weight distribution hitch or not?

GO_VOLS! · 01-09-2006, 12:59 PM

I'm probably going to purchase a 20' cargo trailer in the near future. My truck didn't come with the BT package, what do I need to do to get it preped for the maiden voyage?

Also, would I need a weight disbribution hitch or could I get by with a regular one? I'm not doing a bumper mount, don't worry I'm not that dumb.

sonnytimes · 01-09-2006, 01:01 PM

I think it would help out alot! Better safe than sorry!

Vyrus · 01-09-2006, 01:04 PM

You can use a regular class III hitch for up to 6000 lbs (Reese sell them for about $40 IIRC).

If you plan on towing more than 6000 lbs (up to 7500 since you don't have the BT or OR), or if your trailer is very tongue-heavy, you should get the weight distrubition hitch. Also consider a trailer with brakes if its that heavy and get yourself an electronic brake controller ($80).
-Cyrus

GO_VOLS! · 01-09-2006, 01:27 PM

I'd be moving furniture and boxes in this bizzle, so I don't know if I'd actually get it up past 6,000 pounds or not. I can't imagine a 20' trailer holding that much stuff. What do you think?

Vyrus · 01-09-2006, 01:43 PM

A 20' closed trailer would weigh more than half of that alone! Honestly I really depends on the stuff you're towing, but if I was in your shoes I think I'd be alright with a 5000lb hitch/reciever.
-Cyrus

GO_VOLS! · 01-09-2006, 01:51 PM

Can someone post a few pictures of their WD hitch on the truck? I've never had one. I've always had class III's when towing, so I'm not familiar with the WDs.

Also, if buying a used trailer, should I be worried about the condition of the trailer's axles much? I've heard of people buring them up.

Thanks!

Bhudda454 · 01-09-2006, 01:53 PM

I can promise you that Life in general will be a H*ll of a lot better on you and your truck if you spend the extra sheckles to get one. The cargo trailers will have way more tongue weight, and you will need this hitch to make the lighter loads. I sold a ton of these while I sold travel trailers. They are the Chit. www.equalizerhitch.com
They are not the cheapest, but they are the best. Very easy to hook and un hook also.

Bhudda454 · 01-09-2006, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GO_VOLS!

Can someone post a few pictures of their WD hitch on the truck? I've never had one. I've always had class III's when towing, so I'm not familiar with the WDs.

Also, if buying a used trailer, should I be worried about the condition of the trailer's axles much? I've heard of people buring them up.

Thanks!

If you are mechanically inclined. The first thing to do is replace the bearings and check out the brake system. Install buddy bearings on the trailer axles so you can lube them easier from then on. If you are not so inclined. A good mechaninc should not charge you too much to do this. You will save yourself a ton of headaches if you do it right off. I would also allow for some new tires. Get a good ten ply trailer tire and make sure the spare is also good. If you are only going to tow that trailer you will need a 10 ton bottle jack and a real breaker bar and correct socket. This will make life better when you have to change the blow out that happens at the absolute worst time. Sorry, not to jinx you, just that rat b*stard Murphy and his law.

*TitanFan59* · 01-09-2006, 02:50 PM

I would spend the extra for it just in case. I have an 8k Dutchmen TT and I like the fact I can get that level ride with the distribution hitch.

Woodworker · 01-15-2006, 02:47 PM

I can most certainly advise you to purchase a WD hitch. I have a 20' enclosed trailer that weighs just shy of 5000 # empty , add cargo and its in the 8500# range. Dont try install the thing yourself if you can afford to have it done by a professional . The advice they'll give you is worth the few hundred dollars. I think I paid about 550.00 installed. the titan cannot handle excessive tongue weight. Before I purchased the WD I towed with a class V ball and receiver and it caused my rear shocks too blow and intermitent drivetrain noise when going up or downhill. You dont need to purchased the antisway bars right off the bat. The WD hitch will improve overall ride quality and give you peace of mind. I can roll down the interstate @ 70mph with cruise control on , in third or forth gear and feel confident im in control. Not so without the WD hitch. Im talking white knuckle @ 60mph.

Quad T · 01-20-2006, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bhudda454

I sold a ton of these while I sold travel trailers. They are the Chit. www.equalizerhitch.com
They are not the cheapest, but they are the best. Very easy to hook and un hook also.

Holy crap, I'm sold after watching just half of that video.
I'm just now shopping for my open steel car hauler so I'm all new to this towing thing...

Cptnmatt · 01-20-2006, 11:02 AM

I pull a 21 foot Ragen toy hauler thats 5600 lbs empty, and with 100 gals of water 36 gals of gasoline a canoe and a Polaris 500 i'm pushing 7500 lbs. I would never haul that much without a WD hitch, I dont have the Equalizer brand but am very happy with mine, sorry no name on it but the WD bars are round and snap into the hitch and are held up by chains at the trailer, very smooth ride.

Matt

ptgarcia · 01-20-2006, 11:16 AM

If the loaded tongue weight is high enough you'll be forced to use a WD hitch. The receiver hitch itself is only rated to carry a certain load. I think a Class III is rated to carry a 500 lb load without WD and 750 lb with WD. Obviously Class IV and V's will be a bit more. So, be sure to check the ratings of everything before you buy!

**HudsonValleyTitan** · 01-20-2006, 11:34 AM

I use a Reese WD hitch with a Reese sway bar and can't be happier. I' couldn't imagine anyone not using a WD hitch for such large loads.

JefeCinco · 01-21-2006, 07:16 AM

If you are talking about a swaybar assisted WD hitch the decision should be based upon the type brakes your trailer will use.

BTW, all frame mounted hitches, including the factory installed hitches are weight distributing hitches.

If you will be using electric brakes such as used on RVs sway bar type hitches are OK to use. If you are going to use surge brakes such as used on boat trailers do not use a sway bar hitch. The action of the (anti) sway bar setup can interfere with surge brake operation.

For the use intended for your trailer I recommend electric (RV type) brakes. On most brake equipped trailers brakes are installed on only one axle. For slightly more money you can have brakes on both axles which is highly recommended for the kind of loads a large cargo trailer can haul. If you've never been pushed by your tow load during emergency braking you have something exciting to look forward to if your trailer brakes are not up to par.