement length, but the upper mount needs to be custom fabbed. But they tell me they will be out soon, should sell for about $950 a set. I bought a set and will modify them to fit, i just cant wait any longer.
Sorry for all the typing, this stuff is just my passion, and I can talk about shocks and suspension all day.
Thank for the info... how about a couple of photos
Greg,
I'd appreciate your feedback re: my game plan.
I have a 2WD KC w/ the CST lift.
I plan to switch from blocks to 4" Deaver springs, and from Doitch-Tech (misspelled) to Bilstein 5150's (they're only $90 each) for the rear. All this talk about axle wrap has me concerned.
I'm not sure what to do about replacing the coilovers in front, but the cst lift should make it fairly easy to install some long-travel shocks in front. any suggestions?
Now I'm not looking to do any hardcore wheeling with my titan right away (i still have my pathfinder for that), but I would like a better setup. what would you recommend?
I plan to switch from blocks to 4" Deaver springs, and from Doitch-Tech (misspelled) to Bilstein 5150's (they're only $90 each) for the rear. All this talk about axle wrap has me concerned.
I'm not sure what to do about replacing the coilovers in front, but the cst lift should make it fairly easy to install some long-travel shocks in front. any suggestions?
Now I'm not looking to do any hardcore wheeling with my titan right away (i still have my pathfinder for that), but I would like a better setup. what would you recommend?
thanks!
gero
What is the Bilstein part number for the rear shock? Bilstein does not show an Nissan Titan application on their website.
__________________
2004 Titan SE King Cab, 4x2,
Born on 04/19/2004, came home 06/12/04, Popular Pkg w/ Captain's Chairs, Deep Water, Magnaflow dual exhaust, OEM hood deflector, step rail, fog lights, K&N oil filter, Weathertech vent visors, NISMO billet oil cap, Kenwood Excelon XC-890 head unit with Sirius satellite radio, Rockford Fosgate P-450.4 amplifier, Infinity Reference 6010 front door speakers, Infinity Kappa 62.71 rear door speakers, Infinity Reference 611A subwoofer amplifier, 2 each Kicker Competition 10" subwoofers, cabin air filter, Truxedo low profile bed cover, Duraliner antiskid bedliner, Volant V.3 CAI System
Gero, CST makes an adaptor to mount a 2.5" x 8" (i think) in place of the factory strut (your choice SAW, King, Fox, Bilstien although the saw are shortest for the same travel). They say to use a 700 lb/in spring, that sounds about right. With their set-up you can us a reservoir shock too. Looking at the kit , i think you will gain an inch or so of droop do to the new upper arm. It is a nice kit.
As for the Deavers, did you talk to Jeff down there? or Eric? Either way, you will get a great product. Deaver typically builds the springs on the stiff side, but they will work with you until you are satisfied. Are they gonna use your stock primary leaf and build you a new pack? The Bilstiens will work so much better than the shocks you have now.
Smoke, the best thing to do would be to take the truck to a small, good shop that has knowledge with mounting and valving racing shocks. Pm me if need more detailed info.
Thanks! I can't wait to get this truck fully sorted.
The bilsteins were an option w/ the CST kit, as were the Deavers. I think that the Deavers are a standard pack (4" of lift). Is $675 the right price?... I've heard tundra owners quoted at about $500...but I was quoted $675 +another $175 to put them on.
I'm headed over to CST this week.
I'm excited to hear my options re: front shocks. I'll get you a part number for the bilsteins.
oh, i forgot, do you think that the leaf upgrade will address axle wrap, or do i need to look for traction bars?
Traction bars can be good and bad, they control axle wrap, but if set-up wrong, they will destroy the leaf pack. The deaver pack will control axle wrap just fine. Where were you quoted that price? What day are you going to cst? i work right down the street from there.
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Technical discussion about the suspension components.
09-26-2004, 05:35 AM
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