No running lights (sorry... another light ?)

SirKeats · 03-16-2008, 02:40 PM

First - I have a 2007 2wd XE. I added the hitch myself so it didn't come with a tow package.

I was tinkering with my lights on my camper. Had a bad connection on one of the tail light bulbs and the turn signal wasn't working.

When I started... the running lights WERE working.

After tinkering with the bulb (it had some corrosion that I brushed off) the blinker now works, but I've lost all of my running lights.

Busted out the volt meter and found that I've got NO juice going to the running lights prong (or whatever you call it) on the hitch... so obviously the problem is with the truck and not the trailer.

I'm guessing I blew one of the tow relays or something. Problem is, I have no idea which relay controls running lights... nor do I have any idea how to test to make sure this is indeed the problem.

So, my questions for you titan geniuses:

1) Which relay controls the trailer running lights?
2) How do you test a relay to see if it's bad (or is it one of those "replace it and hope for the best) kind of deals?

Thanks gents!

SirKeats · 03-16-2008, 06:15 PM

So after some searching around here... I'm guessing that this relay is my problem:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=25230-79945

so i take it me futzing around with a bulb on the trailer can cause this relay to blow?

is there any way for me to test to make sure? i only have one relay in my truck of this type so i cant swap and test.

**Carbeaux** · 03-16-2008, 06:19 PM

You could pull that relay, get the trusty volt meter and make sure that you have power being fed to the relay itself. If so, it would almost certainly limit you to the relay itself being the issue.

SirKeats · 03-16-2008, 06:42 PM

thanks for the tip!

how do i do that? LOL. i mean, i have a meter as well as a simple power tester (i.e. the type with the bulb that lights up when something has power) and know how to use them... so by how do i do that... i mean how do i know which "ports" (whatever you wanna call the things that the prongs on the relay plug into) are supposed to have power and which aren't?

could the nissan dealer test the relay itself for me? or perhaps just a regular auto parts store?

thanks!

**Carbeaux** · 03-16-2008, 06:49 PM

You should only have two with power being fed into them, and you won't hurt anything by testing them all with the voltmeter. One would be a constant source when the ignition is on. The other would only have power when you've got the lights on. That's the trigger, and the other the main power feed.

**TitanTeamRoper** · 03-16-2008, 06:50 PM

I know that there is a Running light fuse, I have had to change mine serveral time while installing all my new light on my trailer, but i don't now if you have the 7-way plug

**Carbeaux** · 03-16-2008, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitanTeamRoper

I now that there is a Running light fuse, I have had to change mine serveral time while installing all my new light on my trailer, but i don't now if you have the 7-way plug

And a fuse would be exactly where to look next if there's not the correct power being fed to the relay.

SirKeats · 03-16-2008, 07:29 PM

i do have the 7-slot plug (standard RV plug).

i checked all of the 10amp fuzes under the hood and in the passenger side compartment and all were good.

where, exactly, is the running light fuze?

thanks carb... will test relay port to make sure i'm getting proper power.

**TitanTeamRoper** · 03-16-2008, 07:39 PM

Quote:

where, exactly, is the running light fuze?

If I can remember correctly its under the hood, and it a pain in the a** to change, it should be the last one in the second row of fuses.

young dank · 03-16-2008, 08:02 PM

first, take your tester and ground it on the bumper and turn your hazard lights on and headlights and see if your 7 pin plug has fire. that will narrow it down. if some work and some don't, its the truck. if they work its the trailer. your BCM should keep your relays from blowing. the 10 amp plug should be changed. remember you should have 2 blue relays and 1 brown relay underhood behind the battery. the two blue relays should be side by side and behind the one brown relay for the trailer brake.

**loufish** · 03-16-2008, 08:44 PM

If your lic plate bulb (on the truck) is out, then check #37 fuse, it lights the lic plate and provides the 12v for controling the "Tail light" relay.
If the lic plate bulb is lit, then check #32 fuse, this is the load side of the same relay. If both of those are good, then it's time to check the relay.

I'm guessing when fiddeling around you shorted the power to ground and blew the #32 fuse.
Both should be 10 amps

young dank · 03-16-2008, 10:00 PM

oh MYTITAN, you have an '05, you only have 1 blue relay. its your trailer dawg. test your pins, but I think its your trailer. cause one relay controls both lights. you might need to rewire the left side due too a short. or ground it better. the frame might be rusted. what kind of trailer is it?

SirKeats · 03-17-2008, 07:13 AM

thanks gents.

here's where i am:

i have an 04... so i two brown and one blue (not two blue) relays.

i checked ALL of the 10am fuzes under the good and all appeared good. is it possible to blow one of them without it looking blown? i'll check again the specific fuze numbers you mention.

it's definitely the truck. as i mentioned before, there's no juice going to the running light "pin" at the hitch... so somewhere between the front of the car (where it's controlled) and the hitch at the rear, there's a problem.

if my BCM is supposed to protect the relays... and the relay is bad... i'm gonna see if i can haggle for a free relay. LOL. doubt i'll get it, but hey, 30 bucks is 30 bucks and that's kind of bogus that simply futzing with a tail light could burn it out.

anyway... will check what y'all mentioned on the truck and report back. thanks!

young dank · 03-17-2008, 06:54 PM

hey, did you have your headlights on when you tested that running lights pin on your 7 pin rv connecter? if the lights not on, you won't get any fire.

SirKeats · 03-20-2008, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carbeaux

You should only have two with power being fed into them, and you won't hurt anything by testing them all with the voltmeter. One would be a constant source when the ignition is on. The other would only have power when you've got the lights on. That's the trigger, and the other the main power feed.

so the nissan dealer won't test the relay and won't take a new relay back if that's not the problem... and they won't tell me how to test the relay... so i'm on my own.

carbeaux: if two are power... does that mean the other two are ground?