I am going to be putting camber bolts on my truck. Thanks to some good posts, I know how to install them. But I don't know what their use is or how to use them. Should I just install them and let the alignment shop deal with them?
They're used to move the lower arm in and out from the frame to adjust Camber & Castor...Let the alignment shop do their thing afterwards....After seting C & C they will set the Toe...
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Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
Born 9/2004
^^^Like Kartman said, they only adjust camber. There really isn't a way to adjust caster on these trucks.
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government. - Thomas Jefferson
Guys? When would there be a need to adjust the camber? I mean, I know what it is, but unless we're cruising the highbanks of Daytona, has anyone ever had to have the camber adjusted? I put the bolts in when I installed my SAW's and no adjustment was required, even after I yutzed around with the lower arms... Was just wondering....
Like Kartman said, they only adjust camber. There really isn't a way to adjust caster on these trucks.
Really?.....So adjusting each bolt on the lower arm independent of each other won't produce a Castor change? :
Please reply in detail, I'm taking notes and wiping out all my previous knowledge in this area...
This is even more funny as this weekend we did the alignment on a brand newly fabricated $150,00 camera car using the two bolts to adjust both Camber and Castor...I better hurry up and re-adjust the front end of the vehicle before it ships to England for filming...
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Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
Born 9/2004
Guys? When would there be a need to adjust the camber? I mean, I know what it is, but unless we're cruising the highbanks of Daytona, has anyone ever had to have the camber adjusted? I put the bolts in when I installed my SAW's and no adjustment was required, even after I yutzed around with the lower arms... Was just wondering....
BB, think of it like this:
Condition 1:
First assume the truck is just sitting there 'normal' with all four wheels on the ground. We'll assume that it's got adjustable coilovers and that it's set at 0" lift and the camber is within factory specs.
Condition 2:
Now, lets crank up those coilovers so that we get some lift. When that occurs, it's forcing the ENTIRE front suspension assembly DOWN, away from the chassis. The top of the coilover is fixed to the FRAME and the bottom is fixed to the LCA. When this pushing down occurs, it changes the whole relationship between the wheel/tire and the chassis itself. The camber has been changed and the camber adjustment bolts let you bring the camber back into spec.
See attached for my attempt at illustrating this!
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government. - Thomas Jefferson
Really?.....So adjusting each bolt on the lower arm independent of each other won't produce a Castor change? :
Interesting point... and a correct one. I never considered adjusting the two bolts differently. Sometimes I think of things too simply, in 2 dimensions, instead of 3. Thanks for correcting the error in my ways. Also, please review my last post, I think I answered his question well???
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government. - Thomas Jefferson
Nice job, 54! Just one question... What kind of shock did you draw? That looks like a prehistoric cave drawing shock! Nice explanation, though. I understand it, but it just strikes me as odd that I didn't have to adjust it. I know how the geometry can change; just surprising that it stayed within spec when I did that.
Nice job, 54! Just one question... What kind of shock did you draw? That looks like a prehistoric cave drawing shock! Nice explanation, though. I understand it, but it just strikes me as odd that I didn't have to adjust it. I know how the geometry can change; just surprising that it stayed within spec when I did that.
UGGG MMMMPHHH GRRR AAAOOOAAAAAAAAOOOO
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government. - Thomas Jefferson
Nice drawing, Auto-CAD?
For castor, you can adjust just one bolt to obtain a castor change, but most itme by using both you have some adjustment left over for camber...
You set Castor..
Camber
Toe...
In that order.
Here's my shocks drawn vector based...I can add more detail later...
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Titan KC SE 2wd StreetFighter...
PRG Performance Kit w/SAW's
including rear SAW 2.25" Piggys
Nitto Terra Gobblers on Pro Comp 1028 Wana-be Bead lock wheels
Born 9/2004
Why do we need camber bolts to do the adjustment? I realize that the camber bolts have markings or "dials" on them. But why can't you just loosen or tighten the existing bolts?