RF head unit replacement problems

Ghostface · 05-14-2007, 07:02 PM

Guys I am sure there are posts on this but I having difficulty finding them. After going through 12 pages from an RF search getting a little buddy eyed. So now I ask.

So I replaced the RF HU and put in a new Kenwood HU. Now I have no sound at all coming from the speakers. Seeing that there are 3 connections that are not used in the aftermarket HU I assume I need to jumper something to bypass the RF sub.

Any tip/tricks to resolve this issue.
Thanx for the help.

**t22a80** · 05-14-2007, 07:11 PM

If you do a search you might be able to find the info but I'm not sure you can just replace the factory RF headunit without running all new speaker wire too!

bestatchess · 05-14-2007, 07:13 PM

Do you want to bypass the RF amp?

I think eakes did that with Molex pins

LOC placement for RF

Ghostface · 05-14-2007, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t22a80

If you do a search you might be able to find the info but I'm not sure you can just replace the factory RF headunit without running all new speaker wire too!

I tried doing a search.

Since I had no sound coming out of the speakers I assumed that the cause was due to 3 connectors not being connected from the stock HU. This does not make awhole lot of sense though because of the wirring harness having all the door speakers labled so I would think it would be OK.

When you guys replaced the RF HU did you have to do anything special?
I am going to run a tech12 box and Amp but kinda bothered by not having the amp hooked up yet and unable to get any sound yet.

eakes · 05-14-2007, 08:10 PM

The output of the RF HU goes to the Nissan amp located just above the brake pedal next to the firewall. The output of that amp feeds all the speakers. There is also an 'amp on' wire which you likely did not connect out of the new HU. Since the amp is not turned on, there will be no sound from the speakers.

The amp can be bypassed using the method outline in my post which Best referenced. That definitely works since I did it on my 04 and am in the process of doing it on my 06. If you cannot find pins that fit the socket you can tin the ends of some speaker wire and make jumpers for the bypass using section of that wire.

An alternate approach is to run new speaker wire from the new HU to the various speakers.

Ghostface · 05-14-2007, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eakes

The output of the RF HU goes to the Nissan amp located just above the brake pedal next to the firewall. The output of that amp feeds all the speakers. There is also an 'amp on' wire which you likely did not connect out of the new HU. Since the amp is not turned on, there will be no sound from the speakers.

The amp can be bypassed using the method outline in my post which Best referenced. That definitely works since I did it on my 04 and am in the process of doing it on my 06. If you cannot find pins that fit the socket you can tin the ends of some speaker wire and make jumpers for the bypass using section of that wire.

An alternate approach is to run new speaker wire from the new HU to the various speakers.

SWEET thanx for this info.
Just found the stock amp and in process of deciding the next course of action.

So on stock amp is it possible to run a power like from the stock HU. I assume it should be just a remote on signal but knowing that this is a stock setup sure it is some crazy hybrid setup. Probably going to try doing up some jumpers.

Thanks again

eakes · 05-15-2007, 06:45 AM

Assuming you used a Metra or Scorsche wiring kit to connect the new HU to the factory wiring harness, there is a wire in the kit that is identified as 'amp on' (on the Metra kit the wire is blue/white). If you connect that wire to the 'amp on' or 'remote on' wire from your HU, that should turn the amp on and you will get some sound.

Be advised that you will be feeding the input to the amp with the HU output which can provide much more power than the amp input can safely handle. Therefore, turn the volume to minimum on the HU when you start and advance it very slowly as the amp input will overload very quickly.

travelship · 05-15-2007, 07:03 AM

I think the remote turn on from the RF hu to the RF amp is a 5V signal.

Ghostface · 05-15-2007, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eakes

Assuming you used a Metra or Scorsche wiring kit to connect the new HU to the factory wiring harness, there is a wire in the kit that is identified as 'amp on' (on the Metra kit the wire is blue/white). If you connect that wire to the 'amp on' or 'remote on' wire from your HU, that should turn the amp on and you will get some sound.

Be advised that you will be feeding the input to the amp with the HU output which can provide much more power than the amp input can safely handle. Therefore, turn the volume to minimum on the HU when you start and advance it very slowly as the amp input will overload very quickly.

Currently have that Amp on wire connected to my remote on for the new amp. After fighting with the connector on the stock amp I for at least an hour I think I am done with that idea and going to run all new speaker wire. Hopefully by the end of the day I will have some sound.
Was hoping to only have to pull the doors once but seeing that the sound deading is back ordered at the moment figure it will be at least 1 week before it gets here. Thats what I get for thinking I could knock some stuff out early I guess. Oh well. The project continues.

Ghostface · 05-15-2007, 11:31 AM

Any tip or tricks to running the speaker wires through the door hinges. The conduit seems to have rubber grommets on both ends so don't see the speaker wire going through there easily and then bend at 2 90 degrees turns. Other thought was to cut the orginal wires at the speaker and then pull new wires through that way. Sounds simple but does not appear to work that way due to being unable to get the connection off from the stock amp. Plus figure they taped the crap out of it anyway.

eakes · 05-15-2007, 01:12 PM

Yes, removing the connector from the amp is a real pain - i spent about 30 minutes getting the one off my 04. The blue connector is the only one necessary to remove. It has a locking clip that has to be undone then a long (about 12 inches) 1/4 inch flat blade screw driver works to gently pry the connector loose.

To fish the wires into the doors you will need a pull wire. some have used a large ty-wrap to force through the gromet/tube. Start from the door side, slide your pull device through the tube, tape your new wire to the pull device and then pull it back into the door.

I would hesitate to cut the wiring because if you ever decided to trade the vehicle on another vehicle at a dealer, you would lose a lot of value for having non-standard parts.