Roadmaster Active Suspension = AWESOME!

[cneary812]

Originally Posted by BoneDaddy

Alright! I'm finally dialed in... I just installed my RAS (XL) today and it was just what the doctor ordered.

I had lowered my truck using the 3rd leaf removal method in the back, and frankly, it was riding pretty crappy. I literally felt every bump and was bottoming out constantly. I liked the low,low look, but it just wasn't functional.

After doing my homework and listening to some of you on here talk about the RAS, I though I would give it a shot. And for $55.00 delevered (Thanks for the ebay dial in Quartz), I figured, what have I got lose...

It did raise the back up about 3/4 of an inch, which I felt it needed as it was looking a little too squatty in the back. It now rides litterally 100x better than it did before. I removed the bumpstops and now it doesn't even come close to bottoming out. I guess the best way to describe it is getting (damn near) your full suspension back after lowering it. Keep in mind though, I'm not "slammed". I basically brought the front down a hair and leveled it out in the rear.

Anyway, if you are thinking about doing this, I would HIGHLY recommend it. And I would highly recommend going on ebay and checking out jmspeedcenter for your purchase. I got lucky with my price cause no one bid against me, but I have seen many go through there for 1/3 of the retail cost.

Best of luck out there. And thanks for the good advice.

wow great price! You will definately be happy with your decision.

[Quartz]

Originally Posted by BoneDaddy

Alright! I'm finally dialed in... I just installed my RAS (XL) today and it was just what the doctor ordered.

I had lowered my truck using the 3rd leaf removal method in the back, and frankly, it was riding pretty crappy. I literally felt every bump and was bottoming out constantly. I liked the low,low look, but it just wasn't functional.

After doing my homework and listening to some of you on here talk about the RAS, I though I would give it a shot. And for $55.00 delevered (Thanks for the ebay dial in Quartz), I figured, what have I got lose...

It did raise the back up about 3/4 of an inch, which I felt it needed as it was looking a little too squatty in the back. It now rides litterally 100x better than it did before. I removed the bumpstops and now it doesn't even come close to bottoming out. I guess the best way to describe it is getting (damn near) your full suspension back after lowering it. Keep in mind though, I'm not "slammed". I basically brought the front down a hair and leveled it out in the rear.

Anyway, if you are thinking about doing this, I would HIGHLY recommend it. And I would highly recommend going on ebay and checking out jmspeedcenter for your purchase. I got lucky with my price cause no one bid against me, but I have seen many go through there for 1/3 of the retail cost.

Best of luck out there. And thanks for the good advice.

I'm glad to see everything worked out so well for you. It's hard to beat the jmspeedcenter price on ebay.

[Seranin]

bumping this thread...

has anyone loaded the bed to capacity (or beyond) with the RAS? Does it change the character of the suspension (maybe for the better)?

I too was/am thinking about air bags for my '08 pro4x (7' bed)... anytime I get any real weight in the bed the rear end of the truck sinks & makes me wish I had gotten a 3/4 ton...

For the price maybe I should just buy it and find out

[cneary812]

Originally Posted by Seranin

bumping this thread...

has anyone loaded the bed to capacity (or beyond) with the RAS? Does it change the character of the suspension (maybe for the better)?

I too was/am thinking about air bags for my '08 pro4x (7' bed)... anytime I get any real weight in the bed the rear end of the truck sinks & makes me wish I had gotten a 3/4 ton...

For the price maybe I should just buy it and find out

The bed still drops some but nowhere near as low as it used to. If you think you are going to load full or over capacity often definately get the XXF kit That spring is quite impressive.

[gasa765]

I'm automotively mechancially challenged, but what is the difference between the RAS and air bags? What does one do for you better than the other?
The reason I'm asking is we tow a 2004 Fleetwood Terry with a GVWR of 7900 lbs and the hitch weight is 1125 lbs. This creates some sag on the rear end when we hitch up leaving just a couple inches of clearance over the rear tires. Which of the two systems would be better in alleviating this problem.
We're planning a 500 mile roundtrip vacation in Oct and want to have something in place by then. Thanks for the help.

[cneary812]

Originally Posted by gasa765

I'm automotively mechancially challenged, but what is the difference between the RAS and air bags? What does one do for you better than the other?
The reason I'm asking is we tow a 2004 Fleetwood Terry with a GVWR of 7900 lbs and the hitch weight is 1125 lbs. This creates some sag on the rear end when we hitch up leaving just a couple inches of clearance over the rear tires. Which of the two systems would be better in alleviating this problem.
We're planning a 500 mile roundtrip vacation in Oct and want to have something in place by then. Thanks for the help.

wow thats alot of weight on that hitch. You should see if you can get your axles moved forward a bit on that trailer or try to balance it out a bit.

