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Tow Prep - transmission gauge, tranny flush or drain/fill?

6K views 46 replies 10 participants last post by  all torque 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi Everyone,

Looking to purchase a new Travel Trailer, but I want to make sure the truck is ready. I have an 06 LE Crew cab, with the 3.36 gears off road package and have 136,000 miles on it. I'm doing some other non-tow fixing/upgrading on this as well so I'll just list everything. Please help where you see fit! :)

1. Transmission Temp Gauge. I do not have one in the dash. I assume I need to drill into my transmission pan to install THIS sensor ? I was looking at this, based off rating and color only:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Green-...10016&sr=1-4&keywords=transmission+temp+gauge
1b. -- Is there a sensor/gauge package I can get that does not require drilling the pan? Please add links if you know of any :) Is there any chance this is installed and I just don't have a gauge? for example ppl say Bully Dog can monitor - but how if there is no sensor?

2. Tansmission flush/fill/drain/etc? Not sure what I should do here. I read posts saying you need to flush it, with 1 person pouring new fluid in and another person watching the fluid drain out. Then I read a thread that says no, just drain and fill. Your thoughts? I have never changed/drained/etc since purchased.

3. I'm pretty sure (not %100) my manifolds are cracked. Need to order Cajun cracked manifold package stage 1 -- any other way to tell other than sound? I can't tell if my truck ever sounded any different. It 'seems' a little louder when it's cold? But could just be me. It has a Borla muffler on it so it's a little louder...


I've ordered the fully assembled HD Titan front shock assemblies with Eibach springs from PRG -- still waiting for these to come in the mail

Need to install new Tie rod ends - waiting on PRG first...
Need to install prodigy p2 brake controller


Here's some truck history:

Purchased 3/2013 (around 115-120k miles, can't recall)
Replaced clock-spring in steering wheel (4/2013)
Replaced Axle seal - added Cajun Vent Kit (8/2013)
Replaced both front wheel bearings and both front lower ball joints (4/2014)
New Fuel pump (5/2015)
New Battery (5/2015)
New front brake Caliper (5/2015) 126k miles
Apparently 2016 was a good year for the T
Fixed front driver side window - getting stuck by cleaning motor (5/17)

So what else am I missing to tow? I could use big-tow mirrors, but no funds if I need stage 1 manifold fix... I could use tranny cooler and/or big pan, but again, no funds... So I need to monitor. If I have to stop b/c it's too hot, then so be it, but I need to know the temps at least.

Travel Trailer is Sportsment LE 231 BHLE It says weight is 4,630lbs. I assume that has to be dry...
Pennsylvania RV Dealer-Selling new and used travel trailer - fifth wheel RV campers. Keystone RV-Open Range RV-Highland Ridge RV-Palomino RV sales
 
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#2 ·
I feel their is a lot of confusion on what a flush is, people generally consider a flush to be forcibly pushing new fluid into the trans well others may think of it more like a fluid exchange where the trans sucks in new fluid as it pumps out old fluid itself. Its considered bad from everything I've read to do a forceful flush on any automatic.

I did a "fluid exchange" on my transmission last summer by myself and it has been great ever since. Here's the write up.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit.../371585-clear-greyish-transmission-fluid.html
 
#4 ·
Cool thanks Mac - you covered #2 and hopefully I'll be doing the fluid exchange this weekend!!

I answered my own questions for 1 and 1a. Looks like I do NOT need to drill and tap for trans temp sensor:
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-general-discussion/161262-transmission-temp-gauge.html

#3 covered, maybe. I also read elsewhere to check for the exhaust manifold leaks, you start truck cold, throw it in gear, stand on brakes, and revv it up around 3-4k - if you hear a bunch of exhaust noise up front, then likely cracked. I haven't tested this out yet. I don't want to do that super early in the am leaving for work, and dont' want to do it leaving work. lol I'll find time this weekend as well.

