Has anyone had any luck getting USB in their 2011? Every time I come close I find some reason why "whatever" wont work in the 2011. Seems everything works for up to 2010 only like this:
Pretty lame there's no USB anyway seeing as the Armada has it....bastards!
Anywho, has anyone come across anything? If I have to ditch the sat port then so be it. Which sucks though as I just fix the whole 8 character issue that plagues just about every Nissan.
Has anyone had any luck getting USB in their 2011? Every time I come close I find some reason why "whatever" wont work in the 2011. Seems everything works for up to 2010 only like this:
Pretty lame there's no USB anyway seeing as the Armada has it....bastards!
Anywho, has anyone come across anything? If I have to ditch the sat port then so be it. Which sucks though as I just fix the whole 8 character issue that plagues just about every Nissan.
Sorry for the thread jack but how did you fix the 8 character issue?
__________________
GingerWhore™ BayWhore™
I love the nights I can't remember with friends I can't forget
2011 Blue Steel SL, 2WD, BT, CC Mods: Go Rhino Dominator II Nerf Bars, OEM Bug Deflector, 15% tint, Nav System Hack, OEM Ipod Interface, Armada Front Spoiler, Leveled, Firestone Air Bags, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau Cover, Bully Dog GT, 4,300K Hid Lows, Highs, & Fogs, LED Interior Lights (Thanx JB), CSF 3328 Radiator, Hayden 3800 Dual Electric Radiator Fans, Brake Performance Drilled & Slotted Rotors, Wagner ThermoQuiet Pads, Grounding Kit
Sorry for the thread jack but how did you fix the 8 character issue?
No problem! The issue comes from the radio booting before the SAT unit is fully booted. So if your radio is sitting there only showing 8 characters, if you turn off the radio then turn it back on (completely, not the power knob) then you'll get the full display. This is easily seen if you turn the vehicle on to accessory, wait for the sat to come up then turn your engine over (run). At that point it kills the power to the accessories but that flux in power is not long enough to completely de-energize the sat module so it remains on while the radio is completely reset.
So...to make a long story short...you need to make sure the power to the radio comes on AFTER the sat module boots. My radio turns on 3 seconds later then normal with this delay module:
I used the TDR-P. You can use any form of timer circuit. I just felt this was nice and handy, all packaged up and it worked great!
I took the power wire going to the radio and cut it. Then I split the switched hot side into 2 and fed that into the timer for the switched power as well as the 12 volt trigger (pin 1 and pin +12). Then attached the dead wire now going to the radio to the output (pin L) from the timer. Then of course, ground to ground.
My first experiment was to plug this straight into the radio fuse port. That way I could have something without cutting any wires and it could be plugged in and removed with ease. But alas...that damn radio fuse also powers the SAT unit
Last edited by ISOHaven; 11-28-2012 at 03:32 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to ISOHaven For This Useful Post:
Looks like they added more encoding types. Did anything ever come of it? I hate that the page says to use the CD Changer port but the manual says the SAT port. I emailed them to get the real story but haven't heard back.
No problem! The issue comes from the radio booting before the SAT unit is fully booted. So if your radio is sitting there only showing 8 characters, if you turn off the radio then turn it back on (completely, not the power knob) then you'll get the full display. This is easily seen if you turn the vehicle on to accessory, wait for the sat to come up then turn your engine over (run). At that point it kills the power to the accessories but that flux in power is not long enough to completely de-energize the sat module so it remains on while the radio is completely reset.
So...to make a long story short...you need to make sure the power to the radio comes on AFTER the sat module boots. My radio turns on 3 seconds later then normal with this delay module:
I used the TDR-P. You can use any form of timer circuit. I just felt this was nice and handy, all packaged up and it worked great!
I took the power wire going to the radio and cut it. Then I split the switched hot side into 2 and fed that into the timer for the switched power as well as the 12 volt trigger (pin 1 and pin +12). Then attached the dead wire now going to the radio to the output (pin L) from the timer. Then of course, ground to ground.
My first experiment was to plug this straight into the radio fuse port. That way I could have something without cutting any wires and it could be plugged in and removed with ease. But alas...that damn radio fuse also powers the SAT unit
Very nice ISO. I have been looking for a solution to this for a long time. Thank you.
__________________
GingerWhore™ BayWhore™
I love the nights I can't remember with friends I can't forget
2011 Blue Steel SL, 2WD, BT, CC Mods: Go Rhino Dominator II Nerf Bars, OEM Bug Deflector, 15% tint, Nav System Hack, OEM Ipod Interface, Armada Front Spoiler, Leveled, Firestone Air Bags, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau Cover, Bully Dog GT, 4,300K Hid Lows, Highs, & Fogs, LED Interior Lights (Thanx JB), CSF 3328 Radiator, Hayden 3800 Dual Electric Radiator Fans, Brake Performance Drilled & Slotted Rotors, Wagner ThermoQuiet Pads, Grounding Kit
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