So I just bought a set of used DR's from someone here on the boards and was wondering a few things... (Greg, ur input would be very appreciated)
1) How can I tell how much lift the shocks are preset to give me? (keep in mind these are used so they may have been adjusted already) I want them to give me the most lift without banging uca's on the coil buckets or anything like that and I DO plan on getting spindles and new UCA's VERY SOON. Would 2-1/2" be the best for now?
2) This kinda goes with the first one... Should I do the "flip" trick to the DR's now since I also plan on purchasing UCA's from greg down the line? or wait til after I buy the UCA's?
3) Anything special that I should know about installing these coilovers?
Thanx everyone. I plan installing tomorrow afternoon so I'll post some before and afters.
So I just bought a set of used DR's from someone here on the boards and was wondering a few things... (Greg, ur input would be very appreciated)
1) How can I tell how much lift the shocks are preset to give me? (keep in mind these are used so they may have been adjusted already) I want them to give me the most lift without banging uca's on the coil buckets or anything like that and I DO plan on getting spindles and new UCA's VERY SOON. Would 2-1/2" be the best for now?
2) This kinda goes with the first one... Should I do the "flip" trick to the DR's now since I also plan on purchasing UCA's from greg down the line? or wait til after I buy the UCA's?
3) Anything special that I should know about installing these coilovers?
Thanx everyone. I plan installing tomorrow afternoon so I'll post some before and afters.
- if i'm correct if you haven't installed them yet, you can measure stock from center of the wheelhub to the lip of the fender, then install the DRs and then re-measure to determine lift. also 2.5" would be best for now and even when you get spindles and UCAs.
- don't do the hat flip till after you get the UCAs. personally, i wouldn't do it at all.
- ??? not that i know of, but greg can give you more precise and thorough advise.
Is flipping the hat on the DR strong enough? I would think that would make it weaker because now it is just 2 tabs holding the shock on. I though about doing that on my F1 so I didnt have to crank them down so far and make them ride stiff, but I though DR made them that way for a reason and didnt want to risk it.
Kartman go ahead do your thing make some dumb comment about this being a titan forum.
it doesn't matter how much pre-load the shocks have, the UCA either hits or clears... it's a function of the shocks extended length that decides, not the pre-load.
"Flipping the Hat" insures the arms will hit...wait until you have the new UCA's...
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Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
Born 9/2004
Is flipping the hat on the DR strong enough? I would think that would make it weaker because now it is just 2 tabs holding the shock on. I though about doing that on my F1 so I didnt have to crank them down so far and make them ride stiff, but I though DR made them that way for a reason and didnt want to risk it.
Kartman go ahead do your thing make some dumb comment about this being a titan forum.
No need, you made more than enough dumb comments in this thread.
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Rebar Wrangler
Its a truck with bigger shocks and stuff.
Stock, the DRE typically come with 3/4" of thread showing. This is about 2" of lift on a 4wd, about 3" on a 2wd. These numbers are NOT concrete. If your Titan sits low now, then these numbers are easy to get, if it sits tall from the factory, then it will be much harder to get the full amount of increase. If its an '08, you will only gain about 1" of lift on a 4wd, 2" on a 2wd. Dont flip the hat now, get UCA's. Adding the uca requires the addition of a billet spacer (or flipping the hat and cutting, grinding and hammering), you'd have to take the shock out anyway, if you want to flip the hat, do it then. Things to note; there are two bolt patterens, use the one with the dimples. Be sure the lower spacers push the shock away from the axle. If you need to adjust the height, the ratio is about 2:1....1/2" of lift is 1/4" of preload.
So I just bought a set of used DR's from someone here on the boards and was wondering a few things... (Greg, ur input would be very appreciated)
1) How can I tell how much lift the shocks are preset to give me? (keep in mind these are used so they may have been adjusted already) I want them to give me the most lift without banging uca's on the coil buckets or anything like that and I DO plan on getting spindles and new UCA's VERY SOON. Would 2-1/2" be the best for now?
2) This kinda goes with the first one... Should I do the "flip" trick to the DR's now since I also plan on purchasing UCA's from greg down the line? or wait til after I buy the UCA's?