The RAS is a big spring that holds tention on the top of the leaf keeping the leaf's arched and not allowing them to flatten out.

Airbags are just that airbags that go between the axle and the frame to stiffen up the load capacity.

They both will do the same job for load carrying but the RAS also acts as a sway bar and it is only a big spring, so less maintenance issues than an airbag.

[Mrhavasu]

Get the air bags. I took my roadmaster off and put on air lift bags. The bags do the job, the roadmaster rides great, and I even have the xxf set, but not enough for my 1000lb tougne weight.

[gasa765]

Originally Posted by cneary812

wow thats alot of weight on that hitch. You should see if you can get your axles moved forward a bit on that trailer or try to balance it out a bit.

The RAS is a big spring that holds tention on the top of the leaf keeping the leaf's arched and not allowing them to flatten out.

Airbags are just that airbags that go between the axle and the frame to stiffen up the load capacity.

They both will do the same job for load carrying but the RAS also acts as a sway bar and it is only a big spring, so less maintenance issues than an airbag.

As far as the weight goes, I'm using a Reese Weight distribution hitch with a friction anti sway bar. According to the manual, I should be able to have up to 1400 lbs in tongue weight using a weight distribution hitch.
Does your manual indicate differently?
Thanks

[cneary812]

Originally Posted by gasa765

As far as the weight goes, I'm using a Reese Weight distribution hitch with a friction anti sway bar. According to the manual, I should be able to have up to 1400 lbs in tongue weight using a weight distribution hitch.
Does your manual indicate differently?
Thanks

I don't currently tow anything with my truck. I mainly haul stuff in the bed and use the RAS for its anti sway properties. I just know that the WD hitch is designed to transfer the weight to the front wheels and frame but I don't believe you should have that much tongue load if you can help it for a 1/2 ton. Now I could be wrong about that but when the max towing capacity of a titan is up to 9500 lbs with 950 tongue... that is with a WD, and 1100 is more than 950. Just because the hitch can go to 1400 doesn't mean the truck is designed to handle that.

[Smoke05]

The bump stops mentioned. Are they the ones on the top of the leaf springs where the U bolts are? Or is it the round ones on the shackles? Also, does the axle anchor bracket self locate or do I need to measure and center it? The instructions are a little vague. Planning on doing the install tomorrow!

[cneary812]

Originally Posted by Smoke05

The bump stops mentioned. Are they the ones on the top of the leaf springs where the U bolts are? Or is it the round ones on the shackles? Also, does the axle anchor bracket self locate or do I need to measure and center it? The instructions are a little vague. Planning on doing the install tomorrow!

its the little round rubber bumper above the leaf. It is held on by a allen screw. The spring goes right where it is so it has to be removed.

the axle anchor bracket goes under the plate. The top of the leaf has a bolt that the bracket hole sits on. then you bolt the ubolts down and its part of the whole package.

[Smoke05]

Originally Posted by cneary812

its the little round rubber bumper above the leaf. It is held on by a allen screw. The spring goes right where it is so it has to be removed.

the axle anchor bracket goes under the plate. The top of the leaf has a bolt that the bracket hole sits on. then you bolt the ubolts down and its part of the whole package.

Cool! Thanks! Now to see if PB Blaster lives up to it's reputation on the bolts for those bumpers. Thankfully the U bolts are nice and new thanks to the PRG Kit I put on in July!! Off I go!

[dd_dailydriver]

no longer available for so cheap on ebay?

[Smoke05]

All done! Took me 2hrs. Not bad considering I had my 3.5 year old son helping me out and had to do it on my upper driveway and not outside the garage door where my tools are. I looked through the extra paperwork the RAS came with and noticed they printed what to do got the rubber roller bump stops. DUH! I saw the side that mentioned fitting it to a Ford with overload springs and assumed that is all it covered. The bolts would not come out even with the PB Blaster. More than likely due the crappy allen wrench I had more than anything. Nothing a utility knife couldn't fix . I am kind of glad I cut away the rubber as the bolt was rusting pretty severely underneath from moisture retention. I think some PRG shackles are in my future as well for peace of mind. As far as performance, so far it has done as advertised as far as cornering. The truck does feel more flat and stable around turns. It also feels like the throttle response is better like the drive line is a little tighter, but that may be my imagination. The true test will be when I hook up my travel trailer in 2 weeks and do the annual 8hr drive to Acadia NP in Maine. I will be sure to report the results.

[Yahooligan]

Sorry for bringing up a thread from the dead, but this thread seemed to have the most/best info in it and though it would be good to add to it.

So, I'm currently trying to install the RAS and my first issue has to do with u-bolt length. With the RAS bracket AND bump stop centering plate in place I don't have enough length on the u-bolts. There are still a few threads in the nut that aren't used, so what did you folks do to resolve this? Or do I have odd u-bolts? Hellllllp!