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Old 02-01-2006, 05:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dynamat questions

Got a question for you audio people. I know traditional dynamat it a metal sheet of rubber dampening. But upon doing research i noticed that there are spray sound deadeners, that are tons cheaper, and seems like they deaden better and get into hard to reach places better. Anyone have experience with them, if so do they work just as well, or worse or better? seems like a bargain at 10.00 a bottle, i could do the whole trunk area (sentra se-r) for like 20 bucks.
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Old 02-02-2006, 07:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

www.edesignaudio.com

Check them out they call it edead and is availible in spray on or traditional formats.

I personally have not installed it, but have heard quite a few sub boxes lined with it and played a friends leftovers one day. It seems like good stuff.
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Old 02-02-2006, 12:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

Stay away from rubberized asphalt based dampening sheets. Under higher temps. it will melt off the foil, and you'll have a nice mess on your hands, as well as a defeated sound deadening effort. I researched this stuff for quite a while before deciding what to get. Now I know the price on the e-dead, b-quiet, fatmat etc. is pretty reasonable, but it makes better sense to pay a little more and get something that will stay on. After narrowing it down to 2 choices, price was the final factor in my decision. Dynamat extreme and Second Skin Audio's Damplifier are both butyl rubber based sheets with aluminum constraining layers, but the damplifier is much more reasonably priced, but still not cheap compared to asphalt. I just received my shipment- 200 sq. ft. of damplifier regular. /80 lbs./4 boxes/25 sheets each box/ 12.5" x 24"/ rubber layer 65 mil/ aluminum layer 3 mil/ $374.00 + $70.00 shipping
I decided on 2 layers everywhere except 3 layers on doors & 1 layer on ceiling. Total 130 mil on double layers, 195 mil in doors.

Alternatively, I considered 1 layer of damplifier pro, which is 90 mil, and then either spectrum or sludge on top, but I really want to stay away from messy liquids, even though this stuff is really good, the owner told me that multiple layers of the regular damplifier is the way to go, to keep things neat, and get an overall killer sound and vibration deadening effect. He assured me I would be amazed at the results.

Check it out here

Also, here's a good comparison article
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Old 02-02-2006, 12:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

Sounds like your spare time will be occupied for awhile.
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Old 02-02-2006, 12:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

yeah that sounds like a project, so what your saying is that liquid is good. I found this compount thats like really really think paint, kinda like bondo without the hardener, it goes on real thick, and it says its for deadening. For now i went to my shop that i used to work at (pool enclosure) and picked up sum peel n seal its about 50 mil and it was free. got about 200 square feet of it. just installed it today and when my trunk is closed you cant even hear that i have bass, you just see the spoiler rattling. It definately made a difference. About the spoiler is there anyway to get that to stop rattling? and no im not taking it off.
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Old 02-03-2006, 09:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue_Water_Rush
Stay away from rubberized asphalt based dampening sheets. Under higher temps. it will melt off the foil, and you'll have a nice mess on your hands, as well as a defeated sound deadening effort. I researched this stuff for quite a while before deciding what to get. Now I know the price on the e-dead, b-quiet, fatmat etc. is pretty reasonable, but it makes better sense to pay a little more and get something that will stay on. After narrowing it down to 2 choices, price was the final factor in my decision. Dynamat extreme and Second Skin Audio's Damplifier are both butyl rubber based sheets with aluminum constraining layers, but the damplifier is much more reasonably priced, but still not cheap compared to asphalt. I just received my shipment- 200 sq. ft. of damplifier regular. /80 lbs./4 boxes/25 sheets each box/ 12.5" x 24"/ rubber layer 65 mil/ aluminum layer 3 mil/ $374.00 + $70.00 shipping
I decided on 2 layers everywhere except 3 layers on doors & 1 layer on ceiling. Total 130 mil on double layers, 195 mil in doors.

Alternatively, I considered 1 layer of damplifier pro, which is 90 mil, and then either spectrum or sludge on top, but I really want to stay away from messy liquids, even though this stuff is really good, the owner told me that multiple layers of the regular damplifier is the way to go, to keep things neat, and get an overall killer sound and vibration deadening effect. He assured me I would be amazed at the results.

Check it out here

Also, here's a good comparison article
Great advice...something to add
eDesign has a buytl based mat now to replace the older version. Great price too.....way cheaper than Dynamat Extreme or the damplifier pro. Also 20% code available
eDead v1SE2
http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?...pid=25&cur=USD

Last edited by titanse05; 02-06-2006 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 02-03-2006, 11:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

rammatt is a good brand too. second skin was already mentioned and good as well.

