I need a cap

[grunge311]

I think I need a cap and a new battery. I have been monitoring my voltage and it is dropping below 12v constantly and my amp does not like that. I thru a 1 farad cap in there and that has taken alot of the strain off, but still doesn't fix the problem (battery might) Anyway in my last car I had an alumapro 5 farad cap and it worked awesome. I will probably get another one but I see this one by pyle ($hitty company) that is a 6farad and an inch or two smaller and half the price. Do you think its worth it? With normal caps I havent noticed a diff between brands but these hybrid carbon ones I dont know to much about. What do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MakeTrack=true

[lizardking]

If you buy a cap then get a Alumapro or Stinger Hybrid..

[grunge311]

why?

I mean I want to know what the difference is between a cheap noname and the others, I mean its a capacitor, its not like there are any parts or anything?

Do you think there is a diff between a rockford 1farad cap and a boss or pyramid 1 farad cap?

I have used the noname regular caps and couldn't tell the diff between the more expensive rockfords...

I am not debating a diff I am just interested in hearing others experience and opinions

Do you think the nonames exagerate the farad capacity of there caps? Like that pyle above stating its 6 farad? do you think they are lying and its really like 2 farad?

[lizardking]

The difference is the ESR rating. You need a cap with a low ESR rating to be effective, the lower the better... Richard Clark "The Godfather" of car audio has proven this time and time again. Most caps can't even begin to work because the ESR rating. Alumapro makes one the best there is...at least its what the experts say...

[bestatchess]

Stop arguing about caps and go find us a nice 200 amp alternator!

[lizardking]

If you guys need an alternator then get it from Dominick...He's the best out there... He will build one for anyone that will direct bolt up... Dominick Iraggi

[bestatchess]

Originally Posted by lizardking

If you guys need an alternator then get it from Dominick...He's the best out there... He will build one for anyone that will direct bolt up... Dominick Iraggi

Where would I find him? I found some guy selling them on Ebay and a forum, but I can't find his email.

I emailed another guy at www.excessiveamperage.com that seems to get some good reviews.

[grunge311]

The high power alternator doesnt do you any good if the engine is not running. Which is where my problem is right now.

[bestatchess]

Originally Posted by grunge311

The high power alternator doesnt do you any good if the engine is not running. Which is where my problem is right now.

Is this just for test purposes for a couple of minutes or what? I would think a high powered stereo would drain the battery pretty fast with the engine off.

[lizardking]

His email is dominick@tds.net He is very well known and considered the best by the audio guys...

[grunge311]

Originally Posted by bestatchess

Is this just for test purposes for a couple of minutes or what? I would think a high powered stereo would drain the battery pretty fast with the engine off.

My amp does not turn on unless the voltage is at 12.5v or greater. So with the ACC on my voltage varies from 12.5 to 11.8 so My amp does not come on at all. In the morning when I first start the car it can take (now that cold weather is here) over a minute for everything to reach the 12.5v needed for my amp to turn on. The capacitor does not fix this problem at all, which it shouldn't, but it does help the fix the problem over short trips into the gas station etc.

I was thinking about trying an optima yellow top but the place I would purchase it from says no return so I don't want to try it unless I am sure that is the problem.

For an amp all I am running is a USAmps 5600x which is 75wx4 + 200wx1 @4ohm 12.5v. The only other things I have added to the electrical system is my HU (flip out dvd), rear view camera (not on), power inverter (not on) and HID headlights (usually on).

I don't mind if the battery drains after 10 minutes of listening to stereo w/o engine, as long as I can listen to stereo w/engine.

[lizardking]

If you plan on listening to the stereo with the engine not running then look into getting a deep cycle battery such as the Optima or Stinger or Odyssey. High power stereos are not designed to listen to with engine not running unless your running several batteries.

[bestatchess]

Originally Posted by grunge311

My amp does not turn on unless the voltage is at 12.5v or greater. So with the ACC on my voltage varies from 12.5 to 11.8 so My amp does not come on at all. In the morning when I first start the car it can take (now that cold weather is here) over a minute for everything to reach the 12.5v needed for my amp to turn on. The capacitor does not fix this problem at all, which it shouldn't, but it does help the fix the problem over short trips into the gas station etc.

I was thinking about trying an optima yellow top but the place I would purchase it from says no return so I don't want to try it unless I am sure that is the problem.

For an amp all I am running is a USAmps 5600x which is 75wx4 + 200wx1 @4ohm 12.5v. The only other things I have added to the electrical system is my HU (flip out dvd), rear view camera (not on), power inverter (not on) and HID headlights (usually on).

I don't mind if the battery drains after 10 minutes of listening to stereo w/o engine, as long as I can listen to stereo w/engine.

Did you do the 0 gage battery - chassis - block ground upgrade? What gage wire to your amps? If all of that is adequate, I would start with the battery. (hopefully your alternator & voltage regulator is o.k.) I have an Optima blue top with two 400 watt amps and I get good voltage immediately. I have a 1 farad cap but I don't notice any difference with or without the cap.

I think a few people were having problems with the OEM battery.

[grunge311]

Originally Posted by bestatchess

Did you do the 0 gage battery - chassis - block ground upgrade? What gage wire to your amps? If all of that is adequate, I would start with the battery. (hopefully your alternator & voltage regulator is o.k.) I have an Optima blue top with two 400 watt amps and I get good voltage immediately. I have a 1 farad cap but I don't notice any difference with or without the cap.

I think a few people were having problems with the OEM battery.

I did the 0 guage ground thing for a little bit, then I took that off to do the active tuning kit, only I used 0 gauge for that. I ran 4 gauge to the amp, where it is split via distro block into 3 8gauge wires, 2 going to the amp (this amp requires 2+ and 2- connections, one for 4ch one for sub) and one going to my power inverter. My gound wire is the same, 8gauge into distro block into 4 gauge to ground.

I am thinking of going with an optima, but I had my battery and alternator checked out and they passed, and the sales guy said if I bought it and it didn't fix my problem I could not return it. If I was %100 sure it would fix the problem then I wouldn't hesitate to buy one, but since I am not sure I haven't gotten one yet.

I should mention that when I hook my truck up to a charger set to 200amp start, my stereo comes on instantly, then the instant I turn the charger off, the stereo dies.

[smoketitan]

alternator update

read up on that irragi guy if I were you

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ult...c;f=5;t=009993

read the last few pages of that thread WHOA

as far as excessive amperage they dont have a build yet for the hitachi style that we need

I contacted Ohio generator, and they make one, but they expected it to be COSTLY--they wont quote me till monday

mine alternator is starting to dip below 14.3V, but of course the my max draw is over 300A class a/b not the best idea for a 130A stocker

so ill be getting a 250-300A no matter the cost as im tired of band aid-ing the noise and voltage isues


but to be truthful even when I had a single 5 channel @ max 100A draw I got some noise issues so who knows

maybe its just my personal alternator