3) Anything special that I should know about installing these coilovers?
Thanx everyone. I plan installing tomorrow afternoon so I'll post some before and afters.
Like Greg mentioned its not in concrete, so measure height and put them on as per Greg's instructions and adjust as needed.Un-weight the front end loosen the alen set screw, spray threads with WD 40 and tighten.Set it back down drive it down the street and back to let the suspension set in and to feel the ride.Check height. Adjust further as needed.
As far as the top mount flip ? what do want to accomplish ? The guys that do that want there truck as tall as they can get it. And end up with little to no droop travel at ride height.
If you want a nice working suspension and run 35's, When you get the UCA's have Greg also get you the 5/8" spacer. You install that above the upper mount,this gives you 1 1/4" of lift without preloading the DR and also gives you max droop travel the tubular UCA at max droop will stop a fraction before hitting the coil bucket.( Greg's very smart design) Then when you get the 4" lift spindles you can take the preload out of the DR's and still have a nice ride height and working suspension. Oh yeah also get the Deaver spring pack and NO BLOCK'S in the rear, Hey thats my set up.
Also when shopping for 35's buy a set that are not too wide or they will rub.A nice set of 35's on stock wheels work good. It's kinda hard to find a set of after market's with the correct backset. Also if you do get after markets do not get polished aluminum unless you want to spend all you spare time polishing them.
First pic flip upper mount
Second pic my set up
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06 SMOKE SE KC 2WD TITAN /AEM INTAKE/FLOWMASTER 40/2*TIMING ADVANCE/CST 4" LIFT SPINDLES/2.5 X 8" TRAVEL RADFLO COILOVERS W/ REMOTE RESERVOIR / PRG DELIUXE MID-TRAVEL KIT /DEAVER 2.5 MINI PACK/RADFLO REAR SHOCKS W/ REMOTE RESERVOIR /PRG OFF ROAD TRACTION BARS/ CST CARRIER DROP/PRG HD SHACKELS/ULTRA ROUGE 17X8 WHEELS/37X12.50R17 HANKOOK DYNAPRO MT/HOOPERS CUSTOM 3.73 GEAR INSTALL W/TRUETRAC AND MAG-HYTECH DIFF.COVER/ALLIED MOTORSPORTS MID-TRAVEL INSTALL CUSTOM FAB FRONT & REAR BUMPERS/BULLY DOG HIGH OCTANE TUNE +2* DISABLE WIDE OPEN THROTTLE GOVERNOR
1) can you explain the bolt pattern that should be used more. not sure what you mean by the one with the "dimples"
Quote:
7. Install new coil assembly: there are 6 threaded holes in the upper coil-over mount. You will use the three holes
with dots next to them for Titans/Armadas. Install upper mount with the charge port pointing outward using (3) 3/8”
bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts down to 30 ft/lbs.
they're on and i could NOT be more pleased with how these things handle! these are well worth the $450 i paid for them used! they're set at 2" right now but i'll prob crank em another 1/2" or so tomorrow. i was stupid and completely forgot to take before pics so i'll only be posting after pics tomorrow morning when its light out. thanx for the help everyone, and if you don't have aftermarket coilovers, GO BUY SOME!
they're on and i could NOT be more pleased with how these things handle! these are well worth the $450 i paid for them used! they're set at 2" right now but i'll prob crank em another 1/2" or so tomorrow. i was stupid and completely forgot to take before pics so i'll only be posting after pics tomorrow morning when its light out. thanx for the help everyone, and if you don't have aftermarket coilovers, GO BUY SOME!
congratulations! hit some dips at full speed and they'll surprise you! take the sway bar and allow that front suspension to really articulate! my first set of C/Os were the DRs and they were awesome!!!
congratulations! hit some dips at full speed and they'll surprise you! take the sway bar and allow that front suspension to really articulate! my first set of C/Os were the DRs and they were awesome!!!
yeah i've heard alot about taking out the sway bar. is this recommended for aftermarket coilovers? what will it do for me?
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