Blue_Water_Rush 200 sq ft. ...man that's a lot but it will have great results. I have about 80 sq ft in mine. I'll do a few more layers in the back firewall. maybe another in the doors when I got time
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Old 02-03-2006, 05:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

I got 200 SF in mine........
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Old 02-03-2006, 05:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

I may have the shop install some deading when the system gets installed this week
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Old 02-03-2006, 07:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

I used this stuff a many times. It makes the surface it's applied to heavier, so it's harder to move around. And it absorbs energy, meaning, basically, that when it is forced to move and flex around, it has a lot of internal friction, so it turns acoustic energy into heat.

All of these combine to kill resonance and vibration on the panel its applied to. It's still my favorite to use.
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcantu
Blue_Water_Rush 200 sq ft. ...man that's a lot but it will have great results. I have about 80 sq ft in mine. I'll do a few more layers in the back firewall. maybe another in the doors when I got time
Yeah, its a lot, but will be worth it for sure. I want this system to sound like I'm in a studio (or at least close to it). I'm not so interested in having a super high powered system, just efficiency, decent power, and clean sound. That way when I crank it up, the fidelity remains.

I do dread this endeavor though, its really a lot of work. But I'm going to do it in stages:

1. Do floor, firewall, back wall, then run rca interconnects, power/ground wires, speaker wire, remote amp-on wire, Sirius Link & Antenna wire (no hookups yet, just coiled and ready at each location), install MDF board to floor under front seat with carpet padding between board & dampened floor, replace carpet, mount amp, sirius tuner & power dist. block to mounting board, terminate wires at block, amp & ground, replace console, seats, sub box. (still listening to RF w/ aftermarket subs)


2. Do ceiling, pillars, run sirius antenna wire thru roof & PAC swix LED in overhead console. Replace head liner, overhead console & pillar trims. (still listening to RF w/ aftermarket subs)


3. One door at a time. By the time I reach the rear doors, its probably time to stop listening, since the completion of each door will also mean a new speaker & wire in each door. Goodbye Rockford FALSEgate!! Disconnect fuse at battery. Remove 8 ga. fuse holder, and install 4 ga. AGU fuse holder and wire up. (no fuse yet)


4. Remove RF HU, dash tweets, disconnect plug from RF amp, install new dash tweets, wire crossovers and mount to kick panels w/ Industrial velcro, hookup pre-soldered harnesses & install new Kenwood Excelon, connect RCAs to pre-outs, connect aux adapter cable and run mini-cable up through dash well for portable dvd, connect Sirius link cable, wire up PAC swix to factory plug and +12v switched lead & ground, finish amp wiring.


5. Install fuse at battery, check that all wires are hooked up & secure, re-connect battery neg. and power up, set levels & hopefully enjoy my new mobile listening environment.


6. Who wants to buy my RF system?????? Actually I should keep it in case I sell the truck and want to keep my equipment (all except for the custom sub box I built, which fits only the Titan). I can just retro-wire everything.

Why am I thinking that far ahead? I hate when I do that! Dolt!
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'05 LE Deep Water Blue/ 4x4/ Off Road/ Big Tow/ Spray In Liner/ Utilitrac

COSMETIC: Undercover Lid/SS Door Accents & Fuel Door/Chrome Tailgate Trim/Dunder Web Grill/Silverstar Headlamps/Volant LED Tail Lights/LED 3rd Brake Light/LED all Int & Ext Lights/ LED Multicolor Interior Accent Lighting/Silblade Wipers/Painted Engine Cover
ENGINE: K&N 77 CAI/Banks Exhaust/AT Grounding Kit/TB Coolant Shutoff/Eco 2 Fuel Vapor Enhancer/Uprev Osiris Tuner & Cipher Software
A/V: Kenwood XXV-01D/JL Audio Amps & 10W7 Sub/MB Quart Spkrs./Sirius Tuner/KK Wiring/SSA Full Sound Deadening/Kuda PDA Base/Laptop GPS with Ram Mount/Tablet DVD with Ram Mount
SUSPENSION: 6" PC Lift/Radflo Coils/3" Deavers/1" Blocks/Bilsteins/PRG Traction Bars/Helo Wheels/PC X Terrain 35x12.50

Last edited by Blue_Water_Rush; 02-03-2006 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 02-06-2006, 02:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

liquid sound deadeners are a pain in the *** to work on, especially on the roof

I personally like hushmat. Stuffs sticks great, and its pretty damn flexible vs. dynamat extreme. I've tried dynamat extreme, hushmat, raamat and even peel and seal...and so far the hushmat gets my vote

I found these pics from a local houston forum. The dude "nisaznmonk" posted them and these were his results after edead V1 SE was applied on a car.





Hopefully the new stuff works better
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Old 02-06-2006, 05:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Dynamat questions

Funny thing is, that the V1 SE was never recommended for roof/trunk applications. But some people ignore instructions......
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