just need some suggestions

jree · 11-14-2005, 08:43 AM

I just hooked up my system in my CC it sounds great. I have a 12" JL audio w3-v2 d4 being pushed by a JL 500/1. My only thing is that now my lights dim but I don't think that my rpms are dropping. Do you guys think that a 1 farad cap would do the trick for my lights? A new altenator isn't really in my price range right now so the cheapest solutions would be the best ones

bestatchess · 11-14-2005, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jree

I just hooked up my system in my CC it sounds great. I have a 12" JL audio w3-v2 d4 being pushed by a JL 500/1. My only thing is that now my lights dim but I don't think that my rpms are dropping. Do you guys think that a 1 farad cap would do the trick for my lights? A new altenator isn't really in my price range right now so the cheapest solutions would be the best ones

If you have not done so already, upgrading the battery/chassis/block ground wire to 0 gage might help.

jree · 11-14-2005, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bestatchess

If you have not done so already, upgrading the battery/chassis/block ground wire to 0 gage might help.

I just did a search on this upgrade. Do I have to run 0 gauge to do this and is it necessary to do the altenator? Thanks for your help btw

K-MU · 11-14-2005, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bestatchess

If you have not done so already, upgrading the battery/chassis/block ground wire to 0 gage might help.

I agree, this is the best solution to your problem right now...

bestatchess · 11-14-2005, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jree

I just did a search on this upgrade. Do I have to run 0 gauge to do this and is it necessary to do the altenator? Thanks for your help btw

I ran 0 gage from the battery to the chassis to the block (per lizard king's post) and did the www.activetuning.com ground wire kit which has an additional wire for the alternator which attaches in addition to the factory ground wire to the alternator.

http://www.activetuning.com/products...04GRNDKT-TNAR/

Installation instructions:

http://www.activetuning.com/products...stallation.php

*TitanFan59* · 11-14-2005, 01:36 PM

A switch to Yellow Top Optima could be in order as well should it only improve marginally.

jree · 11-14-2005, 07:32 PM

Thanks for all the help guys. I was plannin on gettting new battery but now I think that I am going to do the grounding kit as well. When I did my search, a couple people said that they were running a higher wattage system with no dimming and suggested that the ground for the amp might not be that good. Guess it couldn't hurt to try

JLTD · 11-15-2005, 07:57 AM

You should not need to replace the battery at this early stage of it's life. The system should be powered by the alternator not the battery anyway.
Any charging system unless there is a major problem with it should be compatible with a 500/1.
Your problem is most-likely the amp is driven into high levels of clipping. Clipping dramatically increases the average power over time produce by the amp. Increases in average power means an increase in average current. A 500/1 driven into severe clipping can produce average power like a 1000/1. Set the amplifier sensitivity as outlined in Appendix B of the owners manual for starters. If you're using the EQ and it's boosted by 6dB or more, consider more woofers. It's better to get "loud" with dispalcement over excessive "gain" and/or EQ.
If your charging system can't keep up with the system as it is now, adding a capacitor or a new battery will not change that. All power to move a speaker comes from the alternator, the amp simply converts it's output to something useful to do the work.

Nestor · 11-15-2005, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLTD

You should not need to replace the battery at this early stage of it's life. The system should be powered by the alternator not the battery anyway.
Any charging system unless there is a major problem with it should be compatible with a 500/1.
Your problem is most-likely the amp is driven into high levels of clipping. Clipping dramatically increases the average power over time produce by the amp. Increases in average power means an increase in average current. A 500/1 driven into severe clipping can produce average power like a 1000/1. Set the amplifier sensitivity as outlined in Appendix B of the owners manual for starters. If you're using the EQ and it's boosted by 6dB or more, consider more woofers. It's better to get "loud" with dispalcement over excessive "gain" and/or EQ.
If your charging system can't keep up with the system as it is now, adding a capacitor or a new battery will not change that. All power to move a speaker comes from the alternator, the amp simply converts it's output to something useful to do the work.

Ditto!

smoketitan · 11-15-2005, 11:11 PM

lol you guys havent done a search yet on the trusty titan charging system yet have you

Ill check back in a few months to see how long your stock battery last with ANY sort of aftermarket stereo

I dont care if its 400w or 1000w lol, the titan alternator is beyond subpar

but youll see

Blue_Water_Rush · 11-16-2005, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smoketitan

lol you guys havent done a search yet on the trusty titan charging system yet have you

Ill check back in a few months to see how long your stock battery last with ANY sort of aftermarket stereo

I dont care if its 400w or 1000w lol, the titan alternator is beyond subpar

but youll see

Does he know something we don't? I'm goin' searchin' (as if I haven't stopped already)lol

jree · 11-16-2005, 11:06 PM

Can I get a pic on where the plug in the firewall that the amp power wire can pass through? I read somewhere that its behind the brake booster

pi3yeargrad · 11-16-2005, 11:27 PM

just drill a hole on the passenger side...REAL QUICK...then buy one of those wire bungs or seal with silicon

Blue_Water_Rush · 11-17-2005, 06:40 AM

Here's the spot. The hole is located just above where the hood release cable passes through. Remove the plug, then you will need to push a coat hanger or stiff wire through the hole first because its too hard to reach around the brake booster to reach the wire. Push enough of the hanger through so you can reach it from the engine bay, then drill out the center of the plug to the diameter of the power wire, feed the wire through the plug allowing enough slack on the engine side to reach the battery, then tape the end of the wire to the coat hanger. From the engine side, pull all the slack through til the plug bottoms out against the hole. Re-insert the plug, then run the wire along the chosen course in the engine bay (you can push or pull the wire through the plug accordingly to get the right length to the battery, allow a little extra for mounting the fuse link). Then you can run the wire inside the cab to the amp.