Well...been so busy that I don't have time to turn the computer on.
No way that I could have gotten this finished in one week.....maybe if I worked 24/7....but then the quality of work diminishes.
Pictures will be coming....
Day 3
Continued eDead install on floor
Day 4
More eDead (finished....at least the floor and rear wall) and started laying out wires.
Day 5
Wired up the PAC-SWIX and installed the new radio bezel.
Continued laying out the wires.
Reinstalled the carpet and center console.
Day 6
Finshing laying the wires.
Removed the rear door panels, ran the wire through the grommets.
Reinstalled the rear wall, trim pieces, and seats.
Wrapped and ran the power wire under the hood along the existing wires beside the firewall.
Can you explain why you put B_Quiet in the sub's box? Won't that reduce it's output considerably? I have sceen it on the outside of the boxes but never on the inside.
Placing the sound deadening inside the sub box will not reduce output.....it actually reduces the standing wave distortion that a speaker creates. An ideal box for a speaker would have a curved back. A square box has areas, like in the corners, where the waves that a speaker creates works against the sub therefore reducing its output and creating distortion. The sound deadener absorbs these standing waves. It's not easy to explain.....
Update:
Got both rear doors matted on the inside (2 layers) and the outside (1 layer). I also closed up the open areas with sheetmetal that I pop riveted in. The largest open area also made an excellent place to mount my crossovers. However....if you have a large crossover some additional fabrication would be needed but I believe you could fit almost any crossover in this area.
I made some speaker brackets similar to what others have done on TT. Spray painted them to make them somewhat water resistent. Used T-nuts to fasten the speaker to the bracket.
I made sure to keep everything clean...I think I accomplished that.
Things left to do:
Front doors, install headunit, program PAC-SWIX, install battery terminals and fuse holder, make connections to capacitor/amps, and set gains.
Looks very nice TitanSE05!! If I ever had my truck taken apart for a week or two I probably wouldn't remember how to put it back together!!! Good luck and keep us posted!!
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KC XE 2x4 Constructed & Purchased in March of 2004, Preferred Package, Nissan OEM Fog Lamps, OR Wheels, DeeZee Tool Box, Nissan Sirius Box, Terk Mini antenna, Nissan Receiver Hitch+Houston Astross Hitch Cover, Interstate MT34R Battery, Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos P285/70TR17, GM Style CCLs, ~92K miles,GM Style Cab Clearance Lights, Drug Information in Lay Language.
what gauge wire did you run through the door there? and how hard was it to get it through?
12 gauge....wasn't very hard. The easiest way is to pop out both ends of the wire boot, compress it, push the wire through, and reinstall the boot. Also, I disconnected the wiring harness on the cabin side so I could pull the boot out a little further to make it easier to work with.
DAMNN.....THIS IS TAKING ME FOREVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'M GETTIN' AGGREVATED............ ALMOST FINISHED THOUGH.
UPDATE.....
Since the last update I have finished matting the front doors, installed deflex pads, ran the wiring through the grommets, and installed the tweeters in the factory locations.
I will be finished with the woofer mounting plates Monday night and have the front door panels reinstalled. At that time I can finally put the finishing touches on the system (no more fabrication ).
I still have to install my battery terminals, and fuse holder under the hood. Install my fans, connect the wires to the capactior and amps, install the HU, and program the PAC-SWIX.
Hope everyone had a less busy weekend than I had.....not enough time in the day.
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