Total Chaos control arms and coilovers

Taylor · 12-31-2006, 07:35 AM

Yesterday I installed new ucas and dr coilovers. It went nice and smooth. I adjusted the preset 2" to a little more on the coilover. It was pretty tight after one revolution around then, it seemed as if the whole threaded body started unscrewing from the top cap. Can this part come apart by unscrewing this? How can I adjust this spanner ring without unscrewing the whole threaded body?
My tires still rub a bit so I am going to purchase a spacer from prg I hope.

Chris93Si · 12-31-2006, 07:49 AM

LOL I just answered your thread in the performance forum I think.

But here we go again in case the other one gets deleted.

First do you have the truck jacked up? It'll be nearly impossible to get more preload in the springs w/ it on the ground. If so you need to put a set of spring compressors on the springs. That'll get enough tension out of them to crank the coilover up a bit. They're pretty hard to do, I guess it's easier when it's off the truck

HTH

Taylor · 12-31-2006, 08:01 AM

yeah the wheels are off the ground. It is also only on one side. I was thinking of that compressor also but what concerned me was just in one revolution it threaded out before it acually could call it getting real tight.

Chris93Si · 01-01-2007, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taylor

yeah the wheels are off the ground. It is also only on one side. I was thinking of that compressor also but what concerned me was just in one revolution it threaded out before it acually could call it getting real tight.

Try letting it soke w/ WD40 over night and then use the spring compressors.

AETitan · 01-03-2007, 09:53 PM

if you already have the coilovers, theres no sense in getting a spacer, both do the same thing, except coilovers are better because its an entire replacement rather than just bolting somethin to the top of the coilover you already have. so a spacer and dr coilovers would be too much unless you left the aftermarket coilover at a stock height you shouldnt get a spacer

**chunko** · 01-03-2007, 11:29 PM

I believe the spacer that is used with the TC arms is a different spacer.

I think he was talking about the TC Spacer not the usual over-coil spacer.

Taylor · 01-04-2007, 06:50 AM

wow cantalopes.

Yeah greg makes a certain thinkness spacer just right for the donahoes for a extra 1". For the donahoes coming unthreaded, I talked to donahoe and PRG and they said that the top cap should be real real tight so that it doesn't move during spanner ring adjustment. Donahoe said they would re-torque if I brought them in so i'm ok w/ that. I removed the gay mudflaps and my tires don't rub at all. Da ... I should have done that a long time ago.

bratsd · 01-04-2007, 03:03 PM

I put on the PRG 4" performance kit, did like greg said put the DR's in than 2 full turns to make the front have the 4" lift in front, my problem is I have more tire rub now than with just the leveling kit, called greg's twice left message with jen but never got a call back. So if your rubbing went away with just removing the mud flaps than I have somthing wrong my mud flaps have been off ever sense i bought the truck, sorry to hijack your thread.

silver-titan · 01-04-2007, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bratsd

I put on the PRG 4" performance kit, did like greg said put the DR's in than 2 full turns to make the front have the 4" lift in front, my problem is I have more tire rub now than with just the leveling kit, called greg's twice left message with jen but never got a call back. So if your rubbing went away with just removing the mud flaps than I have somthing wrong my mud flaps have been off ever sense i bought the truck, sorry to hijack your thread.

Just call greg till you talk to him live. He is always busy and doesn't get email or phone messages. I always just keep calling every two hours and I finally get him sooner or later. I have the same kit with the SAWs up front and no rubbing, after I took out the fender liner.

DR Jon · 01-17-2007, 07:02 PM

On new shocks, there shouldn't be a major problem turning the adjuster nut, if you do a couple of things; 1) lift the tires of the ground, 2) loosen the set screw with an allen wrench, 3) use a little spray lube if it's still sticky after that. You'd be surprised at the condition of some adjuster nuts I've seen, mostly because the owners overlooked the set screw. I have yet to hear of an instance where someone actually managed to unscrew the top cap from the cylinder.

Also keep in mind that you're "pre-loading" the spring outside the range for which the shock is valved, and the ride quality is going to change a bit. The effect will depend on the sensitivity of your "arse-ometer"

Jon

Gonpostal · 01-19-2007, 03:19 PM

When I was cranking up my DRs it was really difficult, I just put some PB blaster lube and used a bar connected to the spanner wrench which made it so much easier, good luck.