THE FINAL TITAN BRAKE FIX and the RESULTS

[Big-T]

Make sure that the new rotors are bigger than the original ones or you got ripped.

[MuskyHunter]

Is everyone following proper break in procedure for their brakes? I ask this as I see many people who get a new car or recently replace their brakes start to use them full bore.

I may be speaking too soon as my vehicle does not have the upgraded brakes but I am confident that if the problem should arise, it will be many miles away. But with nearly 30 years of driving and number of vehicles I have owned, I have yet to run into a brake judder problem on my cars/trucks even when installing lower quality economy rotors on some of my winter beater vehicles.

In the first week of driving my new Titan I was very light on the brakes. I applied just enough pressure to lightly slow down the vehicle and made sure that when stopped that I allowed the truck to roll forward so as not to deposit brake material onto the rotor and kept the pressure light enough so as just to keep the truck from rolling forward.

I have yet to run into brake judder with the Titan after nearly 1000 miles of towing and 4000 miles on the original brakes with a proper break in. In fact, with the amount of towing I have done with long downhill stops and stop and go traffic, the brakes are performing quite well except for wheel dust.

Stop Tech site talks about brake judder, causes and prevention and is a good overview.

Other reading that might be interesting, while focused on brake squeal, this thesis from Mikael Eriksson does a nice job of illustrating the thermodynamic properties associated with braking systems.

I feel a little patience and care after a new set of pads and rotors are installed go a long way to prevent brake judder and prolong the life of your brakes.

Has everyone had their brakes replaced?

[honeykeeper]

Originally Posted by bestatchess

I think that there are "big brake" kits from Stop Tech and from Stillen. I think (not sure) that these require 20 inch wheels.
I have OEM size cross-drilled rotors and metal matrix pads from Stillen. The rotors seem much harder than OEM and the pads produce much less dust. I also have SS brake lines, Dot 4 fluid, and speed bleeders.

Originally Posted by tortuga

PrerunnerGreg has the same rotors and pads from stillen and his still produced judder... go figure!?!!

Thanks for the info. best and tort on the aftermarket options.
I would like to see others that installed aftermarket brakes and components chime in on this thread with their equipment, mileage and results so far.

[Daves_Titan]

Finally got my brake judder fix from the dealership yesterday. So far its so much smoother and easier to apply pressure on the brake and no more judder!

[pmj]

what parts are replaced when they do the "final" brake fix???
pmj
04 titan 4000k
no prev problems

[honeykeeper]

Originally Posted by pmj

what parts are replaced when they do the "final" brake fix???
pmj
04 titan 4000k
no prev problems

Here's a thread on TT that lists the parts from Tortuga:
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/show...hlight=Tortuga
and:
Here's what Jackalope posted on another forum:
My Truck was in today for the "Judder" problem the bill under warranty (going to Nissan) was $853.36.

I only have 4,000 miles on my truck and I felt the problem coming on around 3,200 miles mostly because there is a steep grade that I drive every day.

NICE improvement! go get it done

Parts changed:
Pad Kit - DISC _ _[06N/41060-ZC025] _ 1 at $140.83
Pad Kit - DISC BR [06N/44060-ZC025] _ 1 at $114.22
Bolt _ _ _ _ _ _ _ [06N/41005-7S000] _ 4 at $ 9.45
Rotor DISC BRAK [06N/40206-ZC01A] _ 2 at $152.28
Total parts: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ $597.41
Labor _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ $225.95
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Total: $853.36

[Smoke05]

Hmmm I just had my brakes done and there was also a mention of a torque clip (i'm pretty sure that's it, I'll check my invoice later). Fronts were replaced completely and the rears were turned and new pads installed. SO far the pedal feel s is better and they are more linear feeling. The original brakes were a bit grabby right off the lot.

[shyster54]

It's my limited understanding that the original problem with the rotors was related to size. However, even after the size increase, adequate ventilation was still a problem. Supposedly, both problems have been addressed with the latest fix. All I can say is...."we'll see...".

[johnnyscarecrow]

I have yet to have any brake problems... 05 XE 4x4 ....13,600mi since 6-20-05 with the old brakes....

[pmj]

[COLOR=Red[/color]guy's did the final fix increase the brake rotor diameter?? and or thickness for improved cooling???
pmj

[honeykeeper]

Originally Posted by pmj

[COLOR=Red[/color]guy's did the final fix increase the brake rotor diameter?? and or thickness for improved cooling???
pmj

Thicker diameter rotor......not much though......
Smaller cooling fins.......not sure if there are more??...can anyone confirm this????
So far it's working well in the mountains.

[johnszcz]

at 8500 miles I am still waiting for the judder to show up so I can get new brakes. However so far I have had no problem with the exception of the NAV computer going out on my 04 kc.

John

[adavis99]

After I had the break fix done there seems to be too much "play" in the brake pedal. The brakes aren't applied until I've pushed it down almost half way. Does this sound like a brake bleeding issue to you all? Does the final fix require bleeding the brakes?

Thanks,
AD

[Hawaiianbasshead]

pretty sure any complete good break job that includes front and rear involves bleeding the brakes. why wouldn't they other than they forgot?

[Smoke05]

The only reason you'd need to bleed brakes for a brake job with the mileage involved here would be if one or more lines were disconnected or they drained the resevoir. The TSB is for shudder not excessive brake wear or leakages.