Anything else I need to look at before towing? I'm picking up the trailer linked above on Thursday and will have 2 hour tow home. I'm excited to see how she tow's! I've towed my Rzr and trailer over 8 hours to WV, but that's like 2200, maybe 2500lbs - wasn't noticeable towing it.


Indy - I'm not going to risk it. I'll be installing one before I go Thursday to get it :)
 
#5 ·
You probably will barely notice that is back there other than the wind drag at speed, maybe a little bit of sway when large vehicles go by. My travel trailer is 7,300 lbs dry.

Have to say, I'm impressed with the weight of that Travel Trailer you bought, the one in my sig line is my old bunk house, it's 31' (so tad longer) and was just under 6,000 dry. My T pulled that without any issue, and once you do headers and UpRev, should really pull easy considering I'm just running a BullyDog Gt and that made a difference on how man does with the load.
 
#6 ·
I'm in the same situation trying to get my old (new to me) Titan ready for a season of towing. I just have my tranmission to do so i cannot comment on that process yet but i am going to do the pan filter and refill then with the help of a friend run it and do the full fluid exchange.

I also would recommend doing a rear end fluid change. it is super easy and only requires a qt or so (cannot remember exactly). Some fresh royal purple will keep those gears cool while pulling uphill.

I did also add a passive transcooler and airlift helper bags but those do cost $$$.


What hitch are you using?
 
#7 ·
Im getting a hitch from the RV dealer - hooked up and everything for me, but it is similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Husky-32218-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BEYCYHTQ0BPKN9ENM568

Good idea on the rear end - i haven't changed that since the end of 2013 when I replaced the axle seal :)

I might as well do the front diff and transfer case too. Man the $$ just keep adding up!! Uprev and Cajun may be waiting even longer :( Or do I have a high risk of blowing the motor with cracked manifolds? I know it will throw off the 02 sensor, but not sure if it leans out or makes it more rich. More rich would be ok. if it makes it run lean, that's dangerous!
 
#8 ·
Yeah, I this "preventative maintenance" adds up. But i do like having the piece of mind knowing it was done right.



For a temporary fix on the crack - if you can locate it, I have had luck with the thermosteel stuff :

Blue-Magic-18003TRI-ThermoSteel-High-Temp


I know a lot a people said it sucks but i cleaned the area well and carefully applied according to directions. it is like a powdered metal in some high heat epoxy.

I also had a friend that then covered in chimney seal DAP 18854-Stove-Fireplace-Mortar-10-Ounce
He smeared it all over the manifold around the crack and used a heat gun to bake it on as per directions. It is holding up well.
 
#9 ·
I also had a friend that then covered in chimney seal DAP 18854-Stove-Fireplace-Mortar-10-Ounce
Your friend must be an old McGyver shade tree mechanic! Several companies have made similar products over the years and more than one set of manifolds have been sealed up without welding because of them! If you have to redo every 4-5 years or so....much cheaper than any of the other options!
 
#10 ·
Were you guys able to seal the cracks up with/out pulling the manifolds? Seems like a ton of work to pull them, then hope some magic epoxy holds up. I'm glad yours is working but dang that's a lot of work to do it again if it doesn't!!

I got the transmission exchange finished over the weekend. Not a bad job at all! Fluid didn't not seem like it was bad either, but was worth the piece of mind for me. While doing this job, I picked up all my fluids for the front diff, transfer case and rear diff as well. I noticed a leak in the seal that goes from the front diff to the transfer case... So gotta figure out what that is called and order up a new seal. Is this a DIY job? Doesn't look all too bad, but I've never done one of these.... Let me know what you think. I might even start a new post for it once I snap some pics....

Wife and I down to LerchRV and checked out the trailer, signed all the paper work. Pick up is Thursday - can't wait to see how she tow's!
 
#11 ·
A good scanner or phone app can read the temps, but all you really need is manual mode and a little common sense.

I would do a spill and fill, by removing the pan. That will get a little more fluid out. Assess the condition of the fluid coming out and if it's really bad you can do a spill and fill again.
 
