observation on brakes - Page 2

rkawski · 07-25-2004, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juma

rkawski's recommendation looks good. I am gonna order them:

You will like them. It has made the pedal feel so much better. Before it was just mush. Now you have nice feedback from the pedal. Much like my other cars with SS lines.

FYI when you bleed the fluid the order is Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.

Speed-Freak · 07-25-2004, 08:20 PM

That line set in the pics looks really nice.

Sorry if I came off too stong before. Its just that Juma and others have posted many threads looking at all the different parts of the brake system looking for a "silver bullet". That one part that we all can change that will make the brakes pure heaven. Be it SS lines, pads, rotors, brake fliud, voodoo rum sacrifice.... whatever.

The "silver bullet" right now seems to be the 15" Stoptech big brake kit, but nobody seems to be ready to pony up the $2k or so it takes to get it, and I dont blames them. I am trying to figure out how I can get Nissan to foot the bill for it.

rkawski, you know your snot about brakes, it shows. Let us all know what you dig up in your parts testing. Perhaps a bunch of small changes can addup to better braking performance to make people happy, without having to drop $2k.

SF

juma · 07-26-2004, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speed-Freak

That line set in the pics looks really nice.

Sorry if I came off too stong before. Its just that Juma and others have posted many threads looking at all the different parts of the brake system looking for a "silver bullet". SF

must be another juma. I only said flex was the problem on one post. the only thing that we could ever do to affect the inherent flex was SS brake lines. Mine are on order (thanks for the tip rkawski).

On the rotor warp, my past experience is this is caused by overheating COUPLED WITH over torquing of the lugnuts. Jettech has figured out that less torque on the lugnuts will cure the warping. He recommends 85 pounds I think. I reset to 87 this weekend and mine are not warped presently. We'll see what happens.

basically, if you read the service manual, our current system has a lot of capability. I think it will work super with a set of SS brake lines.

rkawski, thanks for the pics of the install. any other tips beyond bleeding order? what was your line install order?

juma

juma

dhaessig · 07-26-2004, 09:04 AM

Does anyone have experience with ceramic pads? Are they available for the Titan?

rkawski · 07-26-2004, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speed-Freak

The "silver bullet" right now seems to be the 15" Stoptech big brake kit, but nobody seems to be ready to pony up the $2k or so it takes to get it, and I dont blames them. I am trying to figure out how I can get Nissan to foot the bill for it.

Yeah and you need new wheels too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speed-Freak

you dig up in your parts testing. Perhaps a bunch of small changes can addup to better braking performance to make people happy, without having to drop $2k.

Will do.

rkawski · 07-26-2004, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juma

On the rotor warp, my past experience is this is caused by overheating COUPLED WITH over torquing of the lugnuts.

The lug nut thing is new to me. I've not heard this before. Too loose and the wheel falls off though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by juma

basically, if you read the service manual, our current system has a lot of capability. I think it will work super with a set of SS brake lines.

Yes it has improved the feel of the brakes allot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by juma

rkawski, thanks for the pics of the install. any other tips beyond bleeding order? what was your line install order?

Doesn't really matter what order. I would suggest putting plastic wrap over your Master Cylinder before you start. This will help reduce the amount of fluid that will come out and prevent the MC from needing to be bled too. You can bleed with the rear wheels on if you have an angled line wrench. The fronts you *HAVE* to remove. You will need some tall jack stands. If you have 12, 14, and 17mm line wrenches that will help removing everything. Just make sure you have everything tight and leak free before you start to bleed and that will make things go quicker. Also you may need to reuse the two crush washers in the rear calipers over if they don't include them. I've requested they fix that and they are. The stock fitting was big and covered the washer so they didn't know their was one and the type of fitting wouldn't normally need a washer but for some reason Nissan has one.

rkawski · 07-26-2004, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhaessig

Does anyone have experience with ceramic pads? Are they available for the Titan?

Yes and no they aren't. Yet.....

GETSOMZ28 · 07-26-2004, 02:55 PM

I may have to get those SS brakelines! I have a liter of ATE superblue I am gonna put in my Z28 (and you thought the Titans brakes are spongy), but I guess I will do them both.

juma · 07-26-2004, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GETSOMZ28

I may have to get those SS brakelines! I have a liter of ATE superblue I am gonna put in my Z28 (and you thought the Titans brakes are spongy), but I guess I will do them both.

I bet the titan takes more than a liter to change the fluid and douche out the old sufficiently. juma

rkawski · 09-03-2004, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkawski

from Greg Vogel at Quality Nissan in Temecula California. I

Just wanted to give you guys on here an update.

1.) Greg V is now back at Mossy Performance.
2.) Contact info on Greg and the write up on the SS lines is now online and viewable at:
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/installs/titan/

rkawski · 09-12-2004, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhaessig

Does anyone have experience with ceramic pads? Are they available for the Titan?

Read my latest post in this thread:
Are they gonna fix brakes?

beano · 09-12-2004, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhaessig

Does anyone have experience with ceramic pads? Are they available for the Titan?

dhaessig..napa auto parts united pads front only no rears yet # CMX7918 80% less dust, improved pedal....beano

rkawski · 09-15-2004, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beano

dhaessig..napa auto parts united pads front only no rears yet # CMX7918 80% less dust, improved pedal....beano

Mossy Performance will have Front and Rear pads made up shortly. The pads will be far superiror then anything you are going to be able to get from Napa or any other parts store. These pads will have:

1.) Superior stopping power over stock
2.) Superior fade resistance over stock (so far I've yet to experience fade)
3.) Dusting reduced to accecptable levels
4.) No "warped" feeling
5.) Very rotor friendly
6.) Good to better then average pad life
7.) Minimal noise

pciley · 09-15-2004, 05:52 PM

Do I need any specialty tools, like speed bleeders or anything? I did SS lines on one of my quads and I was unable to get all the air out until I borrowed a pressurizing tool...

Also, is the lid 'off' the brake fluid resorvoir under the plastic wrap?

rkawski · 09-15-2004, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pciley

Do I need any specialty tools, like speed bleeders or anything? I did SS lines on one of my quads and I was unable to get all the air out until I borrowed a pressurizing tool...
Also, is the lid 'off' the brake fluid resorvoir under the plastic wrap?

Line wrenches will help. But other then that no specialty tools really. Doing the plastic wrap under the cap helps to keep the fluid from draining out onto the floor before you get the lines on.