Speaker Adapters

ecbmxer · 09-11-2005, 12:38 PM

Does anybody know the exact dimensions for 6.5" speaker adapters for front and rear or a kingcab Titan? Like what are the dimensions for the stock speaker screw holes? Is the front just a standard 6x9 or something else? And do I just need a spacer for the rear or will the screw holes be different also (even though the stock is 6.5")? If anybody has actual templates they can upload that I could print out, that would be awesome. I wanted to get working on something for my install but don't want to remove everything until I have money for deadening and a HU. I want to build these and my amp rack at the same time.

Thanks!

Nestor · 09-11-2005, 03:00 PM

Can't really give you dimensions, but for the front, I modified the molded spacer from the oem speakers. There is a partial shroud inside the spacer. I sliced off this piece, then cut a piece of 3/4" mdf to fit inside. From there, I cut a hole in the mdf for my speaker and popped it in.

Sammy Sandbag · 09-11-2005, 05:15 PM

Sorry I didn't keep any measurments from my install, but here's what I did. I removed the OEM plastic 6x9 mounts and traced the door mounting surface onto some cardboard. I then transfered this template to the MDF. I cut it out and test fitted it. I had to remove a little MDF from the forward bottom corner so that the door panel would install, as the MDF is obviously thicker than the plastic mount. The rear mounts were much easier, just simple MDF rings with three tabs to mount to the factory holes. I used some allen head bolts with flat washers and nylon lock nuts to secure these to the doors. The speakers were attached to the MDF using the speaker manufacturer's mounting system. These pictures might help:

Justintoxicated · 09-11-2005, 09:38 PM

I just put in my rears today my bro helped me cut some adapters for the rear. You really should use spacers for the rear also. I jsut got pics but will post them if you want when I get around to uploading them.

Also I put the crossovers for the DLS Coaxils inside the door. I wrapped them in ensulite foam and weged them in the bottom of the door. I didn't see a need to preoperly mount them cause the way the inside of the door holds them is very snug.

Also I used the factory wires for the rear, just soldered onto the existing ones. I bought 50 feet of wire from Knukonceptz but my order is taking like 2 weeks and I heard it is a ***** to fish wire through the rear doors so I said screw it.

Get some foam weatherstripping tape from Lowes to go behind the adapter to make a good seal. The Sheetmetal is not perfectly flat.

Unfortunately the best way to make adapters is to take the door panel off ands use the stock plastic as a template, then trim a little mroe off so it clears the door panel. uses Sammy's pics to guestimate how much you need to trim off. Worked for me.

I drilled out the factory holes 1 size larger to accomidate the new bolts.

ecbmxer · 09-12-2005, 06:52 AM

Wow Sammy those adapters look great! Well, I'll just have to wait it out until I can actually take stuff apart when I have money for Fatmat and a HU. It'll be another good project for my Rotozip. I was planning on running all new wire to the doors but I may have to look at the factory before deciding. I'm sure the rears would be fine on the factory like you did justin. Mine are only 50W running off HU power so there's probably no reason to upgrade the wiring. I'll maybe just run new front wire since I'm gonna need to go back to the amp anyway. Those who pulled up the carpet and deadened in the rear area, how hard was it to pull up and reinstall? And how about the stuff on the rear wall, did you have to totally remove the rear seats?

Oh, and when running power wires and RCA's, is it possible just to run them on the sides without taking out the console or front seats or anything. Like just pull up the plastic trim by the door areas all the way back. This is what I was able to do in my Cavalier, but I wasn't sure if it would work for the Titan.

Thanks!

Sammy Sandbag · 09-12-2005, 08:48 AM

I have a CC, so I'm not sure how much my install will apply to yours but... Removing the carpet itself is not all that difficult, just time consuming. You have remove everything from the interior that's bolted to the floor. As for running the wires here's how I did mine; I ran the speaker wires (8) up the driver's side channel, the power wire (0ga) down the passenger side channel, and the RCA's/bass adjust wire down the middle along the trans hump. I was trying to keep things seperated to avoid noise. If you pull up the floor finishers, the flat grey trim pieces along the door edges, you'll find these white plastic channels that the OEM wires are run through. The tops of these pop off and you can run your wiring inside them.

