who has radflo 2.0 coilovers - Page 2

Yellomantis · 08-21-2007, 10:06 PM

SAW's are cheaper. I don't know anything about flipping hats to get more lift. But the main limiter is the coil bucket. More than 2" of lift on a 4wd and 2.5" of lift on a 2wd, with the stock arms, you will run into many many problems.

From what I have been told, the DR's are better for the street duty, whereas the SAW's are more suited for off road beatings.

NorCal 4x4 · 08-21-2007, 10:20 PM

You still would need an aftermarket upper A-arm to lift the front that much.

The main advantage of the SAW is more droop travel and the valving is by PRG, (but only if you buy them from him, or pay him for custom valving).

Btw, the DREs w/hat flipped ... my gut feeling is they won't compare to even a bracket lifted truck with proper coilovers from PRG, like Radflo 2.5" for lifted, or the new lifted SAWs that only PRG has, (for a quality high speed setup.

The only reason I mentioned the hat flip to you, is that you were looking for a cheap way to get 4x4 ground clearance. Used DREs plus some used TC or PRG uppers, and you can get the undercarriage clearance and also fit taller tires. This will not be a desert racer, but will fit the specific application you were asking about, giving more ground clearance than a bracket.

The hat flip for moderate speed running might be o.k. for someone that already has them, like me, if it means I could get 2" to 2.5" inches of lift to be level, and I could crank the DREs down to minimum pre-load or 0" lift. But even at 4" it might be better than having the DREs set to maximum pre-load.

Hawaiianbasshead · 08-22-2007, 01:16 AM

I understand the uppers and I want droop so I'd like an upper anyway

SAW vs DRE, very glad someone answered my question on the difference between SAW and DRE, THANK YOU

. now it's clear why saw's require new uca's

the droop with REALLY make the upper nail the coil bucket

I kinda assumed so much as I couldn't figure how else they needed uppers... unless they have such large body and springs they hit themselves which I really doubted

yeah no doubt a jimmy rigged lift will compare to a well thought out more proper angulated front suspension lifted

if that makes sense... meaning the upper and lower arms will be closer to stock alignment in relativity to parallelness with the ground... as for the bracket I'm guessing the brackets are the subframe and block/spacer lift like a stock CST 7"...?...

I only plan on getting products through Greg or products which were originally sourced through him

lastly, I don't think I'd need to do a hat flip, I think with a SAW and a leveling spacer I could get close to the same 4" with some healthy preload.. unless only the DRE's can be used for that much lift on a 4x...?

U are the best! all you guys

if you ever come to HI we can kick it, beers on me

if it's a whole MEET you guys gotta pick ONE type of beer and I'll just get a keg

don't wanna be spending hundreds on beer since I don't drink very much

yes, sadly english is my primary language I just so happen to suck at it... I don't really know what an adjective is even so I'm sure some people have a hard time reading, understanding what I'm trying to say without getting the wrong information from what I intended to say... I'm sure you guys all got the beer part fine though

Yellomantis · 08-22-2007, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawaiianbasshead

I understand the uppers and I want droop so I'd like an upper anyway

SAW vs DRE, very glad someone answered my question on the difference between SAW and DRE, THANK YOU

. now it's clear why saw's require new uca's

the droop with REALLY make the upper nail the coil bucket

I kinda assumed so much as I couldn't figure how else they needed uppers... unless they have such large body and springs they hit themselves which I really doubted

yeah no doubt a jimmy rigged lift will compare to a well thought out more proper angulated front suspension lifted

if that makes sense... meaning the upper and lower arms will be closer to stock alignment in relativity to parallelness with the ground... as for the bracket I'm guessing the brackets are the subframe and block/spacer lift like a stock CST 7"...?...

I only plan on getting products through Greg or products which were originally sourced through him

lastly, I don't think I'd need to do a hat flip, I think with a SAW and a leveling spacer I could get close to the same 4" with some healthy preload.. unless only the DRE's can be used for that much lift on a 4x...?

U are the best! all you guys

if you ever come to HI we can kick it, beers on me

if it's a whole MEET you guys gotta pick ONE type of beer and I'll just get a keg

don't wanna be spending hundreds on beer since I don't drink very much

yes, sadly english is my primary language I just so happen to suck at it... I don't really know what an adjective is even so I'm sure some people have a hard time reading, understanding what I'm trying to say without getting the wrong information from what I intended to say... I'm sure you guys all got the beer part fine though

Beer?????

have the CST 7" and I love it. I have install pics if you want them.

Hawaiianbasshead · 08-22-2007, 10:31 AM

hm, so leveling spacers can't even be bolted onto the SAW's at all? since they give almost 4" lift I could do a spacer and drop the spring to less than half lift so it still has some quality of ride to it... mostly concerned with the handling/death wobble or major dangerous problems as such. but I would like it to be smoother over bumps...

throwing the angles further outta wack would also give me worse steering right? like bump steer? I'd love to have about 4" in the front I allready have a 2.5" spacer so I'd definetly have preload on my coilovers whichever I ended up getting if I could indeed run them with the spacer, the DR sounds like I could flip the hat and therefore don't need the spacer, but the saw seems to be the more fun/capable offroading shock, so I suppose I'm better off with the saw at around 4" lift rather than the DRE with 5" or even 4" for that matter...

would there be a difference in ride on the road with the DRE hat flipped and set to around 4" than a SAW with a 2.5" leveling spacer and set to 4" total front? I'd imagine with the SAW screwed that far down it'd ride better than the DRE set that far up?

I do prefer the color of the DRE since my truck is green... the red would look kinda hoakie

I'm probably gonna order the performance lift from PRG maybe I should just pm or email him as to which would be better

Yellomantis · 08-22-2007, 04:09 PM

Is the performance 4" lift available for 4wd's? I thought it was only for 2wd's.....

