When I was installing the Active Tuning ground upgrade kit, I was wondering about running 0 gage from battery + to alternator +, but maybe that would bypass OEM fusible link and not be a good idea?
yeah you can do that (as I woudl have done it too-but I ran out of wire)
if you used the stock active tuning 4ga, Id upgrade at least the altenator negative to 1/0 wire before you do it though
I dont think youd want the ground wire to be larger than the charging "+" line (off the alternator)
and make sure you ADD to the stock line, dont disconnect the stock "+"
and lastly if you are using 1/0 main power wire for you amps and whatnot
id highly recommend you do this mod with 1/0 wire
while although you are helping the OVERALL ground return, having the same resistance lever across all upgraded grounds just seems to make better "electrical " sense
all I know is that this system really works IMO, if you have ticking, alternator whining, slow ignition startup this really helps
exactly!! those instruction are perfect and extremely detailed
the only thing Id add is that for those with the offroad skid plate, connect the wire upt top first them drop the wire down in between the open space
you have to attach the alternator ground (and power if you so choose as the positive is right next to the negative) from up under the passenger side--behind the wheel--you dont need a jack,
just slide under the truck on your back, and a ratchet no extension needed
squeeze your arm into the area where the skidplate seperates from the chasis
and its a easy reach--took awhile to figure that one out
there may be other better ways, but thats the best I could figure out
I dunno about this, seems like they are grouding too many things. I have been told you want a single good ground to avoid ground loops. How many freakin thigns are they grounding! Does not seem correct to me.
So far I have replaced the Stock grounds from the battery with 1/0 Battery to chasis Chasis to motor.
I'd like to ground the alternator with 1/0 but I'm not clear from the instructions wth it is grounding to. (Is it grounding to the Chasis next to where the battery is grounding?) Woulden't this create a ground loop?
Wouldnet this be enough is using 1/0 ga?
1) Replace Factory Ground Wire (Battery to Chahsis)(Chasis to Motor)
2) Add Ground wire from Chasis to alternator (next to the where the battery grounds)
3) Add a new Transmitiion ground (not sure if the location they choose would create a ground loops or not?
Also I have the Knu Battery terminals, so coulden't I just ground the alternator to the battery since that ultimately grounds to the chasis right next to where it would be grounded anyways (avoids removing paint)?
Finaly, How do you upgrade the Power wire from the alternator to the battery? I was going to leave the stock wire in place, but add a second 1/0 ga to the battery? (Maybe add an inline fuse (140 amp?)) Where do you attach a second power wire from the alternator?
Thanks, I have about 8 feet of 1/0 ga left over that would be great to put to use.
P.S. Oh yea what size is the bolt that fits into Pre-threaded hole secondary ground hole in the alternator?
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
the alternator (according to the AT directions) grounds on that little chasis mount right where the stock battery line goes (which it then connects to the engine block)
the bolt size is M6 (lowes or homedepot have them readily available, Im pretty sure it was a 1", youll need another M6 bolt plus a NUT to connect to the chasis mount 1" or 2" doesnt really matter
its very clear on the provided pictures in the link bestatchess provided
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if you replace the power (+) for the alternator follow the same path and use a 250A fuse at least, depending on wire size of course (assuming 1/0--for 4ga wire use a smaller fuse)
you want the max current the wire cant take so theoretically, that much current can retun to the battery to keep it charged sufficiently
where to attach it is up to your ingenuity, other have done it various ways. easiest it to find a postive terminal with two or three post that you screw down terminal leads (nothe kind where you insert the wire into the hole)
but hey thats up to yo how you want to do it
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and if you are really worried about the paint issue, just use some liquid electrical tape to cover the terminals or some sort of grease like the directions state
and a dremel really makes removing the paint easy takes all of 1 minute
No what I ment was, why not just ground the alternator to the same bolt? Or back tot he Neg on teh battery terminal (if you have an aftermarket terminal) I mean it does not appear that it would do anything different than grounding to the same little metal tab that ground the battery terminals anyways? (seems like it creates a ground loop no matter how I am invision this)
Also how do you hook up a secondary Power wire to the Alternator? I'd like to run 1/0 from alternator power to battery terminal.
Just replacing the factory ground wire from battery to chasis from chasis to engine, make my truck idle quieter. But I would like to upgrade the Alternators ground also, I just don't see the point in removing paint to simply ground it right next to where the battery ground? Why not use the same hole or jsut ground it to the battery terminal since it is inevitably grounding to the same location anyways?
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PRG Upper Arms and SAWs DR rears 4" lift, Dunder Grill, Extensive Stereo System, HID Club, AEM, Stillen Exhaust, Wet Okoles. Some Titan Pictures (Work in Progress)
I did the grounding kit, but I found some Mil-Spec M22759/46-2 aircraft wire. I followed the instructions on the Active Tuning website. I can only say I THINK the truck shifts better. I don't feel or see any improvement with any of the electrical equipment, such as the radio, windows etc. Right now, I'm chalking it up to the power of suggestion, based on members reaction to their own situations. I will give it more time, but I'm not getting my hopes up.
__________________ Joe
God Bless the USA!
2005 LE KC 4x2
A15/Steel, W07, N94, L92.
Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar
******* Industries: SS Door Sill Trim, Chrome Tailgate Trim
LED tail/brake lights
OEM Bug Deflector & Step Rails
Armada Front Air Dam
Born 4/2005
Brought home 7/7/2005
I have a question about using 0 gage wire for the alternator + to battery + connection. I think the factory connection includes a fusible link. The alternator is rated at something like 130 amps (right?). Now if you put in a 0 gage wire with no fuse, or even use a 250 amp fuse, is there a potential for damaging the alternator by attempting to draw more than 130 amps (in the factory arrangement, the fusible link would melt if that happened)? And yes, I know about V=IR, and that by reducing resistance by using bigger wire you should reduce the load on the alternator somewhat. My concern is whether using bigger wire & fuse would allow you to damage the alternator by exceeding its rating, or if it just makes all the power it can up to the rated limit, w/o damage.
Has this fixed anyones engine whine? I need to set my amp gains at 17.3v for proper setup, but if I go above 16 I introduce engine noise to the system.
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