New Battery Installation

[SmokeSE]

After 2 factory replacements from the stealer, I decided that enough was enough. All of the factory batteries leaked, and eventually stopped accepting a charge. The 1st one was good for a year, and the last two lasted about 6 months. Each time the dealer would not replace my terminals or battery tray. I ended up cleaning everything with baking soda and a wire brush. There was significant paint damage from the leaking acid. After looking at previous threads and talking with a few people, I decided to go with an Optima battery. I looked for this battery at a bunch of auto parts stores and could not find it. Eventualy I ended up buying if from Batteries Plus for $140. I used 1/0 cable for the GRD and +12v connections to replace the stock cables. I dont really like the fuseable link setup but unless i think up a fuse box of some sort, i'm going to leave it the way it is. Let me know what you guys think.

[PTitan]

Nice setup. I like the Optima battery and will probably put one in my truck when the OEM battery gives out.

[TitanBlue]

Looks Cool, good setup with cables tied nicely.

Why so much problems with battery failure, I see you have 4x2 as I do. Do you go on extremely rough terrain anywhere?

Consider Bedliner Spraycan Paint to rehab that battery shelf after totally removing and cleaning it. Bedliner is very chemical resistant compared to conventinal paints. We have a trailer at work with unusual chemical exposure, Paint last 2 weeks, Bedliner last a year!

Definetly nice install job there.

[konigfritz]

Sounds like you might have a faulty ground somewhere, that can cook batteries and make them leak.

I love optimas they are awsome.

[SmokeSE]

Originally Posted by TitanBlue

Looks Cool, good setup with cables tied nicely.

Why so much problems with battery failure, I see you have 4x2 as I do. Do you go on extremely rough terrain anywhere?

Consider Bedliner Spraycan Paint to rehab that battery shelf after totally removing and cleaning it. Bedliner is very chemical resistant compared to conventinal paints. We have a trailer at work with unusual chemical exposure, Paint last 2 weeks, Bedliner last a year!

Definetly nice install job there.

I have an audio system with a amp installed, and I also drive alot 81k+ miles so far. I've been told that the extra drain from the amp causes the leak but at this point everyone is telling me something different. Hopefully with this sealed battery and the extra c amps I should be good now.

[bestatchess]

Here is my theory:

With the extra draw from the high powered stereo and the OEM alternator, the OEM alternator does not handle the load at idle, causing the battery to be discharged at idle. (I know that this part is a fact as I have verified this with a Fluke clamp meter). When you get up to speed (see OEM alternator specs below), the alternator recharges the battery, causing the unsealed battery to vent hydrogen gas and sulfuric acid vapors. Also, a discharged lead acid battery does not charge at 100% efficiency. My understanding is that the alternator needs to supply about 120% of the energy that is discharged (what you are trying to put back into the battery) thus, putting further load on the alternator.

Depending on stereo system requirements and driving habits, potential solutions include: a true sealed battery and/or an HO alternator (IMHO, an HO alternator that produced 200 amps at idle is the real solution).

Here is what I believe to be the OEM alternator specs:

Hitachi
LR1130-701
12v-130A nominal rating
Negatvive ground polarity
1,200 RPM Minimun revolution under no load (when 13.5 volts is applied)

Hot output current (when 13.5 voltage is applied)

More than 78A/1,800 rpm
More than 108A/2,500 rpm
More than 130A/5,000 rpm

14.1-14.7V @ 25C regulated output voltage

6mm (0.24 in) minimum length of brush

1.0-3.432 N (0.102-0.3501 kg. 0.22-0.7715 lbs) brush spring pressure

26mm (1.02 in) Slip Ring outer diameter

2.1 ohms Rotor (field coil) resistance


In my case, running two 400 watt amps, cranked up, but not maxed, at idle, my clamp meter indicated that the OEM alternator was at a 20 amp deficit at idle (which is suppled by the battery).

[konigfritz]

Thanks best! That is good to know. Maybe when i upgrade the stereo I will put in an optima.

[SmokeSE]

Originally Posted by bestatchess

Here is my theory:

With the extra draw from the high powered stereo and the OEM alternator, the OEM alternator does not handle the load at idle, causing the battery to be discharged at idle. (I know that this part is a fact as I have verified this with a Fluke clamp meter). When you get up to speed (see OEM alternator specs below), the alternator recharges the battery, causing the unsealed battery to vent hydrogen gas and sulfuric acid vapors. Also, a discharged lead acid battery does not charge at 100% efficiency. My understanding is that the alternator needs to supply about 120% of the energy that is discharged (what you are trying to put back into the battery) thus, putting further load on the alternator.

Depending on stereo system requirements and driving habits, potential solutions include: a true sealed battery and/or an HO alternator (IMHO, an HO alternator that produced 200 amps at idle is the real solution).

Here is what I believe to be the OEM alternator specs:

Hitachi
LR1130-701
12v-130A nominal rating
Negatvive ground polarity
1,200 RPM Minimun revolution under no load (when 13.5 volts is applied)

Hot output current (when 13.5 voltage is applied)

More than 78A/1,800 rpm
More than 108A/2,500 rpm
More than 130A/5,000 rpm

14.1-14.7V @ 25C regulated output voltage

6mm (0.24 in) minimum length of brush

1.0-3.432 N (0.102-0.3501 kg. 0.22-0.7715 lbs) brush spring pressure

26mm (1.02 in) Slip Ring outer diameter

2.1 ohms Rotor (field coil) resistance


In my case, running two 400 watt amps, cranked up, but not maxed, at idle, my clamp meter indicated that the OEM alternator was at a 20 amp deficit at idle (which is suppled by the battery).

Well this is the explanation that I've heard the most. Thanks for the info!