SDTitan1 · 08-22-2007, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yellomantis

Is the performance 4" lift available for 4wd's? I thought it was only for 2wd's.....

it's the original 4" performance lift ... sans spindles

Hawaiianbasshead · 08-22-2007, 08:10 PM

yeah, it says 4" 2wd or 4wd on the site, you have to choose which one it's for. in either DRE or SAW

FREE SHIPPING
$1999 4" Performance Package with Donahoe (DRE) Coilovers - 2WD or 4WD

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$1899 - 4" Performance Package with Sway-A-Way (SAW) Coilovers - 2WD

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$1899 - 4" Performance Package with Sway-A-Way (SAW) Coilovers - 4WD

**loufish** · 08-23-2007, 05:12 PM

Quote:

a SAW with a 2.5" leveling spacer

Nope...The SAW's have a speacial upper mount that allows for a slighly longer then stock shock, this increases wheel travel but also requiers the PRG or TC upper arm.

Hawaiianbasshead · 08-23-2007, 08:34 PM

my main concerns are:

1) death wobble. don't need a lifted truck that bad... I'd just as soon not off road...

2) bump steer. I have it already a little and want it gone. if it's the angle since I have a leveling kit I'd way rather get a proper bracket lift than coilovers causing more angle on the control arms..

3) ground clearance. I want more and don't really need a heap.. a couple to a few inches would be fine since I don't bottum out very often...

4) stiff/bouncy suspension.. my truck seems almost unmanageable off the road where it gets real bumpy. I'm not sure if it's the stock OR shocks or if since I have 32000 miles on it the stock OR rancho's are gone... I'm figuring a combination of the two. I never cared for them in the 1st place

Yellomantis · 08-23-2007, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawaiianbasshead

my main concerns are:

1) death wobble. don't need a lifted truck that bad... I'd just as soon not off road...

2) bump steer. I have it already a little and want it gone. if it's the angle since I have a leveling kit I'd way rather get a proper bracket lift than coilovers causing more angle on the control arms..

3) ground clearance. I want more and don't really need a heap.. a couple to a few inches would be fine since I don't bottum out very often...

4) stiff/bouncy suspension.. my truck seems almost unmanageable off the road where it gets real bumpy. I'm not sure if it's the stock OR shocks or if since I have 32000 miles on it the stock OR rancho's are gone... I'm figuring a combination of the two. I never cared for them in the 1st place

I have none of these issues with my truck. But I also spent $4800 on the suspension.

hooligan · 08-23-2007, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawaiianbasshead

my main concerns are:

1) death wobble. don't need a lifted truck that bad... I'd just as soon not off road...

2) bump steer. I have it already a little and want it gone. if it's the angle since I have a leveling kit I'd way rather get a proper bracket lift than coilovers causing more angle on the control arms..

3) ground clearance. I want more and don't really need a heap.. a couple to a few inches would be fine since I don't bottum out very often...

4) stiff/bouncy suspension.. my truck seems almost unmanageable off the road where it gets real bumpy. I'm not sure if it's the stock OR shocks or if since I have 32000 miles on it the stock OR rancho's are gone... I'm figuring a combination of the two. I never cared for them in the 1st place

1) its important to have a quality shop do good job on the balance of offroad tires, especially if larger than a 33". many all terrain tires are known to come from the manufacturer not true, also many variables play a factor. best way to get an accurate balance is to find a tire shop that does the Hunter "Road Force" test.

2) no need for a bracket lift just to adjust camber. PRG has his new UCAs that allow for camber adjustment to reset at OEM specs.

3) ground clearance? 4" performance kit would be adequate, 7" lift would be just right.

4) most people don't realize having your air pressure set for the paved roads doesn't exactly bode well for the proper tire pressure for offroading. too much air pressure you're sure to bounce and get an uncontrollable feel even if you have high performance coilovers and such. anyhow, aftermarket coilovers with higher spring rates aren't necessarily gonna feel any softer but will absorb the blow from a big hit much better than stock and not fail.

hondarider227 · 08-23-2007, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawaiianbasshead

my main concerns are:

1) death wobble. don't need a lifted truck that bad... I'd just as soon not off road...

2) bump steer. I have it already a little and want it gone. if it's the angle since I have a leveling kit I'd way rather get a proper bracket lift than coilovers causing more angle on the control arms..

3) ground clearance. I want more and don't really need a heap.. a couple to a few inches would be fine since I don't bottum out very often...

4) stiff/bouncy suspension.. my truck seems almost unmanageable off the road where it gets real bumpy. I'm not sure if it's the stock OR shocks or if since I have 32000 miles on it the stock OR rancho's are gone... I'm figuring a combination of the two. I never cared for them in the 1st place

I have no issues with mine. And I am pretty simple lift compared to some of this stuff these guys run

Hawaiianbasshead · 08-24-2007, 09:30 PM

would a 4" clear 35"s on a -12 moto metal offset?

I kinda doubt it... I have procomp X-ATs and they rub a little and their a little under 33" to a tape measure, they're the load E 305 65R/17s... my tires aren't full by any means I'm fairly sure I'm 10-20psi down from the E-load if not the rim or stock pressure rating...

BIGDADDY"S-07-CREW · 08-24-2007, 10:17 PM

? all the coilovers are adjustable. If you crank them up to the max they can lift then the ride is stiffer, correct? Can you run the 2.0 radflo's and a spacer in the front and a block or spring pack in the rear for decent lift and a decent ride? If you can the technically you can get the radflo's and crank then up to full lift which is 3in and then with a spacer get a total of 5 inches in the front with stock uca's?