Well I dont have 12" but the room for them with the 5/8" mdf it gave me 12 3/4" at the front and the seat is still comfortable. but i am trying to find a way to raise the whole seat.
Wow those both seem kinda complicated. Can anyone simplify those down a bit? I should probably wait until does a complete how-to, but its frustrating not being able to lower my back seat because my subs will hit.
Wow those both seem kinda complicated. Can anyone simplify those down a bit? I should probably wait until does a complete how-to, but its frustrating not being able to lower my back seat because my subs will hit.
I'm thinking about just using 1"X1" square tubing and cutting it to fit between the bolts. May have to get longer bolts and using flat stock for the middle brackets to reach the angled holes.
I needed more than the rubber grommets, so I just stacked 12 washers on top of each other at each end of the seats and tightened them down with nylon nuts so the vibrations won't rattle them loose.
__________________ ESCORT SOLO S2 RADAR DETECTOR FOR SALE!!!
2008 PRO-4X Black on Black 4x4 w/ Leather package, Big Tow, and Utility Bed BlackJack
Mods: Performance: Superchips FlashPaq - 93 tune, 18" Magnaflow Muffler Suspension: PRG 1.5" Leveling Kit Wheels & Tires: 20x9 Ballistic Offroad Jesters, 33x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country M/T Audio: 2 12" RE Audio SE's, Sundown SAE-1000D amp, Tech12Volt Sealed Box Accessories: 6000K McCulloch HID Lows, 6000K DDM Tuning HID Fogs, 20% front tint, 5% in the back, and 5% on top of windshield, Hardwired Valentine 1, RBP 4.5" Black Exhaust Tip
Last edited by etalian2005; 06-11-2009 at 08:12 AM.
any got some pics of surface mounted door speakers.. I am noticing a shallow depth speaker will fit not leaving much choice if you look at crutchfield suggestions for 6X9's recently installed amp on factory speakers Blown naturally. need to replace considering surface mount for a wider range of speakers any suggestions? I have a Kenwood DDX514 and an Alpine MRP-F300 powering the doors tweets are powered by the head unit. kicker in the back. want to replace all door speakers and tweets need some ideas or pics of surface mount speakers POWEESE...
This takes advantage of the play in the seats and they still latch, but it really isn't a big deal if they don't. You can also get more airspace out of enclosure this way.
It would actually be good if the seat(s) could still lock down after the lift ... The seat when locked down will help the sub box not fly into you in an accident. Of course, maybe most others are securing their box to the Titan anyway; I've got mine in my truck sorta portable, just sitting there under the seat. It's 20"Lx20"W so it doesn't move side-to-side or front-to-back at all. But in an accident, and without the rear seat locked down it could gank me in the head.
I did the rear seat lift in my '05 King Cab. Cost less than $10. The seat's front edge height went from about 9.25" to about 11.5".
I've had several people sit back there, including me, & not one complaint. Actually it seems to me like it could've easily come from the factory this way.
At Home Depot buy:
- 2 packs of the 1-1/2" anti-skid pads (<$3/ ea.)
- 4 of their washers with checkout code "AGB" (I didn't check the size)
- 1 pack of the small washers (see next post for more pics) ($0.99)
- 1 pack of #10-24 x 1" round head slotted screws/ nuts (see next post for more pics) ($0.99)
- 1 pack of lock washers for the #10-24 x 1" round head slotted screws ($0.99)
Remove the four OEM rubber pads.
With a black permanent marker, blacken the edge of each of the four large washers all the way around, otherwise you'll see silver showing when you're done ... and we sure don't want that!
Sandwich a large washer and 2 small washers together between two of the anti-skid pads (see pics #3 & 4 in next post). The small washers are mostly to keep the big washer centered. The whole thing looks like an Oreo cookie: Yum. ... or a very small space craft.
Take a #10-24 x 1" round head slotted screws, put the anti-skid pad sandwich you made on it, put it in place, then put on a small flat washer, then a lock washer, then a nut and tighten it down ... Do this in all four locations. The washers & nuts are pretty hard to get on in the middle two locations, takes some small fingers to thread it on; Keep trying, you'll get it!
You could certainly use just one large fender washer in between the anti-skid pads, if you can figure out what size. I just used what I could find at HD.
Edit: You can use a different number of washers between the "sandwich" to change the thickness if you want your seats higher or lower than how mine turned out.
will this work on the crew cab as well? would like to fit a pair of jl w3v3 under the 60% side of rear bench. they will fit firing down (barely), but would like to fire them forward.
__________________
07 TITAN CREW CAB LE 4X4, LEVELING KIT, 18X9 CUSTOM RIMS, BFG RUGGED TRAILS, K & N COLD AIR INTAKE, TOW PACKAGE, WESTIN DRIVING LIGHTS, BULL BAR WITH OFF-ROAD LIGHTS, STEP BARS, AND TOO MUCH AUDIO EQUIP TO LIST.
will this work on the crew cab as well? would like to fit a pair of jl w3v3 under the 60% side of rear bench. they will fit firing down (barely), but would like to fire them forward.
Yes, this will work in the CC. I've done this mod to my truck. My question though is why would you want to forward fire them?
__________________ ESCORT SOLO S2 RADAR DETECTOR FOR SALE!!!
2008 PRO-4X Black on Black 4x4 w/ Leather package, Big Tow, and Utility Bed BlackJack
Mods: Performance: Superchips FlashPaq - 93 tune, 18" Magnaflow Muffler Suspension: PRG 1.5" Leveling Kit Wheels & Tires: 20x9 Ballistic Offroad Jesters, 33x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country M/T Audio: 2 12" RE Audio SE's, Sundown SAE-1000D amp, Tech12Volt Sealed Box Accessories: 6000K McCulloch HID Lows, 6000K DDM Tuning HID Fogs, 20% front tint, 5% in the back, and 5% on top of windshield, Hardwired Valentine 1, RBP 4.5" Black Exhaust Tip
Yes, this will work in the CC. I've done this mod to my truck. My question though is why would you want to forward fire them?
I will also be forward firing mine, as soon as I have time to make a new box that fits under my lifted rear seats. Here's why: If given a choice between aiming your speakers directly at your ears vs any other direction, why wouldn't you want to aim them directly at your ears? That's the most clear, accurate way, even at bass frequencies. Forward firing is aimed much closer to directly at your ears than down firing.
You'll surely still hear bass just fine in a down fired setup, but it will be at least somewhat restricted and affected by restricted frequency propagation and air flow due to the small space and your carpet.
Nothing wrong with down fired, I just prefer the better accuracy and efficiency of forward fired.
My 2 cents anyway.
Edit: tech12volt might have another opinion on this ...
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