Here you can see the speaker wires in this channel with the cover removed:

I didn't get any pictures of the 0ga power wire, but it's the same concept. In this picture you can see the speaker wire continued in the upper portion of the photo and the RCA cables run along the edge of the transmission hump. I secured it with HVAC tape and completely covered it before reinstalling the carpet:

ecbmxer · 09-12-2005, 09:48 AM

Holy crap, thats soo cool that there are little channels that the stock wires run through. That will make it really nice. I'm gonna run the power wire on the passenger side and the RCA's on the driver's w/ remote turn on. I don't plan on removing the front seats or pulling the whole carpet up. Just the sides and the rear floor area. I'm not deadening the whole floor. I am only going to have 1 amp on the rear wall, so I won't have that many connections, just a power wire and 4 ch RCA's w/ remote turn on. And I was going to run new wires for my front comps up to the HU until I get my amp. Then I will extend the wires and run them along with the RCA's.

Is there a nice place to have the wires enter the channels up under the dash area. Maybe in the kick panel trim pieces? When doing your amp install on the rear wall, is it required to remove the seats? I know you have a crew and I have a king, but to deaden most of the wall, can't you just flip the seats down and unscrew everything and pull down the material covering the sheetmetal? I am also planning on installing a small fan made by DLS with my amp since the seat on the KC will be so close. Whats cool about the DLS A5 amp is that they have a fan out connection that will run the fan according to how hot the amp is. I hope I can position it to point out the side of the seat.

Sammy Sandbag · 09-12-2005, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecbmxer

Is there a nice place to have the wires enter the channels up under the dash area. Maybe in the kick panel trim pieces? When doing your amp install on the rear wall, is it required to remove the seats? I know you have a crew and I have a king, but to deaden most of the wall, can't you just flip the seats down and unscrew everything and pull down the material covering the sheetmetal?

Yes, the wires come out right where the kick panel is, so everything is tucked up and hidden nicely. I'd say it's pretty much required to remove the rear seats. You won't be able to get much mat down since the carpet can't be pulled up without removing the seats. Also, you won't have very much room to work with back there with the seats in.

Justintoxicated · 09-12-2005, 12:38 PM

Definately remove the rear seats

I like your ideas, I plan to put my amps under the seat so some of my speaker wire HAS to be next to the power wires. Are you sure the A5 will fit on the backwall? you need a little more than 3 inches in depth?

ecbmxer · 09-12-2005, 01:51 PM

The amp is 2.87" thick so I am almost positive it will fit. I am going to make a template amp out of cardboard this weekend to test fit it.

Nestor · 09-12-2005, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecbmxer

The amp is 2.87" thick so I am almost positive it will fit. I am going to make a template amp out of cardboard this weekend to test fit it.

Make sure it has enough room for heat dissipation. some amps are pretty fussy and can shut down if they get too hot.

Papa_D · 09-12-2005, 03:11 PM

That installation is a sight to behold Sammy, good job.

ecbmxer · 09-13-2005, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nestor

Make sure it has enough room for heat dissipation. some amps are pretty fussy and can shut down if they get too hot.

I'm going to try and get as much as I can. I am going to install a fan to pull some of the heat out also. DLS makes 2 fans, a 4 cm and an 8cm (!). Hehe, I don't think there is any way I would fit a friggin 8cm fan behind that seat unless I just cut a hole in the seatback LOL. I think 1 or 2 4 cm fans right at the crack on the driver's side should do the trick.

Justintoxicated · 09-13-2005, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecbmxer

I'm going to try and get as much as I can. I am going to install a fan to pull some of the heat out also. DLS makes 2 fans, a 4 cm and an 8cm (!). Hehe, I don't think there is any way I would fit a friggin 8cm fan behind that seat unless I just cut a hole in the seatback LOL. I think 1 or 2 4 cm fans right at the crack on the driver's side should do the trick.

don't forget to add another 1/2 inch for the Piece of MDF to mount it too, Unless you plan to drill into the rear wall like me heh. So you need about 3.8-4 inches of clearance.

Sammy Sandbag · 09-13-2005, 03:41 PM

If things get real tight you could use something like 1/4" plywood.