Subs for under front seats.

travelship · 02-16-2007, 02:00 AM

I'd like to build some boxes for under the front seats, I don't want to lose the space under the rear seat. They would be .35 cf sealed. How much clearance is needed between the magnet and the rear wall of the box? Would a shallow 10 (eD SQ10) be better than a regular 8 (eD 9Kv.2 or Polk Momo)? Any opinions on the eDs or Polks?

**vipzach** · 02-16-2007, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelship

I'd like to build some boxes for under the front seats, I don't want to lose the space under the rear seat. They would be .35 cf sealed. How much clearance is needed between the magnet and the rear wall of the box? Would a shallow 10 (eD SQ10) be better than a regular 8 (eD 9Kv.2 or Polk Momo)? Any opinions on the eDs or Polks?

I have shaved a little off the wall before to prevent the sub from touching it, but you can have them almost touching. Some subs will have a rubber ring around the magnet, you can take it off to save a little room if needed.

Some of the other guys may have a different opinion, I am just telling you what I have done before.

TruckinTitan · 02-16-2007, 06:56 AM

One of the things I have done is figure out the diameter of the magnet and cut a second whole in the bottom of the enclosure and then used fiberglass to seal the circle that was cut... If you are using 3/4 inch MDF you can get a 1/2 inch or more of clearence for your magnet. Thats just what I would do...

travelship · 02-16-2007, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipzach

you can have them almost touching.

I wonder how much space is needed for airflow from the pole vent, I wouldn't want them to overheat.

travelship · 02-16-2007, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TruckinTitan

One of the things I have done is figure out the diameter of the magnet and cut a second whole in the bottom of the enclosure and then used fiberglass to seal the circle that was cut... If you are using 3/4 inch MDF you can get a 1/2 inch or more of clearence for your magnet. Thats just what I would do...

I like this idea, I was thinking about making the whole bottom fiberglass.

TruckinTitan · 02-16-2007, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelship

I like this idea, I was thinking about making the whole bottom fiberglass.

You could do that but would require more mat than if you just did the diameter of the basket/magnets... Remember Fiber glass is much stronger for curved surfaces... large flat area's require a lot more Mat and resin for structural strength.

travelship · 02-16-2007, 10:01 AM

If I do the whole bottom with fiberglass, I would replicate the shape of the stock box, with a tunnel to clear the heater vent so it would not be totally flat. But doing just the hole may be the way to go.

P-Dizzle · 02-16-2007, 11:02 AM

Some subs don't require any space behind the magnet. I recommend JL Audio 8W3V2 D2's. You can pick a pair up for about $250 shipped. These subs are not picky about their enclosure or the power thats running them. They don't require any room behind the magnet and work well in small enclosures. Memphis MC84 is another option. I have not heard the 8" eD's but I would assume the 9Kv would out perform the SQ10 in this application. Just about any 10" sub you use is going to suffocate in 0.35ft^3.

TruckinTitan · 02-16-2007, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelship

If I do the whole bottom with fiberglass, I would replicate the shape of the stock box, with a tunnel to clear the heater vent so it would not be totally flat. But doing just the hole may be the way to go.

Interesting... I don't have the fosgate system but you should be able to use the bottom of the box as a mold for the new box,.... just wrap it good in foil and painters tape... That would be a good base for the bottom of the box and then just extend the edges to the length you want your new box to be... Sounds like a good project...

travelship · 02-16-2007, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P-Dizzle

I recommend JL Audio 8W3V2 D2's. You can pick a pair up for about $250 shipped.

I had not seen these JLs. A little more expensive than the eDs or Polks, but may be worth it. I think the overall outside height of the box will a max of 5 inches. I plan to use a JL 500/5 that I picked up from CDUBYA. Can they handle the power? Will the 500/5 fit on a rack on the rear wall of an 04 Crew? I am also worried about rattles in the seat hardware and wiring, but I imagine that could be fixed.

P-Dizzle · 02-16-2007, 09:26 PM

eD's will be about the same price after shipping. They can handle that power easily. You better off having too much power than too little.

woodside · 02-17-2007, 08:44 AM

P-Dizzle, what amp would you recommend if I just wanted to run 1 JL Audio 8W3V2 D2 under the passenger seat, while putting the amp under the drivers seat?

P-Dizzle · 02-17-2007, 10:36 AM

If you already have the 500/5 use it, but will not fit under either seat. One 8" sub isn't going to do a whole lot of damage. Are yo sure you don't want an enclosure under the rear seat?

**tech12volt** · 02-17-2007, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodside

P-Dizzle, what amp would you recommend if I just wanted to run 1 JL Audio 8W3V2 D2 under the passenger seat, while putting the amp under the drivers seat?

let me say if all your wanting to do is add a little bottom end. If you are expecting some boom. Start over. 8s just do not get very loud in sealed enclosures. Its physics again. you really are not moving much air with that cone. as long as you you know what you are getting into 8s work great but. if you are expecting to hear 12s out of 8 its not going to happen . even if you could use an 8w7 8 l7 . unless you port them they are just not going to get very loud.

P-Dizzle · 02-17-2007, 11:13 AM

Or run 8 8W3's in a hatch back. Then they kill.