Travelship's install - Page 3

travelship · 02-23-2008, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pogi69x

Oh if I just had the time and cash flow to do that, I've always wanted to sound deaden a vehicle. Is that dynomat your using?

No, it's eDead v1, 45 mil. Only $70 for 60 ft. I almost skipped deadening altogether, but thought I should do at least the floor and back wall while I had it gutted. I figure even a little is better than none. I did manage to get 2 or 3 layers over most of the bare metal and 1 layer over the factory stuff in the back half. I didn't get too crazy getting all the way to the edge of the floor or up any of the pillars. About an hour into it, I realized that I'd have to make some compromises somewhere due to lack of time and material. I'd probably need another 60 ft and another day to do up the doors, maybe someday...

Ok, I'm done with the mat. I have sore knees, busted knuckles, and black butyl rubber under my fingernails. Got the trans tunnel and under the front seats done, leaving only the front foot areas undone. This was my first time deadening, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I'm going to rest up and get a fresh start on it in the morning. I'm hoping to get the doors opened up so I can get all the wiring run, and get at least the carpet, console, and front seats back in so it's driveable. Maybe get everything done by next weekend.

travelship · 02-23-2008, 08:15 PM

I think it's good progress considering my amateur status and working solo. Have about 13 hrs total into it so far.

travelship · 02-23-2008, 09:30 PM

Here's what's going in.

JL Audio Cleansweep, JL Audio 500/5, Image Dynamics CXS64 front components, Image Dynamics CTX6 rear coaxials, Tech12volts single 10 inch enclosure and Sundown Audio SD-1v2 subwoofer, KnuKonceptz wiring. I hope it sounds as good as it looks.

titaninak · 02-23-2008, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelship

I think it's good progress considering my amateur status and working solo. Have about 13 hrs total into it so far.

Props to you for doing it yourself, i had a horrible experience for my install, i am going to install some comps/amp hopefully by mid summer. i would have helped if i lived nearby. good luck with that.

travelship · 02-23-2008, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by titaninak

Props to you for doing it yourself, i had a horrible experience for my install,

Thanks. Seems like I remember reading about that, a shop fried something, right? And Tech really stepped up to help you? Like I've said earlier, I'm tired of being disappointed by shop installs. When you diy, there is nobody to blame but yourself if something goes wrong, but I find immense satisfaction when things go well. My knowledge of theory is pretty strong, I just get a little hampered by lack of experience actually doing it. I just try to take my time and stay calm. If I get frustrated with something, I usually step back or move on to another part of the project for a while. It was a whole lot different doing this 15 years ago, the internet is a tremendous resource. I hit this site a few times today for needed info, found bestatchess' great thread about removing the center console. And referencing p-dizzle's work, of course. By the way diz, thanks for the advice on the baffles.

travelship · 02-23-2008, 10:00 PM

Ooo, I see t22 is on. Where you been? Come on, give me some encouragement here.

travelship · 02-23-2008, 10:04 PM

Now he's gone. Damn, no love from the AudioWhore.

travelship · 02-23-2008, 10:10 PM

Now I'm just post whoring my own thread, but Titantalkers are sort of family to me. The only ones I can talk to about this stuff, my wife sure doesn't want hear about it. lol

travelship · 02-23-2008, 10:12 PM

Ok, I'm done. Think I'll play poker for awhile, stress relief for me.

P-Dizzle · 02-23-2008, 11:02 PM

Keeps us fresh on the pics...

travelship · 02-24-2008, 12:10 AM

Here's a little problem I've run into. I chose the ID Chameleons because I've heard great things about them. The mid looks stout, and I'm intrigued by the 2 inch tweeter that gets down to 2800 hz. Thought they might blend well off axis. But the size is the problem. I made a mounting plate out of 1/8 in sheet plastic, but the grille won't quite pop on all the way because the tweet is so tall. 1/16 plastic seemed too thin, I need a thin stamped steel plate. Where am I going to find that? Or worse, try to make it. Then I look over at the bench and see the pitiful looking stock speaker. I hate those things, they are the biggest reason I broke down and decided to upgrade the RF system. The highs from paper cones are pathetic. Then it hits me, maybe I can cannibalize it. I'm going to cut the basket and magnet off, tear out the cone, and it looks like the IDs will drop right in. Kind of cool if an oem part can be sacrificed to get the new ones to fit. If they are still too tall, my back up plan is to just drop them into the dash with no plate. The hole is about 1/8 inch too big. They will sit there perfect and the grille fits, but you can almost work them through the hole. I'll get pics in the morning. I figure a little bit of double sided tape would keep them in place.

P-Dizzle · 02-24-2008, 04:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelship

Here's a little problem I've run into. I chose the ID Chameleons because I've heard great things about them. The mid looks stout, and I'm intrigued by the 2 inch tweeter that gets down to 2800 hz. Thought they might blend well off axis. But the size is the problem. I made a mounting plate out of 1/8 in sheet plastic, but the grille won't quite pop on all the way because the tweet is so tall. 1/16 plastic seemed too thin, I need a thin stamped steel plate. Where am I going to find that? Or worse, try to make it. Then I look over at the bench and see the pitiful looking stock speaker. I hate those things, they are the biggest reason I broke down and decided to upgrade the RF system. The highs from paper cones are pathetic. Then it hits me, maybe I can cannibalize it. I'm going to cut the basket and magnet off, tear out the cone, and it looks like the IDs will drop right in. Kind of cool if an oem part can be sacrificed to get the new ones to fit. If they are still too tall, my back up plan is to just drop them into the dash with no plate. The hole is about 1/8 inch too big. They will sit there perfect and the grille fits, but you can almost work them through the hole. I'll get pics in the morning. I figure a little bit of double sided tape would keep them in place.

Attachment 56895 Attachment 56896 Attachment 56897

Mount them with a back strap...

**t22a80** · 02-24-2008, 06:15 AM

Hey man,

Sorry I havent commented on anything I've been traveling and the only time I log on its on my phone. Luckily I found some wireless in my hotel room so I am on the laptop now.

The install looks great! You are going to town but you are doing it right. The only suggestion I have is.... Run all your wires and leave like 4 extra feet to all the speakers coiled up in the corners then put your interior back together before you tear into the doors. You'll be surprised how long it takes you to get it all back together. That way if you do run out of time at least you can drive your truck again. Doors are easy, I'd also suggest you order more deading now if you are thinking about doing your doors too, that way by the time you get into the doors it will be there.

Keep up the good work! You are right, the internet helps so much!

travelship · 02-24-2008, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P-Dizzle

Mount them with a back strap...

I thought about that, but they don't quite go through the hole from the top, they just get ****eyed. I don't think I can reach up from the bottom, I'll see though. The look pretty good sitting on top, I think a little tape around the edge of the hole would hold them. Slept late again (woohoo!), but I'm back on it now.

travelship · 02-24-2008, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t22a80

The install looks great! You are going to town but you are doing it right. The only suggestion I have is.... Run all your wires and leave like 4 extra feet to all the speakers coiled up in the corners then put your interior back together before you tear into the doors. You'll be surprised how long it takes you to get it all back together. That way if you do run out of time at least you can drive your truck again.

Thanks, I was just feeling a little lonely last night. The rcas and power cable will run down the sides of the hump, so they are the only ones I really need to get in before putting the carpet and console back in. I can do the speaker wires with the carpet in because they will go along the edge of the floor. I wouldn't need to drive the truck if the frickin' rain would stop and I could ride my motorcycle to work.