#12 ·
#13 ·
With regards to obd scanners - I have a couple and use the torque app for android. it works pretty well. For the titan I got the bully dog so i did the little tune and have it permanently mounted to monitor temps while towing.


I would be sure to read reviews first. I know Iphones do not like the bluetooth scanners and you must use a wifi version. Even then some of them fail to connect. But there are enough options on amazon that i am sure you can find one that works. Most also allow you to read and clear CELs but I find the description and code is very generic but at least it gives you a little knowledge before going to a shop.
 
#15 ·
I thought the phone apps would display trans temp, my bad.
I have a CRP scanner that displays both temp readouts, it was about 250 bucks. I see no need for it honestly, even though it is good piece of mind. Shifting manually and keeping a lower gear is the best thing to do when hauling heavy stuff.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Rage232, my experience towing with my Titan is that it does awesome on flat terrain, but heavy loads (greater than 6K) on steeper terrain can be challenging. The 6k to 11k elevation doesn't help. Many forum members are keeping transmission temperatures down by adding a cooler in front of the radiator/condenser and adding a PML transmission pan that has more fluid capacity. I added a cooler and it helps some. What made the biggest impact on my ability to tow heavy and steep was to slow down to 45 MPH and gear down to 3rd. Our transmissions like higher RPM's which pumps more fluid through the transmission. Slow speeds (< 30 MPH) and lower RPM's can be problematic. For example, last fall I got caught in a white-out while towing my ATV (Polaris Ranger 900) and a truck full of camping/hunting gear. I was doing maybe 5 MPH trying to keep it on the road in 4x4. I wasn't watching the gauges and I eventually glanced down to see my transmission gauge very close to the top. I immediately shifted down to 1st gear and the transmission temperature gauge went back to normal within seconds.

It sounds like you're headed for JBA LT headers. That solves the cracked manifolds problem for good. I recommend getting it fixed ASAP as the cracked manifolds can cause the forward catalytic converters to go bad and destroy the engine. However, once the headers are in and you're tuned properly you'll find that the engine can get by at a lower RPM in a higher gear instead of forcing the transmission to shift down. The problem there is that the transmission really doesn't like the lower RPM.

Now, having said all that, my hunting partner drives a '07 Armada outfitted just like my Titan. He pulls a travel trailer that has to be at least 8,000 lbs up the same roads I do. He didn't know any of what I said above and he was routinely running for miles with his transmission gauge right at the hot range. He has 160,000+ miles now and the transmission doesn't seem to have any issues. He has done a couple of fluid exchanges. I don't know how his transmission hasn't spewed fluid all over the place. Last year he put in the extra transmission cooler and he said it made a positive difference in his transmission temperatures.

The hitch your dealer is hooking you up with is not one that I'm familiar with but I will say that any Weight Distributing Hitch is better than none. You're close to the point where a WDH is necessary. I prefer to use one even for lower weights (but not with my ATV trailer) because it can help reduce sway.

I have the Prodigy P3 brake controller. It's a great unit. Absolutely zero problems and it performs very well. It's the #1 recommended controller on TitanTalk.
 
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#19 ·
Rage232, my experience towing with my Titan is that it does awesome on flat terrain, but heavy loads (greater than 6K) on steeper terrain can be challenging. The 6k to 11k elevation doesn't help. Many forum members are keeping transmission temperatures down by adding a cooler in front of the radiator/condenser and adding a PML transmission pan that has more fluid capacity. I added a cooler and it helps some. What made the biggest impact on my ability to tow heavy and steep was to slow down to 45 MPH and gear down to 3rd. Our transmissions like higher RPM's which pumps more fluid through the transmission. Slow speeds (< 30 MPH) and lower RPM's can be problematic. For example, last fall I got caught in a white-out while towing my ATV (Polaris Ranger 900) and a truck full of camping/hunting gear. I was doing maybe 5 MPH trying to keep it on the road in 4x4. I wasn't watching the gauges and I eventually glanced down to see my transmission gauge very close to the top. I immediately shifted down to 1st gear and the transmission temperature gauge went back to normal within seconds.

