Hardwired MP3 Player - Page 3

Sammy Sandbag · 12-08-2004, 07:56 PM

No, your ground (or common) is not the inner wire, it's the braded wire surrounding that inner plastic coating that covers the center wire (signal.) Both of these common (also known as shield) are joined then spliced to the AUX input's ground wire. The other two are your signal (right and left.)

Mustard · 12-08-2004, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stomper4x4

I use a ipod thru the aux port with a belkin ipod car charger. It uses the dock connecter line out on the ipod not the headphone jack. It sounds great way better that useing the head phone jack. The head phone jack on the ipod also has the ipod EQ settings applied to it. (if you have the ipod eq on) but the line out drops the eq. Which is a good thing since you don't want to be running your music thru two EQ's or it could get over sampled. I think head phone jacks have FCC imposed deciable limitations to prevent hearing damage which is why many folks have to add inline amps, but if your device has a line out that should be better.

I was thinking of hardwireing my ipod into the XM radio port leaving the AUX open for a portable DVD player or something else. Anyone wire alternate sources into the XM port?

I have the same setup on mine. The Ipod sounds 10x better using the line out on the mini dock than the headphone output everwanted to sound. I am blown away by how go it sounds. I think it sounds better using the Ipod than listening to the CD player. I currently encode using AAC @192kbs.

Pugsly · 12-09-2004, 06:34 AM

ok so i just had it backwards. i just assumed the thicker wires were the signal, but i was wrong.
Just to confirm the wire (from outside in ) is: outer covering - ground(shield) wire - inner plastic covering - signal wire. Right?

Sammy Sandbag · 12-09-2004, 04:16 PM

You are correct. That wire within the inner plastic insulator is the signal. The braded shield is your common/ground/shield.

Pete Rock · 01-18-2005, 09:46 AM

i had been frustrated for months about the sound of my xm until i read this post. the pictures were really helpful. i was able to boost the volume on my xm, mp3 player and dvd player. i really love my satellite radio now

lsutyger · 03-14-2005, 10:30 AM

Sammy,
Thanks for this article. I finally got around to installing the PIE Line Driver in my Titan this weekend.

I was able to splice it inline with the aux input, and am very pleased with the performance. My wife approved as well!

usulsuspct · 07-20-2005, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sammy Sandbag

Unfortunately I haven't found the time to get around to finding a fix. My guess is that a ground loop isolator would fix the problem. Are you experiencing the same problem? Do you also have the PIE amp wired in as well? Hopefully over Christmas leave I'll be able to work on this.

Before I bought my Titan I had my Sirius plug-n-play unit hardwired to the factory deck. Part of the install required me to tap into the cars power to run the sat-rad unit. As soon as I did this I got engine whine and alternator noise. I bought a ground loop isolator from radio shack and that solved all of the engine noise issues.

I think I paid like $10-$20 for it, so it is well worth the money (you can always take it back if it doesnt work.)

RedAlert · 09-30-2005, 09:41 AM

This belkin adapter What does it look like....

*Contra* · 11-06-2005, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sammy Sandbag

My LOC is also behind my stereo, there's room. Actually I mounted the LOC above the HU and the PIE below.

new to Titan

what is LOC?

bestatchess · 11-06-2005, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Contra

new to Titan

what is LOC?

Line output converter. This is used to connect the speaker outs of a head unit with no RCA pre-outs to aftermarket amplifiers.

One example is the NE-774 V

http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm

This is a four channel LOC (front left, front right, rear left, rear right).

04Sedona · 12-18-2005, 08:18 AM

Here's my post installation addendum to Sammy's excellent install description.

There are four clips that hold the center dash face plate panel in place. They are located mid-way up each side of the panel. I used a very thin, very flexible putty knife and was able to loosen one side by sliding the putty knife behind the panel, then was able to carefully wiggle the second side out using the same technique. The top and bottom of the panel snaps into place pivoting from bottom to top. There isn't much room until you release all of the wired connectors on the back of this panel. If your shift lever on the console it may be easier to switch on the ignition key and move the shifter back to the 1-2 position until you get the connectors off.

The switched 12V+ power wire is the violet wire behind the head unit (HU). Four screws hold the HU in place. Take the HU out and cut the violet wire on the right side connector (facing the dash) and splice in the PIE fused power wire.

Otherwise this is a pretty simple operation as described in Sammy's post at the top of this thread.

Stranger · 03-15-2006, 12:38 AM

Tapping into the AUX wires have other advantages, when actually tuning into stereo or CD, the wife can use the AUX jack as a headphone jack and listen to the Ipod. I installed two extra AUX jacks inside the dash tapped off the AUX wires to hide wires and figured this out late one night. Nice and clean.

**faith+1** · 06-05-2006, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04Sedona

The switched 12V+ power wire is the violet wire behind the head unit (HU). Four screws hold the HU in place. Take the HU out and cut the violet wire on the right side connector (facing the dash) and splice in the PIE fused power wire.

I apologize to bring this thread back up.. But Im having a slight issue with the PIE LD-1 and I think It could be how I hooked it up to power. I have the RF 04 HU and basically the CD's on the system just kick utter butt; I want my Sirius to do the same or anything else I plug into my aux port (MP3 player etc etc).

So the good news is - my aux port still works. I just dont think I actually "gained" anything.

So silly question here - If the PIE LD-1 isnt powered it will yield the same results as without it since technically its just a pass through whereas it either increases the input signal or doesnt right? I checked the dials and they are both on "Max" (assuming clockwise is the proper way to turn it) and I thought I found what you were referring to as the "Violet" cable on the HU and Maybe im wrong but I will post the wire I "tapped" for power.

Im hoping Im just a nimrod and tapped the wrong source for power because I got really excited to get this to work on my truck :-)

Any help is appreciated.

bestatchess · 06-05-2006, 11:31 PM

If you have a volt meter, check to see if you have power to the fuse holder for the PIE LD-1.

Sammy Sandbag · 06-06-2006, 03:04 PM

Just judging from the photos you provided and compairing it to the schematics, I'd say that is the correct harness. Do like bestatchess suggested and take a voltmeter to it. You might just have a poor connection. Remember that the key must be in and turned to ACC or On to provide power. Also check for a good ground and that your fuse isn't blown.