ok, im installing a 2'' levelink kit on my 05 4x4. i have everything tight and in place excpe for the steering arm thing (pictures). When you put the nut on the bolt the bolt spins as well theres no place to hold the bolt. there is the little black rubber thing filled with grease and it has a "knuckle" in it. On the bolt near the top theres the cotter key (which i removed) and the botton is flush so theres nothing to grab! How do i stop the bolt from spinning so i can tighten the nut? In the one picture the red is the bolt!
ok, im installing a 2'' levelink kit on my 05 4x4. i have everything tight and in place excpe for the steering arm thing (pictures). When you put the nut on the bolt the bolt spins as well theres no place to hold the bolt. there is the little black rubber thing filled with grease and it has a "knuckle" in it. On the bolt near the top theres the cotter key (which i removed) and the botton is flush so theres nothing to grab! How do i stop the bolt from spinning so i can tighten the nut? In the one picture the red is the bolt!
That is the tie rod end , and it is tapered.
The nut you are using does not look like the right one.
The nut should have notches in it so you can insert a cotter key to keep it from backing off.
The nut should go on easily and draw the tapered tie rod end ball joint up into the tapered hole on the spindle and wedge it into place.
If it keeps turning with the nut it might be the wrong nut.
No I just had a look the nut is not notched, try tapping the ball joint into the spindle to wedge it into place.
Then try and install the nut, it should not be difficult to thread on.
if i use an impact, the whole bolt is spinning as well everything will just spin and nothing will happen. I might try a different nut, the threads might be dammaged a bit cousing it to start off hard. I also might try to file the top threads of the bolt with some sand paper.
I dont know my kit didnt come with any instructions. D*$m Pro-Comp. I just used some instructions on the internet and such. the rear blocks were easy as pie but the front spacers are a different story. I got one side done (excpt for the tie-rod bolt) and im about to start the passenger side tonight.
Just put a jack under it to put some pressure on it, then crank it down...
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TrainingWheelsWhore™
08 Pro 4X RED ALERT SWB Crew cab, big tow, air box mod, cloth bench seats, N-Fabs, EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads coming soon...Thanks Discount Tire!
Towing a Clipper 1465HST Trail ready pop up. Grumpy Old Man Club http://s3.bite-fight.us/c.php?uid=214743
The Following User Says Thank You to 4mula1fan For This Useful Post:
did the nut thresd on easy from the start? or was it hard goin on the first coupple of threads?
It was hard to start because my dumb buddy hit the end with a hammer without the nut on it and screwed up the threads when we were taking it out the spindle.
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2006 CC LE, BT, OFFROAD with nav and sunroof
Procomp 6" ($1300.00),SAW coilovers ($1000.00),Rear Sway-away piggybacks ($399.00),PRG Offroad Traction Bars ($489.00), C-30 Deaver pack ($140.00), PRG Shackles ($139.00), PRG UCA ($599.00), NCD 2" SPACER ($89).
18" Procomp 8179 wheels ($700.00)
37x13.5x18 Toyo MT's ($1900.00)
Banks Monster Exhaust ($500.00)
2* Timing Advance ($0)
Huskyliner floorliners ($140.00)
Volant Powercore ($320.00)
Tech12volt box with 2xkicker 12 and kicker amp ($340.00)
Color Matched Bushwacker Pocket style flares ($600.00)
Go Dominator type II steps ($320.00)
Warn 12k powerplant with milemarker winch mount ($1865.00)
Stillen Big Brake Kit ($905.00)
Doug Thorley Longtubes ($675.00)
Money wasted so far=$12,420.00
Just put a jack under it to put some pressure on it, then crank it down...
this would prob work but you would just have to be careful not to press all the grease out. basically you just need to get that bolt in a bind somehow so that it cant spin. ive ran into this multiple times and i think ive dealt with it differently each time. i know i used a crow bar to wedge it once. i know thats not very descriptive but i think you get the point. good luck
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Current mods: JBA cat-back w/ Magnaflow 14" muffler swap, K&N cai, Doug Thorley headers, UpRev, 6" Pro Comp lift, external reservoir Radflo coilovers and SAW rear piggybacks, 35" Nittos on 20x10 KMCs.
Near Future Mods: Ionic Dynamics front fenders, rear bedsides, custom front and rear bumpers, and basically blacking out the Titan!
I did front end work for years...put a jack under it....
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TrainingWheelsWhore™
08 Pro 4X RED ALERT SWB Crew cab, big tow, air box mod, cloth bench seats, N-Fabs, EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads coming soon...Thanks Discount Tire!
Towing a Clipper 1465HST Trail ready pop up. Grumpy Old Man Club http://s3.bite-fight.us/c.php?uid=214743
The Following User Says Thank You to 4mula1fan For This Useful Post:
The clamp idea is good, thats what i sometimes do at work. Worst case just go and buy a new tie-rod end.
__________________ Marcus
2005 Titan LE CC
Air intake mod, Fog light mod, DIY ground wire kit, DDM 8000k lows/fogs, Armada air dam, 34R optima, Black LE wheels, 2* advance
1995 Continental Sold
1988 Mustang 5.0 Turbocharged Sold
Ok, finally done the front end and rear (1.5 rear blocks). For the tie-rod i used some channel locks worked great. The "Mini Lift" looks good, now time for some tires!... ill post picts tomorrow!! thanks for all the help guys Titan-Talk is a life saver for anything and everything Titan related!!!!!
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