Brake service on 2005 Titan - do it myself?

kevink619 · 11-02-2009, 05:53 PM

Hi all,

I have a 2005 Nissan Titan and am wondering whether replacing the brake pads - assuming the rotors are in good shape - is something I could do myself? I've never worked in brakes before, but I feel that I'm fairly mechanically inclined. I change my own oil, have replaced an 02 sensor on my Titan already. And I've done numerous home improvement projects.

Is replacing the pads fairly easy? How about adjusting the parking brake? Any recommendations on aftermarket pads? When replacing the pads, are there any other parts I might need? Special tools needed?

Thanks, in advance.

Kevin

bestatchess · 11-02-2009, 07:25 PM

Excellent how to:

Installation of Frozen Rotors & Hawk Pads

The parking brake has two adjustments. The cable tension adjuster is an easy to reach nut by the parking brake pedal. IIRC, it takes a 10 mm deep socket.

The actual brake shoe adjusters are star wheels (like the old drum brake adjusters) at each rear wheel. There are no access slots, so you have to pull the rear rotors to adjust them. The parking brake uses shoes and the inside of the "hat" portion of the rear rotors forms the drum. There are some springs and retaining clips to deal with if you need to change the parking brake shoes. I used needle nosed vice-grips and channel locks and didn't have any problems. There are two reasons you might have to change parking brake shoes (1) you drive around with the parking brake on and (2) you had leaking rear axle seals at some point.

I like Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder bleed screws for one man brake line bleeding.

I also like to have spare caliper pistons, O-rings, and dust boots on hand so that I can rebuild a caliper or two w/o chasing parts if needed.

kevink619 · 11-02-2009, 11:43 PM

bestatchess:

Thanks for the info - especially the link.

Is there a simple answer as to whether I _really_ need to replace my rotors - in addition to the pads? If the rotors look and feel smooth, are they likely OK to keep using? My Titan has 57,000 miles on it.

Thanks,

Kevin

bestatchess · 11-03-2009, 05:05 AM

If your rotors meet thickness spec, no ridges or grooves, they could be reused. Many people break the glaze on the rotors with a sanding disk on a rotary tool when changing pads to assist in bedding the new pads. I don't think alot of 2005 OEM rotors lasted 57k w/o brake judder (steering wheel shakes during braking).

ridemaker · 11-03-2009, 05:31 AM

Do some searches on the internet, you can usually find package deals ( 4 rotors, 4 sets of pads). Frozen seem to be popular, Brake performance.com is where i got mine for under $375 for everything ( slotted/dimpled). Hardest part was getting the rear rotors off the parking brake pads on the inside, after that piece of cake. Dont forget, Lots of brake clean spray, and some cardboard underneath.

Pops · 11-03-2009, 06:02 AM

It's really easy to do yourself and BlackBeauty's writeup is nicely detailed. I have 64k on my odometer and my steering wheel was often shaking from warped rotors. I priced out turning them vs buying new and found some close enough to the cost of turning them from R1 Concepts to justify new ones for the front. If yours are still thick enough and aren't warped to shake the steering wheel then I'd leave them alone if I were you.

kevink619 · 11-03-2009, 02:21 PM

Thanks again, everyone.

bestatchess: I bought my 2005 Titan used and it had ~36,000 miles on it at the time. There is no metal scraping metal (yet), but brake performance has become sub-par lately. And the BRAKE and SLIP lights come on occasionally while driving. Since I'm at 57,000 miles, should I go ahead and replace the rotors anyway - even if they're not scored or rusted?

Thanks,

Kevin

**Kronos1965** · 11-03-2009, 02:45 PM

Replace your rotors.

I have Powerslot Rotors on mine and they've held up for 62,000 miles so far.

**Carbeaux** · 11-03-2009, 02:47 PM

I would. At that mileage, it would seem to be a matter of (very little) time before those OEMs will give it up and warp, whether you turn them or not. Even if you just replaced them with another OEM type (the least expensive route) it would likely save you the trouble of having to do it all over again a short while later.

kevink619 · 11-04-2009, 01:56 AM

Hi all,

Thanks for the help. I was able to change the front pads earlier tonight and it was fairly easy.

Next, I went to remove the real wheels so that I could change the rotors and pads - only to have the "key" socket for the McGard get mangled. :-( So, I wasn't able to do the rear brakes tonight. I'm hoping the Nissan dealer will give me a new key socket. And then I'm going to replace the wheel locks with standard lug nuts!

mjw357 · 11-04-2009, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevink619

And the BRAKE and SLIP lights come on occasionally while driving.

That's probably low brake fluid due to pad wear.

bestatchess · 11-04-2009, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevink619

Hi all,

Thanks for the help. I was able to change the front pads earlier tonight and it was fairly easy.

Next, I went to remove the real wheels so that I could change the rotors and pads - only to have the "key" socket for the McGard get mangled. :-( So, I wasn't able to do the rear brakes tonight. I'm hoping the Nissan dealer will give me a new key socket. And then I'm going to replace the wheel locks with standard lug nuts!

I have a set of sockets for my impact wrench that will remove most all of those locks. Some place like Discount Tire will likely be able to take if off easily.

Pops · 11-04-2009, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevink619

... And then I'm going to replace the wheel locks with standard lug nuts!

I'm using Gorilla Guard Locks, the notched design is much stronger than McGuard's little spiderweb type design. You can also register the code with them to order a replacement key or lug when needed.

Gorilla Automotive Products - Lug Nuts, Wheel Locks, Auto Security, Wheel Accessories

bestatchess · 11-04-2009, 08:03 AM

Interesting, I would probably have to cut that sleeve off with a chisel and air hammer to get those things off w/o the key.

Pops · 11-04-2009, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bestatchess

Interesting, I would probably have to cut that sleeve off with a chisel and air hammer to get those things off w/o the key.

I don't think it'll work easily at all, those sleeves are surprisingly stong, I tested one out with some vice grips while wearing leather work gloves and couldn't get the sleeve to budge. The grips would just vice down (using a rag to keep from scratching the sleeve) and the sleeve came out looking like nothing happened. When I cut my hand and had to have surgery to reattach everything, I went through PT and had my grip measured daily. I worked on it until it was back up to 75-psi with that hand so I'm not too scrawny and I was using both hands on the vice grips while readjusting tighter and tighter. Those sleeves seem pretty dadgumned strong IMHO.