It sounds like you're headed for JBA LT headers. That solves the cracked manifolds problem for good. I recommend getting it fixed ASAP as the cracked manifolds can cause the forward catalytic converters to go bad and destroy the engine. However, once the headers are in and you're tuned properly you'll find that the engine can get by at a lower RPM in a higher gear instead of forcing the transmission to shift down. The problem there is that the transmission really doesn't like the lower RPM.

Now, having said all that, my hunting partner drives a '07 Armada outfitted just like my Titan. He pulls a travel trailer that has to be at least 8,000 lbs up the same roads I do. He didn't know any of what I said above and he was routinely running for miles with his transmission gauge right at the hot range. He has 160,000+ miles now and the transmission doesn't seem to have any issues. He has done a couple of fluid exchanges. I don't know how his transmission hasn't spewed fluid all over the place. Last year he put in the extra transmission cooler and he said it made a positive difference in his transmission temperatures.

The hitch your dealer is hooking you up with is not one that I'm familiar with but I will say that any Weight Distributing Hitch is better than none. You're close to the point where a WDH is necessary. I prefer to use one even for lower weights (but not with my ATV trailer) because it can help reduce sway.

I have the Prodigy P3 brake controller. It's a great unit. Absolutely zero problems and it performs very well. It's the #1 recommended controller on TitaTalk.
Wow that's crazy about low speed and rpm's. makes sense to revv it out and get that fluid moving. I towed my Rzr800s to hat field mccoy in West Virginia from PA (about 8 hours and lots of hills). I had the wife with me, bunch of tools and gear - but I wouldn't say we had more than 3500-4000 lbs total. I towed in D4 and shifted to 3rd for some larger long hills. I do not have any temp gauge, but never had any issues. I must of been ok since the fluid (from doing the exchange) still looked pretty good. But it was in my head the whole time (from reading these forums). I just want to be extra safe with the Travel Trailer, as having it loaded with gear, kids, water, etc I'm sure I'll be up over 6k.
I bought the Prodigy P2 back 2013 shortly after getting my truck. I don't think the P3 was even out yet, but the P2 has just been sitting around waiting for this day lol It's installed and ready to go :)

My MaxTow gauge should be here today. I plan on installing that and doing an oil change tonight. I'm pretty sure I read on here that the hottest I should allow the temps to get is 220 degree's. If it hits that, I'll have to pull over and let her cool down.

My wife is from Colorado - she's already thinking we could tow it out there for a vacation. I'm guessing KS and NE would be the worst - with 75mph speed limit and all the wind!!
I've done that drive from PA to CO, probably 8 times now. Fastest trip was 19 hours straight, but that was by myself and 13 years ago lol I don't think I could drive it straight through anymore, especially with the kids, and would never attempt that while towing! Crappy thing is the wife will be scared to tow so i'd be doing 100% of the driving -- actually I'd prolly be too nervous to sleep with her towing!

ok enough rambling for me on this one - I'll post pics of the gauge once I have it installed -- If my phone is fixed by then...
 
#17 ·
Slow speed = no air across the cooler. I wouldn't let the built in gauge scare me too much though, as long as it's not beyond "normal".

Understanding how a torque converter works is the key.
 
#18 ·
RE: the recommended hitch. I'm not familiar with the Brand, but it's an upgrade in terms of engineering from the trunion or tube style W/D with an anti-sway component added on. The model you were recommended is a 'two-point' that incorporates both W/D and anti-sway into a more compact unit with the side benefit of being able to back up without having to disconnect the anti-sway component beforehand.

Here's a video that explains all types...trunion (which I have), tube, two point and four point hitches and their application.
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Weight_Distribution.aspx
 
#20 ·
Check your trailer tires. Many ST rated tires have a maximum speed limit of 65 MPH. Be sure you air the trailer tires right up to their PSI limit. Trailer tires are not like LT tires which have a range.

So 75 MPH may not be in your future when pulling a trailer.
 
