What's up guys,
I just got my rear blocks and wanted to find out the best way to install them from any of you that have already done it. It seems pretty straight foward, but it is always nice to get some "heads up" and "time saving" info. For example, on the spacers, you should only do one wheel at a time (have one wheel on the ground), and disconnect the sway-away bar. Anyway, I just wanted to see if there was a write-up anywhere or if Greg had some info. on steps for the install.
aloha, Derrick
p.s. Once again only praises to Greg and his products!
1. With all 4 wheels on the ground, remove U-bolts and the lower shock bolt from one side.
2. On the same side, lift frame of truck with a floor jack at the location Nissan specifies in the owners manual closest to the rear wheel. This will lift the leaf spring away from the axle plate and provide enough room to slide the block in. I used a 3.5 ton floor jack of which was raised almost to peak height to slide the 1.5" block in.
3. Slowly lower the truck. I would recommend that you have someone lower the truck while you watch from the rear to make sure that the leaf spring seats properly on the block while the truck is being lowered. The leaf spring has a seating pin (actually it is as big as a bolt) that seats into the hole on the top of the block when you lower it. Same goes for the axle plate.
4. After verifying that the leaf spring sits flush on the block and the block sits flush on the axle plate, install new U-bolts provided with the the block kit.
5. Attach lower shock bolt.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 above on the other side of truck.
7. Your done!
I think bladas summed it all up with the "non osha" approved way, which is how I do them. 2 little things to make sure, 1, make sure there is no dirt on the spring perch (axle) and 2 you may need to push the springs side-to-side to align with the pin, the springs will move..alot, dont be affraid to lever them into place. also, keep an eye on the small wires coming from the VSS, they can get pinched between the u-bolt and the axle if your not looking.
"non osha" approved way That's funny! Well, I find it funny anyway.
Oh yeah, and by the way kit showed up Friday evening, Thanks Greg!!!
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Thanks for the replies,
I got a bit antsy and just put them on. I wish I would have read your posts, because I did it the hard way. Jacked up the truck and put it on stands, and lowered the axle with the floor jack. Everything sat correctly and bolted right up. So what happens if you don't clean the dirt off of the axle (per Greg)? I'm also thinking that the wires greg is talking about are the ones the U-bolts pass through. I hope I did everything right!
Hey Havock,
I was checking out your pics. and was wondering why your blocks had "front and arrows on them?" Yup my lines are okay, pretty much figured that they'd get pretty bound up if they were on the inside of the bolts.
Thanks for the replies,
I got a bit antsy and just put them on. I wish I would have read your posts, because I did it the hard way. Jacked up the truck and put it on stands, and lowered the axle with the floor jack. Everything sat correctly and bolted right up. So what happens if you don't clean the dirt off of the axle (per Greg)? I'm also thinking that the wires greg is talking about are the ones the U-bolts pass through. I hope I did everything right!
aloha, Derrick
That's more of the "OSHA" approved way. I blocked mine up at the rear with VERY tall stands rated at 10-tons each (they look like for use on a dump truck or something). Plus a smaller set in front of the rear axle on the frame as "back-up" in case something failed. I blocked it up with the rear tires about 3" off the ground and worked on one side at a time, with a small hydraulic jack supporting the side of the axle. Pulled the wheels off for access and light. I had some measuring and fabbing to do on mine along the way since I flipped the u-bolts. See here for pics. Finally finished my 2" rear lift
Hey Havock,
I was checking out your pics. and was wondering why your blocks had "front and arrows on them?" Yup my lines are okay, pretty much figured that they'd get pretty bound up if they were on the inside of the bolts.
aloha, Derrick
That just shows the way they are supposed to be installed to make sure the alignment pin is in the correct spot when the block is sitting in the correct spot on the spring perch.
I just make a note of it on most of the blocks as to the side I machine from, this keeps the pin location to the front of the block consistant.
Greg, do you offset your blocks' centering pin (bottom) and hole on top so as to move the axle slightly forward on the spring? Our axles seem to sit slightly to the rear of center in the wheel well opening. I've thought about re-working mine to offset my axle forward about 1/2".
If I remember correctly, the pin and hole are directly inline on the 1.5" PRG blocks. And from looking at the pics here: http://www.tscomputerservices.com/titan/PRGkit.html they look inline, but I don't have a shot at the right angle.
Now I will let you & PRG resume axle geometry discussions so the rest of us can learn a thing or two!
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