long travel or mod travel anyone?

[bradbury]

Well i bought the shocks myself and yes they are 10'' saw. I also cut part of the inner fender out right above the shock mount to get more room.

[rynomx785]

The reason I ask is I had horrible time getting my 10" coilover in there. I had to have the shock hoops done twice. Mine are just about touching the fender well. When they were lower than that I wasnt getting all my bump travel that I could. Even when the coilover was fully compressed it was too long. Like I said Im not doubting you Im just curious.

[CL 8 2WD]

Originally Posted by bradbury

Well i bought the shocks myself and yes they are 10'' saw. I also cut part of the inner fender out right above the shock mount to get more room.

Can we please get a bigger pic

[bradbury]

Ya this was my second time also the first time i had 8'' saw and i wasnt getting the full potential so i got 10'' and it was alot harder to mount them and i do my own shock hoops so it has been alot of work.

[CL 8 2WD]

Originally Posted by bradbury

Ya this was my second time also the first time i had 8'' saw and i wasnt getting the full potential so i got 10'' and it was alot harder to mount them and i do my own shock hoops so it has been alot of work.

So give us a BIG pic so we can see your handy work

[rynomx785]

Originally Posted by pgthe1

CST LT kit... Strapped at 17" a new UCA will get me another 2" before the lower will bind... but I'm good @ 17" for now. Using 10" shocks. If the Burg kit was out at the time I got this 1... it would have been burg for me.

Are you running the that little SAW helper spring? What is the purpose of that? I was messing with one a few weeks ago. You can compress it completely with your hands.

[pipho]

Originally Posted by rynomx785

Are you running the that little SAW helper spring? What is the purpose of that? I was messing with one a few weeks ago. You can compress it completely with your hands.

Its to keep tension on the main spring at full droop without messing with the over all spring rate, its for shorter springs on long shocks

[rynomx785]

Originally Posted by pipho

Its to keep tension on the main spring at full droop without messing with the over all spring rate, its for shorter springs on long shocks

I'm suprised that it keeps enough tension on the main spring. Those things are super soft.

[pipho]

Originally Posted by rynomx785

I'm suprised that it keeps enough tension on the main spring. Those things are super soft.

just enough so the coil isnt slapping around at full droop

[rynomx785]

Originally Posted by pipho

just enough so the coil isnt slapping around at full droop

What would be the benefit of that as opposed to running the nut all the way down the main spring?

[pipho]

[quote=rynomx785;1875858]What would be the benefit of that as opposed to running the nut all the way down the main spring?[/QUOTE

its hard to explain I would need to show you but it has to do with using all the shocks travel with a shorter spring. Im not real good with this Im still learning too correct me if im wrong but say your springs short(theres reasons for a short springs too) if you thread the adjuster down so at droop the spring is still tight, then at ride height most of the shocks droop is already used, using a helper spring allows you to set your ride height right in the middle of the shock stroke with out the shorter spring becoming loose and flop at full droop, yet its light enough it doesnt mess with your overall spring rate. Next class we will learn about setting up dual rate stoppers, haha not really Im still trying to figure those out.

Also threading the adjuster down so the spring is tight at full droop would make a super tall ride height

[CL 8 2WD]

Originally Posted by rynomx785

What would be the benefit of that as opposed to running the nut all the way down the main spring?

Pete runs the shorter spring so he can get a lower ride height.
And as said, the small spring keeps the main spring from moving around during suspension articulation