#21 ·
The effect of 'out of range' temperatures on ATF is cumulative. Short forays into temperatures that do damage to various components, can result in instantaneous effect. Heat effects are twofold...one effect of the higher than normal heat is the total deterioration of the fluid to do what it's designed to do. The other is the destruction of seals, bearings, clutches etc. within.

Here's a pair of fairly standard charts used in the transmission biz to shed light on the damages from various heat cycles.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...2n4DTkwpx1guy1oKbpX_e52A&ust=1494438888443858

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...2n4DTkwpx1guy1oKbpX_e52A&ust=1494438888443858
 
#22 ·
Nick, I have no doubt that roasting the transmission fluid is detrimental to the life of the transmission. However, I question the charts. On my F-350 I'm regularly running above 190 degrees F, unloaded. I'm reading that while towing it won't be unusual for my fluid to be around 240 and I'll still see a 100K duty cycle. Maybe those charts are for dino, not synthetic?

I'm beginning to question how aggressive the Titan transmission gauge is. I'm thinking it is reacting too aggressively and - as was said earlier - as long as you're not in the overheat zone you're fine. Still, I think Nissan could have put a beefier transmission in the Titan that worked better with towing.
 
#25 ·
Nick, I have no doubt that roasting the transmission fluid is detrimental to the life of the transmission. However, I question the charts.
Sorry, this is long........

My understanding of automotive fluids in general, and specific to ATF is that the deterioration of the additive package performance is at issue. The base of dino or synthetic is somewhat of a misnomer....all ATF, power steering, shock and brake fluids are basically hydraulic fluids with additives specific to their application. Anti foam, super wetting, friction modifiers and so on. Even the red in ATF is only coloring to differentiate it from other hydraulic fluids as a bit of marketing. Unless it boils, the base itself doesn't change chemistry. All of this goes out the window, IF (big if), your trans is specified to use synthetic and you put in organic based. That's a no no. Generally, if an organic is specified, such as the old Ford type F and you go to synthetic...things should work fine....but the heat issues of deteriorating additive properties doesn't change. There are trans specs that also specify ATF with super friction modifiers....using a syn or organic without those additives will not work either...no matter how well you control the heat issues.

I get this from a racing buddy who works at Lubrizol in research. They produce most of the additives for the companies and they are based on what each manufacturer specifies, which in turn come from the auto (BMW, Benz, GM etc) or sub system manufacturer (Dana etc.). A clear example of this is Hyundai...they had, at one time, an additive in their parts catalog that was specified for their transmissions. It had to be added to Dexron-III/Mercon ATF or the tranny wouldn't shift. Anyway, these additives are what supposedly deteriorate due to the heat cycling and once they do, the effects of higher temperatures shown in the charts are the result of parts deteriorating at a faster rate. An example is the darkening or browning of the ATF over time...it's the result of suspended soft part deterioration, such as the clutches. It smells burnt in most cases because that's what happened, the clutch became overheated and lost some of the very top surface into the fluid. As explained to me, the fluid, if below whatever the temp that causes that deterioration of friction control will prevent that surface transfer for a much longer time.

So, to answer you....the charts are a guide that in lieu of contrary data I tend to use as my guide. I haven't been made aware of any product that claims to perform better than the charts suggest. I've always used both an oil, power steering and transmission cooler on my race car. I only use a trans cooler on my Titan for towing.

Hope for the best.....plan for the worst.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Thanks everyone.

I got the transmission temp gauge installed. I used the MaxTow gauge from my original post:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095ZKA06?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

I got it installed in approx 3 hours... But that includes several breaks running in and out of the house for the kids, dog and twice for "rust removal" from my eyes...

I didn't use any extended wires. I ran the 2 wires (that connect to the sensor) through the existing hole in the firewall - drivers side hood release. Problem is, the existing wires had nice connectors on them, but were too large for the hole... So I cut the connectors off, taped the wires to a straightened coat hanger and shoved em through. Once on the other side, I pulled the wire up, ran it as close to the firewall as I could towards the passenger side and down to the transmission. Once I got the test port open, I installed the sensor. I put the rubber o-ring that came off the test port back onto the sensor, along with some teflan tape. Will find out today if I have any leaks - but so far so good. Then I had to re-wire the damn connectors back on while under the truck - that was fun!

I used the fuse box for constant 12v as well as accessory 12v. I used the radio for accessory and used the powerport/cigarette lighter fuses with one of those mini fuse taps:
https://www.amazon.com/Support-circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B00SUTYYS2

I have the gauge in the center above the cd player.. I don't have pics of the install since my phone is out of commission. I'll take a pic of it installed after my phone is fixed.
On a good note - I fixed my broken glove box when I removed it for the wiring :)

On a bad note... I had the layout of the fuses backwards... So once I got it all installed, I re-connected the battery and turned the truck to ACC. I noticed then that no lights or movement on the tranny gauge. So I pulled the fuses and swapped them a time or 2... scratching my head... Once I realized I was backwards, I then pulled the correct fuses and all wired in, everything working great! Accept now I have the driver side airbag light flashing on the dash... (forgot to disconnect the battery the 2nd time) I read on here somewhere to pull the fuse for that, wait a few mins and plug back in. But it doesn't specify to pull with battery unplugged, truck off, truck on ACC, etc... I'll keep researching that one... Also read some crazy turn key to acc/off 50 times in the magical correct order with impeccable timing and that'll reset it... lol wow...


Over all it wasn't a bad job. It's functional and looks good - can't complain! Next up will be to order the headers and uprev from Cajun...
 
#36 ·
I did a screen shot of the instructions to reset the airbag light. It really works.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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#26 ·
Another thing to consider is that your gauge is reading just the transmission temperature...Torque converter temps can skyrocket in no time. It takes a little time for that TC heat to infect the rest of the tranny.
In other words, you must be careful, because it is possible to burn the fluid before your gauge warns you of it.
 
#27 ·
I'd you want to squash any potential problems just put in a tru-cool transmission cooler & do the Bypass Mod, that was the only way I could solve heating problems while on this dirt road I use every time I go to my camping spot. No speed + Long Hill & 5-6k worth of trailer = 220° + temps.
Also, if anyone tells you that you T will pull 6k+ with ease is completely lying out their A$$, any thing over 3k starts to work the truck, especially if there is 6% + grades involved.
I've hit 95 mph while pulling my trailer with just 1 quad, was gaining speed going down a hill to hit the 7% 5 mile up grade.

The inline transmission temp probe needs to be on the Hot Line to be accurate.
 
#28 ·
lmao you guys are killing me with all this oil science and torq converter vrs tranny etc.... Bottom line is this... If my transmission temp shoots up over 220 (yes I know oil may already be breaking down or whatever) but at least I will know and can shift or pull over etc... W/out a gauge of any kind, i'll only find out when something breaks which is obviously too late at that point.... ANYWAY back to the good stuff. Here's a pic of my install. I still need to cut out the little mat piece that goes on the bottom... Didn't have time last night - Pens game 7 took up all of my time :) Sorry for the sidwayz pics.. Phones fault - not mine lol ;)
 

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#31 ·
Sounds like a good first tow.

The faster you go, the worse your MPG. Most trailer tires aren't rated for speeds in excess of 65 MPH, so there's a good excuse to slow down. Most trailer tires are also crap. Lots of guys call them "China Bombs" because they're made in China and they're ready to explode at any time. So keep an eye on them.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Nice camper!

Now that you know what she'll do it's time to ride easy. Your torque converter could still be getting quite a bit hotter than 209.
I'll take some some pics of both temperature readouts next time I hook up my scanner.

HRTKD, we call them "Maypop" tires where I'm from.....cheap!
 
#33 ·
Thanks Guys - I'll be checking on those tires. I figure the speed ratings are mostly for heat, it was 45 degree's out and rain. Figure'd I'd be safe... I'll def be going slower with the fam. ;)

I left a VM for Jeff at Cajun. My CC's going to end up having more on it than my truck is actually worth here shortly!
 
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